Why

is everybody putting so much into IBO and speed bows. I mean, I understand why some people are doing it, thinking the biggest and baddest might be the best, but be honest, bowhunting is a "game to be played at close range" and some people are thinking if they have a fast bow, they can reach out and touch something. With that said, I'm not bashing on you, because if you want a fast bow or a bow that pulls higher than 70 pounds, knock yourself out, but for me, its all about trying to get as close as possible to take the shot.

I'm sure if you google or research all the good bowhunters, that make a living at hunting, you will find they don't, or aren't that worried about IBO speeds. And I know some will want to bash some of these guys as well, but think about it, they probably shoot more animals in a year or two than some have shot with their bow in a lifetime.

Interesting poll

I think that many people get into the speed increases of their bow as a hobby. Basically, just trying to find the greatest and latest new thing.

I have a buddy that loves to "tweak" his bow and tries out different arrows, rest, etc to try to get a few more FPS. He shoots daily, has a complete bow shop in one of his rooms and wouldn't shoot at a deer over 30 yards. He doesn't do it so he can reach out, he does it because he enjoys it.

As technology goes forward so does speed, Personally, and I dont want to get into a peeing match but speed in my opinion is a good thing, I get the get close deal but if I can be 10 yards and shoot 300 fps, that is better than 10 yards and 200 fps. It gives a little margin for error at those off yardages. A fast bow allows you a wide range of arrow weights it can deliver effectively. I dont see a real down side short of an increased plane effect on broadheads at high speed, if your tuned your tuned so that should not be a driving concern. As companies push speed limits up it also allows a shooter who doesnt want to max out a bow at 70 to shoot at 60 etc and still have good speed. Somebody tell me the down side??? I think some guys who have been doing it for years get a little miffed that someone can buy a quality bow setup properly and with a little instruction and practice shoot very, very good with todays equipment, like they have missed out by not taping matches to a recurve. Time marches on. What I find funny is in archery some want to cling to the old, when I go to the golf course all the old guys are swinging the latest and greatest and love it, I have never had someone say I miss that old wood driver with the head the size of a silver dollar. The gun guys have tried to push the limits for ever. bullets, powder, optics. For some reason somebody always wants to gripe about this stuff in archery. I think it is a good thing the the Archery Companies bring new products, invest in RD, if they didnt I suspect they would go out of biz. By the way, go question the gun guys why they need a certain calliber and they will go nuts.

its just not that hard to hit the 275 mark with even the low end bows today

Killemall, I kind of understand some of it as I was once young and thought I had to have the biggest baddest bow ever made. And that cost me a Mountain Lion back in 1992 while mule deer hunting in Fort Stockton area. I a 80 pound Darton because I wanted more power in a bow. While setup over a water hole a Lion came in right at dark for a drink. I had a heck of a time trying to keep my composure and trying to pull that monster of a bow. I finally got it drawn but could not connect because I about busted a gut.

Dead is dead. Personally I would rather hunt with recurve or long bow for more of a challenge but just can't seem to find one that I really like and shot well. And then to put in all the practice that is required. But I've killed several with a recurve in past years and it was great.

The efficiency of the arrow itself is more important than the speed I think. Meaning are you getting the most out of the bow? Just cause you crank it up and are shooting lazer beams doesn't mean this is a good hunting set up. I'm not a speed guy, I've only chronoed my old Matthews one time and that was ten years ago and it shot a 500 grain arrow 240 fps and it will shoot through deer and most hogs and the arrow burries up in the dirt on the far side. I can't think of a time I have missed a critter cause bow was slow, deer can jump the string faster than any bow can shoot. My brothers crossbow shoots 370 and at thirty yards deer jump the string. Use a rangefinder or get real good at judging distance, pay attention to body language of the critter your shooting and it'll all work out.

