Black powder shotgun shells….the journey begins!

Been gathering things to load black powder shells for a couple old shotguns….



400 primers
550+ hulls
3 lbs of Pyrodex black powder equivalent
7000 3/4” cushion wads
6000 1/2” cushion wads
17 1/2 lbs of # 7 1/2 shot
25 lbs of #4 shot
100 lbs of #8 shot
And all the necessary tools for hand loading…

Hoping to load up a few practice/test shells this week and to be blowing smoke out of a couple old shotguns in a few days….

Nice old school roll crimp tool...those work with paper hulls or plastic hulls.

The videos I’ve seen were rolling plastic. That’s my plan. I also have the star tool and be plan to try both…

I’d say my first time out was a success…

Loaded 4 regular 2 3/4” shells star crimped, cut 8 down to 2 1/4” for older short chamber shotguns. Star crimped four and roll crimped four. Had to play around with how much fiber wad to use to get the finished round right. Hope to “test” them here in a little bit…

Made the tool to measure the hulls to cut down at 2 1/4” and a tool to pack the wads.

Learned a lot today….a lot less intimidated than I was!

Roll crimper worked great and fast…just a couple cranks and done. This is how I plan to go from now on for cut down shells. I will re-star crimp the regular 2 3/4” shells…

The white stuff on the tops of all the shells is Elmer’s glue to seal them.

Are you using a nitro card over the powder followed by the fiber wad or just going straight with the fiber wad over the powder? I've done both ways but found that the nitro card gives a better seal and burn of the powder. The nitro card also will help prevent lube from the fiber wads coming in contact with the powder.

I’m using a 3/4” cardboard card I cut out over the powder and under the fiber cushion wad. I use the same cards over the shot.

What is a nitro card made of? How is it different from what I’m doing?

Nitro cards are thicker than the cardboard you are using. They are really stiff and do not flex like regular cardboard or fiber wads, thus providing for a better gas seal. I always assumed they were some type of super compressed cardboard, but the link below says this particular one is made of industrial board material. I don't remember if mine are the same one as I linked or I got them somewhere else. I just found the link to give you an idea of what they look like.

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/125-Maxi-Nitro-Card-500_bag/productinfo/NC/

If you add the nitro card, you will have to again play around with the fiber wad to get the desired crimp. The nitro card I linked is 1/8" thick.

Thanks!

Going to order some nitro cards for the next round.

The glue is dry on these….loaded from left to right.



First round of shells are done and guns are ready.

Just waiting for daylight to give it a go….

Really cool stuff! Love the lee hand loaders.

These are similar to the wads i have…

I have 3/8” and 1/2” for 12 gauge with the wax seal. I got a box of 7000 of the 3/8” and a box of 6000 of the 1/2” for $20/box.

I’m having loads of fun using it.

Seriously, I’ve learned a lot and am enjoying it. Excited to shoot these old shotguns!

I assumed you were using fiber cushion wads and not the wads you indicated. With the fiber cushion wads, you typically use a nitro card over the powder and before the fiber wad. The fiber wads allow for a compression when adjusting for your column height. I honestly have never used the wads you have – I didn’t know they made them that thick and maybe they didn’t when I bought all of my supplies eons ago.

Most of my loading for BP shells has been in brass cases (older Remington or newer Magtech). Those shells require oversized wads due to the thin brass compared to plastic hulls.
If you shoot your shells at a range, prepare for an audience. The sound the BP shells make vs regular shells will turn heads along with the giant cloud of smoke.

What guns do you have pictured? Just be sure to give them a good cleaning as soon as you can. I use water or a water and Ballistol mix to get it clean and then follow up with a light wipe down with straight Ballistol.

The one on the left is a Remington model 1894 made in 1899 and the one on the right is a “Richard Belgium” estimated to be made somewhere between 1890 and 1900….

Got both from members of the THF. Hope to pick up a couple more before April.

How much did they run if I might ask. Thanks

Got one in a trade so around $250-$300 and $300. Going to look at another one this week that’s $250.

Haven’t had a chance to shoot them yet….

Hoping maybe tomorrow…

Roll some bismuth and let’s go duck hunting!!!

Finally got to shoot them today! What a hoot….lots of fun! Now it’s time to load up some more shells….



First the old Belgium……




Then the Remington…..




Having a blast with these old shotguns well over 120 years old! Hoping to pick up one or two more this week then start loading up more shells…..

I’ve got a couple short videos on my phone if anyone knows how to upload them…

That would be fun….

