wheel gun for Alaska?

grandson thanks he will go to Alaska for a griz hunt...going to buy an appropriate caliber (NOT what I am asking about) what length of barrel? I was thinking 5 or 6" but I have no idea.

You didn't ask this, but it needs to be a consideration in what you buy. My opinion only.
Rate of Fire
Rate of fire is another criterion that isn’t on most hunters’ radar. Statistics vary, but most police officers don’t exceed a 50% hit rate. Even if you train regularly, you might not hit a bear on your first, second, or third shots, especially if the bear is charging. “If you think you’re gonna go out and shoot a moving target with 100% accuracy, you’re one brick short of a full wheelbarrow,”
A firearm with a high rate of fire will increase your odds of success by getting more rounds downrange in the space of time it takes for the bear to reach you.
Capacity
Using a gun with a large magazine capacity can also increase your chances of surviving a bear attack. If you hit the bear on every third shot, a five-shot revolver gives you one hit while a semi-auto holding 16 rounds gets you at least three

If you're going to carry with one in the pipe on a semi auto I agree with above.
If not I would go wheel gun if that is what you are comfortable with and experienced shooting.
Plenty of stories of guns dumping the mag on a gun they were not familiar with or not cycling a round into the chamber and trying to shoot.
Double action, 6 in barrel max, depends though if you're accurate with a 5 in barrel.

^^^^ good advice above too.
You should get some good advice on here.

Chest holster.

Caliber doesn't have to be a hand cannon, plenty of manageable shooting large calibers out there. Your ammo will be important.

https://www.diamonddcustomleather.com/collections/holsters/products/guides-choice-chest-holster

Whatever you get, carry it in this. I've had one a very long time, great product.

this is what I use as a chest holster

https://gunfightersinc.com/kenai-chest-holster/

barrel length equals access and deployment ease

Nice.

My chest holster as well, love it worth my 7.5”. Another factor is your ability to maintain or get back to your point of aim. Shorter the barrel, the more recoil, the harder and longer it will take to get back on target. This only gets more noticeable as you go up in caliber.

Most important thing IMO is shoot the gun you are most comfortable shooting. If you get to the point where you are shooting for self defense, you don’t want to be using an unfamiliar tool.

When I lived up there, I went through a lot of carry guns, but settled on a S&W 629 with the 4" barrel. It will be a little different if he is buying this specifically for one trip, but I eventually traded a number of "better" options for the handiness of the 4" 629. The best gun for the job is the one you have with you all the time. Not on your backpack, not back in the boat, but with you when you drop your pack and step off the trail a few feet to relieve yourself or sit down on a rock by the water to eat lunch. For me, the 4" was easy to ALWAYS keep with me.

Lots of good calibers out there. I went with .44 mag because I can shoot it a whole lot better than the hand cannons and I'd rather hit with that, than miss with the .500. Buffalo Bore makes some great hard cast bullets for this application.

Chest holsters are the way.

100% this ^^^^^

Best advice given above was, he should take what he is the most comfortable with, wheel gun vs semi. That make all the difference in the world.

I’ve been 3 of the last 4 years to Alaska and every guide I met carried a semi-auto in 10mm. They preferred the more rapid rate of fire and higher ammo capacity. Most were all 20-30 year olds. Maybe it’s a generational thing.

Yup. I got a 10mm that would work well with that holster in bear country.

I have both types of short guns. There are trade offs.

With a six shooter I just pull it and start shooting. But have only 6 bullets. And, in an excitable situation, I may not be too steady.

With the semi, I have to be cool headed in an excitement loaded situation. Why? Because I have to remember, under stress, to take it off safety. I have more pills but that might keep me from being cautious.

For home defense use a shotgun. Touch it off once and the bad guys crap their pants and think of a lot of other places they need to be.

I really prefer, and carry when I leave town, the Taurus Judge with a couple of 410 shells interspersed.,

I use a Glock G20 10mm. I wanted something with a lot of rounds, quick followup shots. If I need it, I wanted to put a lot of bullets on the target really fast. Having 5-6 rounds was not an option for me. I didn't want a huge hand cannon either, *IF* I needed the gun, I didn't want to have to draw a "joker" gun from a holster with a bear charging at me.

There was a guide in Alaska that famously used a 9mm with Buffalo Bore ammo that killed a grizzly at close range. You don't need a huge hand cannon to kill a bear, you just need to be accurate with your shot placement. Doesn't do any good having a 460 S&W magnum if you don't connect with the target.

