Please critic my 4x6 deer blind layout. Plans will follow later.

Well I have put some ideas in AutoCAD on a 4x6 blind. I would like some comments positive/negative alike to finalize my design. Once I get my final design done, I will post my design and email to whomever wants it. It might not fit everyone but it should be easily modified if someone wants to.

This layout is built in separate pieces for final assembly to be done at hunting location. But does not have to be done that way. Doing it this way requires a few more 2x2 furring but that is about it. The roof overhangs the door opening about 2 foot. Not much more in materials and 3 pieces wide of tin does not cover so mine as well use to maximize the materials.

If the stand gets elevated I plan to build a 2x4 (can be bigger) porch and ladder to required height that would attached separating and form a porch, depending on type of stand required. If ground blind then it just give a little more protection out of the weather when getting in/out the stand. A porch would make entering safer (in my opinion). Nothing like trying to open the door with object in hand. Plus since I will have my daughter hunting on occasion anything that will make hunting easier/safer the extra expense is not a factor. If I know it is going to be elevated from the beginning I might just make the floor framing in one piece.

The widows would be cut from the wall material and then smaller openings cut in the cut-out piece and covered with Lexan to allow you to hunt and leave the windows down on those cold windy days. They would hinge up to the inside so that you could build a shelf below and not interfere with the window operation.

is this going to be a build at home and take to the lease or you making it to come apart to travel? one other question. on the 6 foot sides, are you running the plywood horizonal or vertical? just wondering about a backer where the seams meet.

Build at home in shop. Tear apart, then reassemble at lease.

Plywood on 6 foot side will be horizontal. Seam would be at bottom of window. reason for the extra 2x2 furring beside the widows to tie the seams together.

Just a thought but I would add braces to the roof and slope the roof the other way, i prefer the roof slating forward instead of back so you don't have to worry about door clearance.

More I look at it looks like its side entry with extend roof on that side??

Personally like the door in the back, not a huge fan of big windows in the back either, unless you can put up curtains, to keep you from getting skylighted

I usually prefer wider windows so I don't have blind spots in the corners. I feel like every time I lean over to see around the corner, I could get busted.

just a ideal. in the blind i am working on and from experience. on the long sides, if you split the longer windows. that would give a window and shooting spot for you and another one for your daughter. that is unless you or your daughter is left handed. it will keep yall from having to shift around in the blind to get the shot or lean to look out the window.

Yes it is side entry. It is kind of hard to tell in 3D views after I look at it. A back door could be done and keep a small 2x4 porch just the same? But I might not have head room for roof extention. Reason I went side was to be easier to extend the roof and it not be to low for the porch area sloping back. I definitely don't want to hit the tin if it ends up a ground stand. Also I would put a curtain in back or possible leave out the Lexan and only open to let in cross breeze on hotter days.



Good point. Probably would be better to split the windows like pafree suggested. And would allow me to strengthen the center section making it stronger.



Good point and noted.

These are reasons why I posted for critique. I drew this up in a couple hours and easy to change and modify from this point. A lot harder when built. As a mech. designer I listen to engineers all day so not going to hurt my feelings a bit.

I'd put a little more support under the floor, especially if its going to be off the ground very high. Would also use pressure treated material on the bottom if its going to be on the ground. That and split the windows would be my only changes.

Cup holders! Shelf over the windows?

Sorry, don't have anything else to add that has not already been said at present.

After looking at it again I might also add a brace under the windows on the 6foot side to keep the window frame from sagging over time. Then again I always overbuild everything

After I split the windows I will most likely run a 2x2 vertical top to bottom in the center. and move the windows closer to the sides. May have some time tomorrow to do a little revising to the 3D model.

I will add that I don't have all bracing shown. I figured I would add some corner braces and other misc. braces after I get the main idea down. Plus when I start building I will be able to see if things are weak as I go.

I always build mine with windows hinged at the top. When you open them, just have them open enough to see what you need to see. With that, they should be at a downward angle. When looking up from the ground, the shutter behind you being partially closed will keep you from being backlit.

Is there really a purpose/need for the extended roof. If you elevate it and have a porch with no railings that seems like it will be as much as a hazard as crawling up & down the ladder. You know, with the wind blowing or if you just get a little off balanced, splat! One tip I learned from experience is to make sure you get the window height just right, my bro in law was quite adamit about the height of my windows and I knew better but he convinced me and well, let's just say I tore the whole dang thing apart to do it over again.

At the base on the six foot side use 8' runners so they stick out on each end. Cut the bottom end at an angle, like a sled, use a hole saw to put a hole thru the ends and then you can pull it around with a 4X4 to relocate it as needed.

