Breaking in a new barrel??

Okay, I now have all the components to start reloading. What is your method to break in the barrel? How many rds total, how frequent do you clean? Do you load lower velocity or go to the upper end of the cartridge? First time to break in a barrel, normally I don't buy new guns but my boss said she wanted a certain rifle and could not find a used one. In case it matters it is a Tikka, 25-06 and will be loading 115 Nosler Ballistic Tips. Powder, I am not sure about yet. Thanks Daniel

7 pages worth, very recently.

http://texashuntingforum.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/7046890/1

Clean, put 20 foulers down it, and go about load development.

Daniel-
You're gonna get lots of differing opinions on this. Here's mine. Load it up and just shoot it! Folks get too wound up about "round count" nowadays. Or, try this: shoot your first ever shots and save that target; after a few hundred rounds, shoot another target and compare group size.

My 25/06 likes anything 100 - 120 grains over IMR 4350. The rifle is a sporterized Springfield, built in the early '60s. Several thousand rounds and a ton of venison later, it'll still shoot "MOA" if I haven't had too much coffee.
Dennis

Ive never broke a barrel in....just go out and shoot it!!!! My dads Tikka 25-06 is shooting 117 SGK's over 49.5gr H4350

Ok, Thanks Guys for the information. Will get the scope mounted and bore sighted today. I should know something tomorrow after some range time. Better yet, my boss will know something!!!!

H4831 is your friend too.

Great!! I have some of both. H4831 and H4350

What I would go to. It'll probably fill the case better.

^^^^
This, for a factory barrel. For an after-market barrel, just clean it and go shoot.

Bingo. There's no magic behind barrel break-in; You can see it with a borescope. If your barrel is made properly and the builder installed it properly, break-in won't be necessary. The goal of a break-in is to smooth out machining marks from making the barrel and from chambering and cutting the throat, which is why people recommend the "shoot/clean/shoot/clean/shoot/clean"-type of procedure. The idea is to keep the fouling to a minimum so that each of the first handful of shots is lapping the machine marks out. If the barrel company lapped the barrel properly it'll already be smooth. Same with the smith installing the barrel. If they know what they're doing, the throat will be chatter/marks/etc-free.

Generally speaking, factory rifle barrels will show more signs of needing it, and custom barrels won't. You aren't going to hurt anything by not doing it, though.

I've had new rifles that did not really start to shoot well until after they'd seen 50 or 60 rounds---and I'm not talking about just getting them sufficiently fouled...but I'm not talking about premium barrels, either.

The barrel I am asking about is a Tikka Forest in 25-06. First new Tikka I have ever bought. Plan to give is a try tomorrow.

Just clean it and go shoot it.

This is pretty much exactly what I did with my newest rifle. With the second bullet/powder combination I got this group with no structured barrel break-in. Not perfect but I'm good with it.

I'd at least run a few patches with whatever solvent you like through it before firing it just to make sure the bore isn't gunky from the factory. Then patch dry.

I follow my own break in procedure with new rifles, not interested in e arguments with internet rifle experts.

Just don't get carried away shooting a new rifle & over heat the barrel.

I think everyone would agree to that advice.