You can always buy some Buffalo Bore for dangerous game. It will take them down if you hit your target where you need to..

When I lived up there carried 6 inch smith in 357
Today I would run a 10 mm 1911/2011

I like that, a lot.

A quality 4” double action revolver is a good combination of reliability, ease of carry, accuracy, and simplicity.

It rains there just about every day. No way I'd trust an auto pistol in those conditions on a charging bear. I always carry my 3.5 inch 44 Mag in the pic when I'm there.

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Personally I would go Glock in 10mm

I’ve shot some short barreled 44 mags ( 4” barrel ) and it was a bit difficult to recover for the second shot and be accurate. 10mm much better to recover and accurately place follow up shots, plus the ability to do a mag dump instead of relying on 5 or 6 shots.

I have been there and done that my guide suggested a short barrel 12 ga riot gun so thats what I took, I would highly suggest a 4in 44 also if it happens which it probably wont , double action is much more usable in the storm than a single action what are you gonna fan it, I always think what I heard ole man Jack Mcbride said to a customer that had just ask him which is better a single or double action pistol, He looked thru that guy and said just why do you think they started making double action pistols

While I was in Alaska I carried a Ruger Super Redhawk .44 mag with a 7.5 in barrel in a chest rig.

If concealability is not an issue, I personally like a 4" barrel. It just seems like a good balance of weight, controllability, speed out of the holster, etc.
The last time I went I ended up taking my 2" barrel .357 Mag just because it fit right in the chest pocket of my waders and fishing the rivers was going to be 95% of my potential bear encounters.

Bond Cyclops in 45-70. If you miss, your hand will hurt so bad you'll want the bear to put you out of your misery.

Or an FN510...22 rounds of 10mm

Truth. When Larry Kelly was trying to get a Kodiak bear with a .44 magnum, he emptied his revolver into a bear that broke into their cabin. His guide killed it with a rifle. Kelly was using hollowpoints, and they didn't penetrate the hide and fat layer. He switched over to either FMJs or solids (can't remember which), and killed his bear.

I also remember a fairly recent study of bear attacks/shootings. A large number of the bears were killed or driven off with a 9mm pistol.

Went to Kodiak, Afognak, and Raspberry Islands this past fall-- after seeing those bears up close any handgun will feel inadequate.

HOWEVER- myself and a buddy (hunting DIY- deer) and the guides that I did see-- all were carrying Glock 29 or Glock 20 10mm with hardcast (either handloads or buffalo bore ammo).

Another underestimated part of having a semi auto-- the pistol light. If you are hiking in the dark either into or out of the bush, camping overnight or maybe skinning a critter-- having that light on your pistol makes a HUGE difference if you need to engage.

A glock 29 with a TLR7 gives you double the capacity of a revolver, much easier to draw and engage (same format as what you likely carry day to day), same or lighter weight, lots more options for good kydex holster (mounted on belt, bino harness, across the chest, etc) and ability to have a light.

Lastly- don't discount bear spray- we carried that as well.

I use Buffalo Bore 44 Mag 340 grain hard cast flat nose at 1,425 fps. Compare that to their 10mm 220 grain hard cast at 1,200 fps and there really is no comparison.

Everything I’ve read (that I trust) said hard cast bullets for that very reason

4" so as not to be too cumbersome

My alaskan side arm is a Ruger blackhawk in .44

good luck with his hunt

Several years ago a long time guide in Alaska said his heavy like 200+gr hard cast bullets with a large meplat were the choice for him and his daughter. He wrote the way to stop a bear on the spot is a CNS hit with enough to penetrate head or neck and most bullets are not up to the task on the neck from a handgun. They both carried 6 inch barreled 357s and had both used them to stop bears. He said they preferred the 357 over larger magnums due to recoil and faster recovery for additional shots if needed plus something to the effect of you could be mauled or killed by a dead bear that just doesn't know it yet.

what I used when hunting hogs

thanks every one, lots of good info, this kid ( not a kid any more ) made marine sargent in 31 months, set school record in hight school wrestling, undefeated two years, I don't worry about him getting proficient with any weapon, personally I like the idea of the chest holster, and a short barrel shotgun. again, I really appreciate all the sincere comments, it was on my bucket list, but the wore out back said NO

When I graduated college, my Dad took me on a caribou hunt, so we wanted to carry pistols for bears. Our guide told us whatever caliber you carry better start with at least a 4, lol. I carried a .45 LC in a chest rig, and my Dad a .44 mag in the same chest rig.