Did that make any sense?

I have a 4X6 that bolts together also. I found that triangle shelves in the corners attached to both sides stiffened things up considerably once it was bolted together.

Roof extension is not needed part. Problem is the tin covers only 24" and 4 panels are needed to cover and overhang the sides some. So instead of an extra 4-6" overlap on all pieces I figured I would just overlap normal and extend the rest over the doorway. Same cost for tin. Just a little more for the 2x4 brace.

As for porch which should be better called a "landing" I just think having a flat surface to walk in the doorway would be safer than climbing in directly from the ladder/stair. And I did think of putting up a rope rail on the ladder and could do the same at landing edges. I did this for my daughters tree fort on her slanted ladder and it has helped a lot.



Good idea on corner shelves. And the extensions could be used to help support a landing if needed.

Here are modified images. I lowered the windows to be cut from the bottom horizontal piece. After looking closer the windows were to high unless maybe I was shooting at birds & squirrels. But easy to confirm once I start framing.

Still a few braces probably not shown and landing overhang is still there but may or may not be done. Still thinking about that. May just center the roof and overhang all 4 side the same. This would help protect the wood better from the elements. Moved the door to one side to minimize number of braces and should be stronger being at the corner instead of the middle. If I put in a small window next to door either long side could be front or back giving you equal shooting from all 4 sides.

The windows are WAY TOO BIG. You need to have some blind spots so you aren't in constant view, IMO. Also, I'd add a small porch, maybe 2 feet out. It is really handy. I would probably frame over the window too.

"Windows" Back to the old cliche "Does size matter?"

As for why I don't have anything above the windows is so the window cut out and wall are flush for the hinges. If I frame in above I would have to frame at least the top of the window so the hinge works correctly. Not saying it is not a bad idea just would require more framing.

If I had windows as big as that picture. I would just open one side, or get some curtains.

I put my windows (bottom) at 41 inches, that might be a little high if it's an elevated stand. You might check them around 39". Anybody else have opinion on height?

We always go 38" to bottom of window. Low enough for youngsters, and ok for the adults. No framing above the windows may create warping issues over time. Great looking plans, you won't regret the landing/overhang.

38" is what I have them at to the bottom on the last images. And after a suggestion in another thread I am thinking of framing the windows with 2x2 and cutting a grove in the center of the 2x2's to hold the windows. Then I would need to frame top of windows as well. But agree it would increase strength long term.

A little slow here at work so added an optional base (6 foot tall) and 2'6" x 4'-0" landing. Set the landing down about one step to make it attach easier and give a little more head room on the landing. Added rope railing for safety and something extra to grab on to climbing the ladder. Did this for my daughters fort on her ladder and it a big help. Had to make wider than 24" because the door would hit. Added 2x2 furring framed windows and 2x2 framing above windows.

Looks good. Why don't you build one and I will try it out to be sure all the bugs are worked out before you make one for yourself!

First off, thanks to all those that provided many comments and suggestions. I used some but not all and maybe put my own spin on them.

I converted the fabrication pdf's to images so I could post them. If you would like the actual printable pdf sent me a PM and will try and send out asap. They should print out cleaner from the pdf.

Builder Beware At this point in time I have not built yet by the drawings and some errors may exist but should not be many.

Plus builder can use as reference and modify to their own needs and preferences.

If your can please include your email in the PM. Think that is the only way I can send them.

Don't extend the roof over the door so far. The wind will grab that extended roof and hand it back to you. We also put shelving up in the high end on the inside to keep things from rolling around on your feet.

I built one similar to that last year for my kids to hunt out of. Mine is 7'6" x 8' with the high side being 6'6" tall. I elevated it 7'. I also added a shooting bench under the the windows in the front and right side (directions most deer come from), my kids now can shoot out of sand bags (helps control buck fever in a youngun). I am a general contractor so I used only sraps left over from jobs, it is not very pretty ( 4 different colors of metal) but the deer don't mind. I fully insulated it floor included and carpeted floor and shooting bench.

pm sent

Damn man, your just building a deer blind. That looks like you are going to get serious about the situation.

Good job with the plans. If you're gonna do do it right is what my Dad always told me.

Yeah had some down time @ work and figured why not. It's just time and once they are done they should help someone else even if to mark up for a different size blind. Thought about putting a price but since I was getting paid anyway why double dip.



Thanks.

Yes but the building it part is the hard part. Looks good though.

