UTV Poll - How do you haul it?

I have an idea in my head but I need your input

I recently bought my first one. It was delivered. Hasn't left the ranch yet, but the guy had it loaded front-forward and all he does is deliver them.

I typically install my window on the inside so I can tow it backwards.....

Usually load things by how they distribute the weight best on the trailer, doubt a utv is heavy enough to matter much.

depends on the trailer. Ideally I want to put the engine weight forward on the trailer and that means it goes on backwards. However, if I'm using a smaller trailer and it's a really tight fit, it's easier to drive it onto the trailer forward facing. To be honest, I haven't really noticed a difference in how the trailer handles in either direction. I will say I prefer to haul it forward facing because it's easier to clean the bugs off the outside of the windshield than to clean the bugs off the inside.

Bumper / tongue pull or gooseneck?

Depending on make & model a UTV can weigh from 550lb ( small youth model) to near 2000lbs (full size 4 seater/crew) then add on's / accessories increase weight from there.

The weight manufactures use in UTV / ATV specs is most often dry weight, addition of 10 gallons of gas adds about 60lbs & a little more than 70lbs for diesel and few lbs for various lubricants.

If bumper / receiver hitch, ball & ball mount type;
All pickups / receiver hitches should have a max tongue weight sticker or the information stamped into the hitch (receiver type) itself.
Foolish to exceed this, it is limited by hitch design and most importantly grade & amount of frame to hitch attachment bolts.

Many factory installed receiver hitches have a maximum tongue weight limit of as little as 300lbs to 600lbs, denoted in the ‘weight carrying’ column, and around 600 to 1250lbs in the weight distributing column.

Weight carrying is maximum tongue weight without use of a weight distributing type hook up.
Weight distributing = only when using a properly selected & set up WD hook up.
This has little to do with pickup GCVWR or the weight carrying or towing capacities listed on the door jam sticker.
All individual components have rated capacities & maximums that cannot be exceeded and remain 'legal' or considered 'safe'.

Empty trailer tongue weight + UTV + spare 5 gallon jug of fuel or ice chest or generator or a few sacks of corn, it is very easy to exceed maximum tongue weight rating towing any tongue pull trailer.

So, which way I would load a UTV onto a trailer depends on a bunch of variables.

Forwards or my windshield might blow out!

As long as its a tandem axle trailer you should be fine on weight distribution but avoid back loading to prevent swaying. Frontwards or backwards will determine whats installed on the front or back or the sidexside. Consider windshields or if something is the bed make sure its strapped.

Is there much weight difference between the front and rear end on UTV's? Seems like most of the drive line is under the seat near the middle.

i always load my Kubota RTV 900 front end to the front ... I've hauled it on several of my trailers (6'8"x12' single BP, 6'8"x16' tandem BP, 6'8"x20' tandem GN) ... no real reason other than I can tell if the windshield were to blow out/off, where if put on backwards I couldn't. I suspect the weight distribution would be fairly even but I would guess the rear would be heavier since the engine is in the back

Depends on each individual make & model, also how accurate you want to get.
A single seat Ranger is 'fairly' well balanced not saying 50/50, most high performance blaster type buggies like an RZR are considerably rear heavy, not exact but closer to 30/70.
Same goes for ATV's, some front heavy up to 100lbs worth, some fairly balanced, some rear heavy.

Like you said " Usually load things by how they distribute the weight best on the trailer."
And that is the best most folks can or will do and it works out fine most of the time. When it doesn't...

Exceeding the weight capacity of the lowest rated part/component of your overall towing system is not 'legal' or safe.
I could list each piece & part but I think you get the point.

Most pickups & SUV's without use of weight distributing hitch/hook up are limited first by the maximum tongue weight rating of the hitch mounted on the vehicle when towing with a receiver, ball & mount type.