There's a dealer in Waxahachie who a year or so ago was selling Ruger Bisley Super Blackhawks in 454 Casull for about $795. I couldn't resist. Really top of the line I use the 300 grain loads.

just got through reading 10mm vs 44mag, I was surprised, 44mag

By a substantial margin.

Like I said earlier, there's really no comparison.

No comparison in energy- but there's a few good reasons already listed that many are making the switch to semi 10mms

If you get into an argument with a bear he will not give you time to think it through. You will react based on your training.... less the pucker factor. So many of us get guns that we cannot effectively train with. If you cannot train through 100 rounds in a couple hours then your gun has too much recoil, blast, weight or whatever. Can you do it twice a week for a month before the hunt to be very fast, very sure and very accurate? Have you trained in rain, wind, twilight, etc? Bears do not offer fair fights.

IMO the correct answer is the most powerful handgun that you can master the above with. I have a nephew who is virtually recoil proof so his selection will be a LOT different than mine. I don't care what you pick but my choice is precisely a G40 with 200gr hardcast bullets. For me, it meets the above requirements better than anything else. The G20 is a second but the G40 eats recoil like my grand kids eat candy. Fast followup shots are much easier.

Edit to add... Couple guys mentioned using 6" 357 revolvers. With the above criteria these are a near perfect solution.

While hunting, I wear a Glock 20 in 10mm. 200 gr XTP alternated with 200 gr FMJ.

I can shoot a Glock better than I can shoot a revolver.

I'd take the same rig to bear country.

(I need to add the TL7 to it.)

Ruger Alaskan in 44mag or 454 casuall in a Alaskan guide holster as been suggested.
If 44mag is not enough the 454 casuall 250 grain to 300grain @ 1400 to 1500fps ought to be.
I carry the 44mag for night hunting pigs .sent it off and had big dot trinium front sight installed.
Just put the dot on what you wish to whack.
It's a great snubby

I go to Alaska yearly to hunt with my friends in Ketchikan. I carry a Colt Delta Elite 10mm with Buffalo bore hard cast bullets. I used it on a 400# wounded black bear a few years ago and it dropped it in its tracks. I had shot a good boar on a tide flat with my 300wm. It ran into the undergrowth. We went in to look for it after a while and I saw it lying about 30 feet from me. I yelled at my buddies that I had found it, to my surprise it wasn't dead. It stood up and started moving at me. I didn't have time to shoulder my rifle. I pulled the delta and hit him with 5 out of 6 rounds. The last one in the head. He piled it up.

To me it's more about having a gun you are comfortable shooting than it is anything else. it took a hit to the computer to put it down. Bears can soke up body shots and keep moving.

Bases on the OP's last post, I think he made the obvious best choice.

Well if the OP wants to hear something objective rather than subjective he can look here: https://www.outdoorlife.com/guns/best-bear-defense-handguns/

The author has more time in alaska and killed more bears than probably anyone in this thread... combined. If it's TLDR; two camps (10mm semi and big bore revolver)-- he provides the pros and cons to each and then his personal choice (hint: its small, semi and 10mm... with a light)

Doesn’t anyone carry a 12 gauge with a short barrel and tactical stock? Are slugs not a good bear stopper?

Key word there.

A pistol goes in a holster. Everyone is already carrying a rifle. Who's gonna carry two long guns?

Vaild point, hopefully his recoil management and training is at your level. I know mine ain’t but also why I downsize calibers.

OP no expert but even a black bear in shoulder with 300wm/rum/wby etc and its going a good ways, you pop mid body which is both lungs with a 139 gr 6.5 MM bullets its normally done in under 3 seconds. Id me more worried about rounds on target then ft/ lbs of energy.

What ever you get him, get him 300 plus rounds to send down range before he goes

Seems like there’s a misconception that there’s going to be pistol shots put on a brown bear at some kind of distance. In a bad situation, everyone is going to use their rifles and that is correct. The pistol is just in case everything else has gone horribly wrong.

no misconception here, why I mentioned barrel length and draw ability in first post. my point was you arent dropping even a blk bear DRT with a 300mag if it is not or spinal or brain, but its not hard to get to the organs.

pull your service pistol and let me know how much quicker and more accurate you are then with big wheel gun at 8-10 yards. This being general statement, you spent a lifetime shooting for or in high-stress situation so you are what I personally would call the bar. Very few would get even 1/50 of your performance with either weapon but most would be closer with your service pistol.