I have found that you can build a 4 X 8 for the same or close to the same price for materials. The extra 2 feet is nice for more than one hunter. Never found a landing to be much of an advantage. I never plan to view more than 180 degrees so rear windows are of no value. I use a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood horizontal at 36 inches from the floor and cut out the center to give a 10 inch "shelf" all around the stand and shoot off sandbags. You will probably have to shorten the back on an office chair to allow it to swivel but you do not need to move the chair to shoot left or right. Very quick. Windows that hinge up and inside are the only way to go. Use glass - lexan or plexiglass gets too many scratches to make using binoculars comfortable with windows closed. I use shutters on the outside of the windows that hinge up with nylon web hinges (think load binder straps used on 18 wheelers) and a rope pulley that is clamped from the inside. This gives you an adjustable sun screen and rain protection at the same time. If you transport the stand assembled the shutters protect the windows from the wind. I build my stands from 14 guage square tubing and chip board siding with 3/4 plywood for the floor and shelf. Swimming pool liner for the roof is fantastic but metal is easier to get.

What thickness glass do you use? I guess if you took out the windows any time you intend to move that would prevent from cracking them. They should not crack in place. Would also be easy to tint as well.

I did a total material tack-off using Lowe's online pricing.

To build as shown with 6 foot elevated legs. Cost of materials & fasteners would be about $475-$500 including taxes.

Blind alone material cost was around $350-$375 with taxes. Plus whatever paint you use. You could save about $40 if you go with OSB instead of plywood.

I need to find a good source of scrap materials. This cost will only go up if gas prices continue to rise and they will.

As far as windows in the back being of no value, I guess it depends on stand location/placement. If it weren't for back windows, my fiance wouldn't have a deer at the taxidermist right now. The only shot she had was directly behind us and it was her 2nd buck and was a high 130's 8.

Looks like a great stand so far. Hope it works out for you. If you end up using lexan for the windows I would make them to where they slide up and out of the way rather than to the side. I have done it before using a small eye hook screwed into the lexan and then run up to a another eye hook above the window. The string then ran down to where you could hook a loop on a nail to hold the window up. That prevented the situation where you have to cut the lexan in half and slide the sides over each other. Could also help prevent scratching, and the need for glass.

Whatever you do make sure to post final built pics.

PM sent. Very nice work, radtexas.

The plans look great. Would love to see the finished product.

I never built this blind. I decided to build the (6) sided blind I designed.

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/u...tos#Post2500091

Could you please email me a set of plans? rhoskins@ociw.com Thank you in advance.

If the door swings out, I would recommend shifting the ladder over.

can you send me the plans to my email shootingfly@yahoo.com

Buy one. Folks do this for a living and have this all worked out.

Sent these and the other two I did. Hope they help.

Outstanding looking set of drawings radtexas. Would you mind sending me a copy to navcec75@yahoo.com ? I would be very much obliged an would like to take a crack at it...

Jeremy

The only thing I can tell you that I've done and REALLY liked is to put plexiglass (non opening)on the corners. it really helps keep movement down to be able to see through the corners instead of look around them.

Between the window and the corner
[PG][WINDOW----][PG]

in your 3rd pic it would cover that little 3/8" square in the right center of the pic.

Good Morning radtexas was wondering if you could send me a copy of your plans they are awesome. I'd be interested in the octagonal blind too.

c2payne@hotmail.com

Thanks,

It would cost a little more in plywood,but, i built mine 4x6 and the next one will be 5x7, just gives a little more leg room for a bigger man

Great looking stand! I've sent you a pm for the plans, Thanks!

39 nine inches on the windows and as far as being skylighted that is another over blown issue

Someone suggested windows that slide up. I second that.

I put sliding (sideways) windows in mine and have to do too much repositioning if there are 2 people or you need to aim your rifle to one extreme or the other. Ie: to shoot to the right, I'm fine, but to the left requires I slide both windows to the right to shoot out the left side of the slot.

Also, I hung see-through camo netting on the inside of all my windows to break up any outlines.

Very nice plans. PM sent for the pdf version.

May be on your deer, but mine are very good at skylighting. I hunt out of the 6 shooter sf fiberglass blinds and now have the four back Windows covered with black curtains

Just a few items I could think of.

1. Large over hangs on the roof catch a lot of wind, a real problem if elevated.

2. Found out windows that open vertically are better then windows that open horizontally. Windows that slide up will allow more space for your firearm. Windows that slide sideways only give you half the space of the window.