And then there were three….

Picked up a Damascus barrel Crown Arms 16 gauge today I estimate to have been made prior to 1890…..my third BP shotgun!

Only problem is that I only have reloading components for 12 gauge so now I have to buy hulls and wads for 16 gauge before I get to load shells and shoot it….

Dang that looks like some fun Snake

This is fun but the real fun will be in April when we’re using these old guns to “smoke” the clay course at Daves charity shoot….

Looking at one more old shotgun this weekend to round out the four I was hoping to pick up.

Be sure to check the chamber length in that old 16ga. Many of the older ones have short chambers and you may need to adjust your hull length.

I’m cutting them all down to 2 1/4” just to be safe. Thanks!

This is consistent with most of the information I’ve been finding for these old guns…




This is seven years old. Current values based on my research are $50 wall hanger to $300+ for a really clean “shooter” guns without any serious defect. Not talking safe queen supper clean guns….these are shooters!

I’ve literally looked at and looked up information on well over a hundred old shotguns. I’ve Learned a lot to still be this ignorant…..

The information I posted above is why I’m only using light black powder or equivalent loads and cutting all the shell down to 2 1/4”

That way they will be “safe” in any of the old guns regardless of chamber length or barrel steel.

Great thread Jes. Can't wait to see these old guys in action!!

Thanks Dave! I’m really looking forward to your shoot and already excited about shooting these old guys. I’m planning on loading up extra shells so other folks there can shoot them if they want to.

Jes I'm sure I have some 16ga empties around here. Let me know if you want some

Yesterday was a great day. Got to meet two members and further my addiction…..

Thanks Dink! Was a pleasure meeting you! They will be put to use…

Also met Kentucky Native and purchased a 1904 G grade Lefever in 12 gauge…






Then today I picked up a couple more toys…

I now have over 690 12-gauge shells cut down to 2.25” and primed. Ready for powder and shot! Bought a 16 gauge Lee Hand loader and a 16 gauge roll crimper last week. They should be here in a couple weeks.

please wear your shooting glasses

Awesome, looks great. I just added to your first post not realizing it was from awhile back.

16g Lee Loader arrived today…

Roll crimper should be here soon!



These 1965 Christmas stamps were on the bottom of the box…I was born in 1965!

Today I picked up a sweet little LC Smith 12 gauge with 30” Damascus barrels made in 1902 from an 83 year old man. It’s been in his safe for over 50 years!


Can’t wait to shoot it!

I now have five old shotguns made in 1905, 1904, 1902, 1899, & est. 1890. Two “modern steel” barrels, 2 with Damascus barrels, and 1 with twist barrels…four 12’s & a 16!

Man! The stories those shotguns could tell...

Finally! All 245 pieces of brass are milled to take 209 shotgun primers and primed. Wads came in last week so I’m ready to start loading…

Yesterday loaded up a few…90 brass & 50 plastic!

Only 600+ plastic and 150 brass to go….

That's awesome Jes. Are you lubricating your cushion wads?
I need to get on with my brass 410 project. I have everything, just need to punch out some overshot cards and get some free time.

The 12 gauge plastic shells have prelubed wads. The 12 gauge brass (11 gauge wads) are dry. I’ve read mixed reviews about the necessity of using lubed wads vs dry. I’m going to shoot this first 90 next weekend then decide if I need to lube them for future shells.

If I decide to lube them I plan to use 2 parts mutton tallow, 2 parts canning paraffin, 1 part bees wax as my lubricant.

[/quote] I’ve read mixed reviews about the necessity of using lubed wads vs dry. /quote]


Same here.
My plan is to load 410 shells in 444 Marlin brass.
At least one article said to apply 3 drops of 30w motor oil (.430 wads) and squeeze it with just your fingers then squeeze it again between two layers of paper towels, use a nitro card over the powder (smokeless in this case) then the lubed wad, an additional cushion wad if necessary for column height.
I'm sure if I were to use them shortly after loading that would be fine but I'm concerned about the oil soaking into the nitro card over time and affecting the powder. Maybe I worry too much?
I need to get some loaded and find a place to go test them out. I just think brass shotshells are cool.

Lubed wads help keep black powder fouling soft and minimizes the build up after multiple shots compared to dry wads.. It also makes cleanup easier. There are benefits to using them, but not required.

There's no reason to use lubed wads for smokeless powder though. The lube is for black powder fouling as noted above.

Snake has officially define “labor of love”

Didn’t realize how laborious it was. Makes it even cooler!!