Point was only way you are dropping a Bear DRT is spine or brain. Its been proven capacity and accuracy with hard cast in any 38 cal or larger including 9mm +p is adequate.

what ever he gets him, I hope he spends lots of time getting very handy with it before hand

A grizzly can run up to 35 mph which translates to 17 yards per second. Surprise a grizzly at 20 yards, you basically have just over a second to kill it or make it turn. Surprise a grizzly at 30 yards and you have about a 1.75 seconds to kill it or make it turn. You get the idea.

Folks need to focus more on speed of their draw and fast accurate (80-90%) CNS shots rather than bullet diameter and its velocity. A hand cannon that can level T-Rex is worthless if you cannot draw it and get an accurate shot off before the bear is on you.

If you can draw your handgun of choice and get 80-90% CNS hits consistently in 1-2 seconds, then kudos. If not, keep practicing and/or drop down in power.

-----

A light is nice as you may not be able to get a head-lamp in play. Do get one better suited to the environment (ex: Streamlight TLR-7A) rather than one for the house (ex: Streamlight TLR-6).

A laser trainer for your rifle and handgun, combined with a charging grizzly target, is highly effective at least for significantly reducing "draw" times and increasing first shot CNS hits.

Yessir, this right here. I'll take 15+1 over 5 or 6 every time.

I've got a friend that in the early 2000s worked for the highway department in Alaska. They mandated employees carry a Glock 20 for Bear defense and I believe they used full powered loads that were full metal jacket.

What will work? The State of Alaska has (maybe still does) publish a list of handgun cartridges used to save yourself in a Grizzly/Brown bear attack. Folks use what they have so cartridges like 9mm, 45ACP, etc. account for the majority used. So use what you have. The 454 Casull is maybe 50- 100% more recoil than the 44 mag but either has been used a lot to earn their "Okay". I would go with a revolver over a semi-auto. I know if you are a "good" shooter you don't limp wrist a round and get a stovepipe jam- and all that thing- but a revolver always works and you can use a flat bullet versus what works best in a semi-auto. If the revolver has a 6 1/2" or longer barrel it ought to "point better" etc.
You-tube has some filmed attacks. Pretty darn scary. Both the 44 Mag and 454 Casull suddenly seem sort of "not enough", the last thing you are going to be worried about is recoil.
I would opt for stainless teel, given the wet weather in Alaska..

Ruger Alaskan 454/45

FPS/group size 25yards

HSM 325gr Lead WFN Gas Check Bear Load——————-947fps, 3.7”
Hornady 240gr XTP Mag—————————————–1495fps, 3.4”
Hornady 300gr XTP Mag—————————————–1358fps, 4”
HSM .45 Colt Cowboy 250gr RNFP——————————693fps, 3.5”
SIG SAUER .45 Colt 230gr V CROWN—————————702fps, 2.5”


My Personal Alaskan is a 44mag / with aftermarket tritium big dot night sights . If i were going to Alaska i would just carry it with a heavy cast bullet 44 mag 300grain .
the Alaskan is pretty accurate for a snubby . I had it at the range yesterday - shooting 240grain & head shooting a B2 target @ 25yards pretty easy . For me 44mag would be fine. but the 454/45 takes it to another level .I know i can control the 44mag Alaskan with 300grain SJFP- not sure about 454 & 300plus grain bear loads.

Someone years ago told me a story, and I know it's not true, but funny all the same. He said a guy from the lower 48 went fishing in Alaska and had a 44 mag on his hip. One of the old locals struck up a conversation and mentioned the revolver. He said, "Whatcha got there?" The fisherman replied, "A 44 magnum". Local said, " I guess you've got that for the bears? Can I give you some advice? Shave off the front sight." The fisherman said, "Why? So I can draw it out quicker?" The old Alaskan said, "No, that way it won't hurt so bad when that bear shoves it right back up your ###!"

My bush revolver is a Freedom Arms 454 Casull loaded with Buffalo Bore Bullets in a chest holster.

Good Luck!

We were sitting in the cabin in Alaska after a long day of hunting and i asked the one of the owners of the outfit we were hunting with why he carried a pistol.

He said that if a bear was going to take a horse out as they rode along it would take out the first horse in the group. He said that he rode first in the group as his horse was the lead horse. He said when the horse left, that the horse was going to take his rifle. He said that the pistol was to get the bear off him, not distance shooting.

His pistol then was carried in totally enclosed holster. At one time alder had partially cocked his pistol and the hammer dropped on a live round and shot him in the leg. He said he was happy it was him and not his horse which was shot. He said his Father would have killed him for killing a horse being stupid.