3. Blind corners are a pain. Run the windows closer to the windows.

4. Doors that open to inside can be a problem as for as things getting in the way.

5. 4x6 blinds are OK, but a little extra leg room is sure nice if you have long legs. Plus if you install shelves, your 4x6 living area has now shrunk, especially if two people are hunting.

6. Paint the inside a dark green or black.

7. Have a good way to block off a window to eliminate being highlighted. I have a piece of cardboard cut to fit the window behind me, also have see thru camo curtains. Do not place your blind east and west if you can help it, I fought the sun on every hunt morning and evening for 10 years. Thank God the thing finally blew down.

Radtexas nice plans. Every consider using 2x4 metal studs. Should not weigh much more than 2x2 and that would really firm things up. I PM'd for a copy of the plans. Thanks in advance.

Question: How many years will plywood last? And do you use treated plywood?

Nice plans for building an awesome stand/blind.

I do see one thing though. The bracing on the stand portion is all drawn so that it is weak if the blind tries to twist counterclockwise. Enough weight and it will naturally do this on it's own. It needs some additional bracing installed on opposite angles of the existing bracing to provide equal support.

On a personal note, I prefer there be an absolute minimum amount of material blocking my view. I build my stand with only a 2x3 in each corner to support the weight, with continuous windows on the three sides I hunt. When the stand is elevated the animals can't see all the way through, and I don't have to bob and weave around to see everything. Again, personal preference.

Very nice stand though, and even better planning.

I like to take my kids hunting. But most of the time they get sleepy and want to lean against me to sleep. How about a hinge down bunk bed off one of the long walls. Hinge it up and out of the way when not needed. Stuart

I didnt read the whole post

Lose the overhang
Not so much pitch on the roof
No windows on the back
Door goes on the back
Move window to corners so there is not blind spots
Lower the windows down to 33 or so. You can ad to the height with a pad or rest

+1

Can i get a copy of the drawings sent to me? matt.carr@williams.com

Thanks!

Please send clayton120702@yahoo.com

Wow,
Can you email me the plans..

put plxiglass in that little section between windows and corner studs (doesn't open)... saves a LOT of movement to look around the corners

PM Sent

PM Sent Thanks

PM sent. Would like copy of plans as well

please send plans to jyanker@juno.com.
Thanks

Great blind, and a lot of effort that I am sure is appreciated by many. Very similar to what we've built a couple of times. I like for the windows to span the full width on all sides, except the door. Our plywood windows lift outward, with a nylon cord, made adjustable by a row of hooks or just nails to hold the cord. Outward, the plywood window serves as an adjustable sunshade and keeps it dark inside. Very quiet, no sliding, no limits on field of view. We learned to locate the cord in the middle of the window to prevent warping. Thanks for posting your great plan.

My son and I built this stand and we love it! Not complicated to build and to set it up in the field was pretty easy. We are going to build another one come fall.

I know this is well after the fact, but do you still have the plans for the blind? I would like a copy if possible.

Thanks
LouisFrank

Yes I still send them out occasionally. Message me with an email works best.

Please email them to me please..would love to build it! Looks like a great plan.

if you have the plans that you could email to me, id appreciate it!

thanks
rafa

rafa.a.valiente@gmail.com

Please send copies of the three plans you did.
Thanks
Jeremiah9@hotmail.com

If possible could I get a copy sent to stevep82@gmail.com

Can you e-mail me a file copy of the 4x6 deer blind layout. This is by far the best plans with measurments that I have seen on-line!
nicholasnschutte@gmail.com

THANK YOU!
Nick

radtexas,

My daughter recently took a liking to shooting in general and has expressed an interest in hunting so I need to build some bigger stands on our place. I would appreciate it greatly if you could email me the plans for your stands.

Thanks in advance.

I like really big windows on my blinds. As close to wrap around as I can get. Then I hang camouflage mesh in the windows. And cut slits in it every couple inches. That way I can see out, the deer can't see in, and the slits allow me to stick my rifle out the window without the entire curtain moving. Works great for us.

looks nice I think I will build one

Email me a copy of the plans because i plan on building me 4x6 blind in the very near future.bigb38@comcast.net

Enjoyed reading this thread. Gave me some good ideas.

Can you e-mail me the plans for the 4x6 deer blind.
jkchild@suddenlink.net

THANK YOU!

Could you email the plans to me as well. vicandtiff@gmail.com. Thanks in advance. Vic

Can you email the plans to me please. daved270@yahoo.com

Thanks, David

please send me a copy of your plans to rbshearin@centurylink.net

I finally semi-finished radtexas' 4x6 blind that he drew plans for. I still need to finish bracing the platform, finish up the porch, a little trim work and add the carpet but it will have to wait until after opening day hunt. I just haven't had time to get it all complete.