Some use rating markings such as
TW - 500 TW = tongue weight
WD - 1000 WD = weight distributing
WC - 500. WC = weight carrying
WD - 1000
ST - 500 ST = standard
WD - 750
WDS - 1000 WDS = weight distribution & sway control
B - 300 B = bumper
R - 500 R = receiver
WD - 1000

Too much tongue weight doesn't always show up as rear end drop or sag.

My Kawasaki Teryx is a true 50/50 weight balance so it doesn't affect my handling at all. The winch in the from will butt up against the frame, whereas the trailer hitch on the back will hang up sometimes. Really just convenience.

Rustler you take your UTV loading pretty seriously

I pull my pro mule DX on a 20’ bumper pull w/6k tandem axles. Weight distribution on a utv, or even an early bronco is a non factor. I just keep most of the weight over or forward of the axles.

There probably can be. I would bet my Mule Pro FXT is way heavy in the rear. Engine is under the backseat and bed...mostly bed. I pull mine all the way up forward on a tandem trailer and the engine is right over the axles. Everything else is in front of them. Pulls just fine.

I don't haul any of mine very often.

Sorry, if you feel like I pooped on your thread, it wasn't my intent.

I have extensive working & professional consulting experience with DOT & FMSCA rules & regs.
Extensive working experience with 'standard' weight limits, weight distribution and load securement safety, and ultra heavy & heavy haul loads, jeep dolly & trunnion sets, various B train regs, over dimension loads of all types, permitting & permit load route planning, and all dimensions, configurations and weights requiring up to 17 axles to transport.
That means you must far more than just understand the capacities and limits of every single one of the pieces & parts and be confident enough in your knowledge, experience, training and capabilities to bet lives on it and be the responsible party.

What I take seriously is safety, especially when it comes to the roads we and all our loved ones share with some folks that don't know or don't care about how to travel safely with trailer & load. These people haul stuff every day in front of and all around - me, you, my wife, your wife, either of our sons or daughters or our grandchildren.

I won't apologize for trying to help folks understand things I consider simple & basic.

Before we got an enclosed trailer to haul race car and Mule, I pulled the Mule on a 5x10 utility trailer every weekend about 110 miles one way.
I pulled it with a Toyota Tacoma 4 cyl so I always loaded it facing the front as it was more aerodynamic - even opening the tailgate on the Mule made a difference...

Proper location on the trailer was very important with the light truck.
I measured the rear bumper to ground before loading and put the mule on the trailer and pulled forward until it sagged the bumper about 2" when ready to roll.
If I loaded more forward, you could really feel the drag with the 4cyl motor in truck.
If I loaded it too far to the rear of the trailer, it wandered all over the road and you had to be careful when correcting or it would get out of control pretty quickly.

where's the option for sideways?

You can only do that crew cabs.

Seen too many front windshields with rock chips & holes in them. I load backward if on my 20' utility trailer or drive straight on if I am hauling on one of my goosenecks simply because they are higher decks. Lots of flint rock in our area. Too much to ignore. If you don't have a windshield it really doesn't matter.

I drive a flatbed so I just drive up the ramps onto the bed, so forward.

A friend who works at a large motorsport company said to always pull them forward if weather looks rainy.
When pulled in reverse in wet weather, the wind drives dirt, dust and moisture into the dash and controls and can cause electrical problems down the road.

Forward is slightly more aerodynamic.

The engine is in the middle/rear, that puts the weight on the trailer, not the truck.

Frontward here. The windhshield manufacturer recommends it so it doesn't blow off. Without a windshield, i dont think it would matter one bit depending how you want to distribute the weight on the trailer.

Load it forward, drop a chain over the trailer ball, pull it taught in front with a tongue mounted boat trailer winch. Takes 5 minutes, tops & it never moves.

Forward in an enclosed trailer.

I pull mine on front forward and try to get the weight (engine) over the wheels of my 16' tandem axel trailer.

^^^^Does Bill have a brother?

Have loaded and hauled mine forward with window up several times. Does great and less wind drag