In August 2009, Greg Brush from Soldotna, Alaska, was walking his dog when an Alaskan brown bear charged him. Drawing his .454 Casull Ruger Alaskan while rapidly backpedaling, he fired three shots in quick succession into the bear; followed by a fourth and final shot. The fifth round failed to discharge due to an ammunition failure interfering with the cylinder rotation. The animal was stopped 10 feet (3.0 m) beyond Brush's original starting position.[

When I moved up there, I was told 44 mag was the minimum. I bought a smith and wesson 460 mag. It was like carrying a concrete block around. I sold it and got a customized Ruger in 454 that I carried for 2 years. It was a great gun. I wish I would have kept it, but someone offered me more than I had in it and I sold it. Last two years I carried a Glock 20 with 200 grain hardcast.

No doubt in my mind, if I was going back up today it would be a semi auto 10mm. Most likely a Glock or Springfield. 200 grain hardcast lead in a chest rig. Some say a 9mm is good enough. Hardcast lead is a must. Simply Rugged, Diamond D, Gunfighter's Inc. chest rig.

This is a thread where Phil Shoemaker discusses downing one with a 9mm. Hard Cast lead it the key.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/11241792/all/Bear_protection:_9mm,_40_S&

Okay, I don't get really good groups with my Ruger 454 Casull. Maybe 3-4" at 25 yards. Well it kicks hard so at the target range I load 3 live and 2 duds and rotate the cylinder- to make sure I am not flinching. Some years agao I had my S&W M-29, 44 Mag at 100 yards and shot a 4" group off sand bags- only time I did that but it made me a big fan.
In any event, is the 44Mag a more accurate round than the 454 Casull? I thought it was just my shooting.

I was 19 and went to Juneau, while there I bought a book called, "Alaskan Bear Tales". It was divided into 3 sections. #1. Stories that were factual. #2. Stories that may have had some truth, but could have been embellished. #3. Stories that were more than likely just made up stories. I need to find that book. I have it around here somewhere. But it is a very good read.

On the 454 casull, mine is very accurate. The friend that I bought it from was shooting 390 grain hard cast bullets traveling over 1400 fps. When he shot it, the gun would recoil up and twist at the same time. He gave me one round and I told him that was a lifetime supply of that load for me. I still have it also.

I wish I still had my model 29, paid 350 for it out the door at walmart the day i turned 21, I sold it to buy diapers when times were hard.

A Practice Drill to Drop a Charging Grizzly
No matter what gun you decide to carry in the backcountry for bear protection, practice taking down a charging animal in a do-or-die situation.


Setup the Bear Drill
Set up four to six targets in a staggered pattern, placing the farthest 50 feet downrange and the closest at 5 feet. Also, alter the height at which you position the targets, placing them between 2 ½ to 4 ½ feet above the ground.

You can use IPSC targets or cut out 8-inch circles of cardboard. In either case, put a 2 ½-inch black spot in the center of the target. (This is the bear’s nose, a useful aiming point.)

How to Shoot The Drill
Move your eyes ahead of your gun and learn to time your shot so the trigger breaks the moment your front sight settles on the black dot. Don’t start and stop the gun in a jerking motion— keep it moving smoothly.

Use a shot timer (you can download one for free to your smartphone) and start with your firearm at the low ready. Set the timer for 3 seconds. At the sound of the buzzer, bring the gun up to the farthest target and take a sight picture. Whether you pull the trigger is up to you, but either way, quickly transition to the next target and then the next. Keep the gun moving in a smooth back-and-forth motion. Before the 3 seconds are up, you should have taken a sight picture on each target, finishing on the closest one.

One clean hit is better than a bunch of misses, but if you’re using a handgun, you want to try to get at least three good hits in that time frame—though the more, the merrier.


******** I was thinking after running the targets a few times - Start with back to targets - handgun in whatever holster you carry- have friend with timer to call "BEAR" at what ever time he decides & see what kind of time & hits you get -assuming timer is started as soon as "Bear is heard" ********** Just a thought Hetman

Hope I never get charged but, I've wondered if you should crouch down so your line of fire is the same as the bear. If you are standing and aim for the nose- might end up father back on the bear.

Dont know - under duress I think i would just be hammering away & wishing i had NOT let my IDIOT friends talk me into hunting Kodiak Bears !!!


Just Think how pissed off that BEAR is going to be after shooting his nose off!!

This looks like a great drill!!! Will try to set this up and run it when I have some time--- seems like a fair and accurate drill.