If anyone is looking to build their own stand, radtexas does a great job with these plans! Thanks again radtexas!

And here's the reason I built the stand to begin with...she's even nice enough to help paint!

Could you please send the plans for hexagon blind to benjamule73@yahoo.com
Thanks

radtexas, please send hex plans to osr2k@hotmail.com.

Thanks in advance

I'll take a set of the plans if you don't mind. janderjeski@satx.rr.com

Would love to have a set of your prints, Thanks in advance! joe.koeppl@gmail.com

I would like very much to have a set of your plans for both the 4x6 and the hex sided blind. Thank you very much for all your time, effort and generosity! rearle90@gmail.com

That's a dandy blind you've designed for sure. I would really like a set of plans. Thanks in advance.
Send to jamill0691@gmail.com

Please add me for a copy of the plans. stevep82@gmail.com

Thanks

Please send me a copy of the plans both the 4x6 and hexsided if possible. aviator148@gmail.com

Thanks

I would appreciate a set of the 4X6 Blind.
Thanks,
modelace@sbcglobal.net

Could you send me the 4X6 plan also, thanks. cegrisham@gmail.com

Can you please send the plans for all 3 blinds to jjff1019@sbcglobal.net

Thank you.
Jeremy

Tried top PM you for a copy of the plans, but you are over your limit.

Sorry I emptied my box. send again and I will forward away.

Please send plans if you can! Awesome stands you've got, and it gets me motivated to get going on one.
Bagley.charlie@yahoo.com

Still able to send out plans or overwhelmed? I'm interested. Sent a pm, but not sure it's getting through.

Welcome to the forum JZ. You sent a notify to MODs. Send a PM to the original poster and he will contact you. PMs are under My Stuff

Radtexas- can u email me the plans for the box and the hex blinds with towers please. Djr242s@hotmail.com

Radtexas- can u email me the plans for the box and the hex blinds with towers please. Djr242s@hotmail.com

Would love to get the PDFs files for this plan...gkteague@hotmail.com...please?b

gkteague@hotmail.com

Can you send me a copy of the plans please? tskelton7346@gmail.com

Can anyone who has these plans please email them to me at pparnell894@gmail.com

RadTexas or anyone who has the .pdf files of these, would you mind emailing them to me gjasonhensley@gmail.com? This is a great design and would help out with my build. Thanks so much.

Does anyone have the PDF for the this blind designed by radtexas? If you do could you please send it to jraywhitey@gmail.com. Thanks

Would love to get these plans. Jsavoie1@camtel.net

If anyone has the PDF plans could you please email me? spirit1217@gmail.com Thanks

radtexas, can you email me your plans? Thanks. goins1992@me.com

Finally found this thread I had saved from a few years ago and when I tried to PM you for a copy of the plans it says you are over your limit. If you are still active I would love to get these plans from you.

Thanks,

Very popular deer blind. Any chance I can get a copy of the plans? In the building process did you use liquid nail or adhesive along with nails? Did you seal the corners with anything? Send plans to thomsonaaron@hotmail.com

I tried to PM, but mailbox was full. Could you please send plans to tlenger@gmail.com?

This has been some good information, thanks for all the post!

Can you send me the plans for the 4x6 blind with porch and legs. Pm must be full. Or if anybody else has received them from radtexas send them my way. thomsonaaron@hotmail.com

This is a great build thread! Does anyone still have the plans saved they could send me?

GWood, I have a very similar blind with plans, photos, & instructions that I'll send if you send a PM with your email address.

does anyone have the pdf plans for radtexas's 4 x6 blind and stand? If anyone can send me them I'd appreciate it a lot, am keen to get the project going, thanks! <rabplatt@hotmail.com>

@radtexas can you please contact me about your Octagon and Hexagon Blind designs?

@radtexas your PM is full. Can you contact me I would like to get a copy of your plans.

FWIW, I think you have too many windows. If you (or your daughter) move, you are likely to spook game. If you are hunting a feeder, you only need ONE window,,paint the inside of the blind dull black and you are good to go.

Radtexas- can u please email me the plans for the 4x6 deer blind layout - gracias302@aol.com Thanks

Radtexas- can you please email me the plans as well for both the 4x6 and hexagon blind? dreeves@kirbyvillecisd.org Thank you!

I'm new here, and hate to ask for something in my first post, however, I would greatly appreciate Radtexas' plans, and any others for ideas. Thank you all for sharing such great ideas!

rngr522@gmail.com