As previously mentioned draw times are probably VERY important and I'd love to see what folks are getting for those with the various set ups (semi auto in kydex on belt or chest vs the big wheel guns in whatever type of holster they've got).

Again- the scenario dictates the reaction right? But I think training for the worst case scenario (backpack on, rifle slung and pistol holstered) this drill would be very telling of overall engagement capability.

Where exactly do you aim on a charging grizzly?

If someone goes to Alaska to hunt bear, they are going to have to have a guide. Would seem best to ask the guide.

On barrel, a longer barrel helps the shooter. I'd always go with a 6" barrel if you are going to be walking around, etc. The only time the 6" is a problem is if you are continually driving, getting into and out of a car. Stainless steel, I would never use anything else even though I have guns in both blued and stainless.
GRIPS. There is a middle size called magna (I think) Most folks think it makes recoil feel worse but the width is about equal to the magnum (oversize) grips and in my opinion a grip that fits your hand is what helps reduce felt recoil. Finally, sights. I like an orange insert in the front blade- shows up well under all light conditions.

Serious pucker factor if that bear gets to 15' and has not been stopped yet.

When I first moved here (Alaska) 30 years ago I immediately bought a 7.5" Super Redhawk in 44 mag. Like some others have mentioned, I eventually found it too heavy and moved to a 3" 629 Trail Boss I load with 320 grain hardcast at ~ 1,100 fps. That said, I've since done a lot of research on bear defense encounters with handguns and as as often as not, now carry a full size 9mm with 147 +p hardcast also at ~ 1,100 fps. All else being equal, round for round, my 44 is easily more effective than the 9mm, but as others have mentioned, the two platforms aren't really round for round comparable; a lot of other variables come into play. Also, if you read a lot of documented bear defense encounters where handguns were used, it isn't always killing the bear that ends the encounter. Pretty often it's putting shots on target that change the equation, though obviously killing the bear is preferable. From the cases I've read, everything from 9mm up has been pretty much 100% effective on grizzlies and blacks when the shooter could make hits. The 44 has the most successes, but it's also used the most. Here's a link to a lot of documented cases:

https://www.ammoland.com/2021/06/ha...ks-104-cases-97-effective/#axzz7OqMMNaDn

In the 30 years I've been here, I've spent countless hours hunting and hiking in bear county, have killed better than 50 black bears and grizzlies, including a couple of grizzlies and a black bear right out my front or back door, but have never needed a handgun for bear encounter (yet). All that said, like some others have said, I'd suggest considering weight and how fast and reasonably accurately you can shoot whatever platform you decide on and load it with hardcast bullets.

https://www.ammoland.com/2022/04/update-of-pistol-defenses-against-bears-123-cases-98-effective/

According to this compilation of bear defense shootings, just about any caliber will work.

44mag or bigger has my vote !!

Of these 20 cases, 15 involve a single, known, pistol caliber. Here are the current numbers of cases for those calibers:

9mm – seven documented cases, all successful
.38 Special – four documented cases, three successful, one failure
.357 magnum – nine documented cases, eight successful, one failure
.40 S&W – five documented cases, all successful
10mm – six documented cases, all successful
.44 magnum – 37 documented cases, all successful
.45 Long Colt – 2 cases, successful, this includes the .45 Colt/.410 revolver.

Thanks for sharing, Steve. Cannot argue the stats, although I'm surprised .45 ACP isn't on the list. However, while I remain in the "bigger bullet lets more air out" camp, I'll stay with the biggest round that I shoot well and have the most chances for success. Until they make a reliable semi-auto in .44 Mag, I'll stay with my 10mm pushing 15+1 rounds of 200gr bear pills if I ever find myself in that country again.

Incidentally, I took my grandfather fishing in Alaska back in the summer of 2001 and we did a couple days trolling for Kings on the Kenai. Every couple of hours, we'd hit the bank for a pee break and I remember one time I was taking a wiz and looked down to my left and found a huge pile of moose scat. I thought that was pretty cool. Then I looked down to my right to find a HUGE pile of bear scat. I finished my business with a quickness and got back to the boat, wishing I had brought my 629.

My question is with the 8 shot Redhawk in 357 mag available, do you carry that with the extra 2 shots or do you stick with the 6 shot 44 mag? I'm in the camp of bigger is better, but you can't argue with the success of the 357 mag. Would 8rds of hard cast from Buffalo Bore work just as good? I didn't read anything about bullet weight in either article.