When I started bowhunting, 250 was a smokin fast bow. My bow had 20% letoff, and I could only hold so much, so I shot a 45lb bow and killed a whole bunch of critters with it. I don't think it ever chrono'd over 200. My current bow has an IBO of 335 or there about. I shoot 400 grain arrows at about 290, which is really dang fast, and packs a pretty good wallup.

I enjoy bowhunting more than anything anymore, but I do keep a rifle handy when at the Lease, and I'll grab it and go running after varmints or pigs anytime!

Kewl deal, I am 41 and have nothing to prove, I buy a fast bow because I can, I like it, and you have yet to make an valid argument against today's bows that are fast, pretty forgiving, and quiet. You can stick your comment about something to prove.

Interesting. No need to get nasty, or is there? I just don't want NEW hunters to fall under the assumption that they need to find the fastest bow out there and not learn the basics of bowhunting. I've seen way to much of that in my 53 years, and from working at a pro shop on and off over the years to feed my addiction. Since the early 90's, I've probably spent WAY to much money, always trying to upgrade to the fastest and best bow, but after spending probably somewhere in the neighborhood of over $30,000 dollars on stuff of this nature, I soon learned that I wasn't really gaining anything because I would never achieve IBO or gain much more speed than what I would ever get.

For an EXPERIENCED person such as yourself, then by all means, you should get as much as you can for speed, but let's not lead a newbie down the wrong path.

Good day to you....

Well I guess I shoot a slow bow cause I can. I don't worry about newest and fastest I haven't been in a bow shop in five years but I have been in the taxidermy shop three times a year for the last five years. Just saying.

Newbies if I am reading this right I guess you should ignore technology, find a slow bow and live with it, even though if you read this thread you will not find a reason given. None, nada, because none exists. There are reasons listed above that they won't dispute as benefits, you see them listing any benefits to slow, they all are going cost if you buy quality new.

Not trying to get on the side of any one but I think what Kewl is trying to say is that instead of going 80#'s with a 1000.00 bow and you are new to the game that going with 70#'s with a 400.00 bow will suit you best. will be shooting the same draw length and if you stick with the 5# rule your over all FPS will be close.
PSE Stinger will get you 294FPS @ 70# 28"DL and the new Bear Motive 6 will put you at 313 going with 80# 28"DL. Is the 19 FPS really worth $700.00? I dont think so IMHO. You will only gain 6.33 yards.

Easy with the newbie there hero, I've been around long enough to know what I like and what the critters I shoot don't. Speed bow can kill too nobody's saying they can't but its not needed, .458 Win will kill a white tail but its not needed. I could shoot speed bows if I wanted but I could steer a car with my feet too that don't make it a good idea.

This is a story about Joe and Mo. Joe likes blondes and Mo likes redheads. Joe likes the more sophisticated woman while Mo likes them a little on the wild side. Joe wants a woman though that will drink whiskey while Mo likes his women to drink fine wine.

Basically what I'm saying, everybody has different tastes, but as long as the end results are the same, why getting into a PePe match about it

Cmc, I am referencing another post above regarding leading "newbies" down the wrong path.

Stories of Joe and mo don't equal facts, what is the down side, I assume you don't know one, nobody should over spend, I am not saying that. You don't have to now. You also don't have to sacrifice forgiveness or quiet. Bows are just better now.

Is speed every thing? No...but a 4" trajectory difference between 30yards and 40 vs 8" between 30 and 40... Can be especially helpful... The differnece can be not coming home with a big 320-330 elk because you missed ranged. Two inches can be a brisket shot or a heart shot.

By the way, been meaning to ask what you shoot? Here is my set-up:

Mathews z7 eXtreme Tactical, with all tactical accessories
Tru-Glo Rover
QAD
28" DL Pulling about 63 pounds
125 Magnus traditional head (the older ones)
Usually shoot the Carbon Express Aramid KV 350's with 5" feathers, but also have some Pile Drivers that I got SUPER CHEAP that I fling at pigs, squirrels or anything else for that matter, also with 5" feathers.
I do have some Aramids and Blue Streaks that are fletched with Blazers.

As for Joe and Mo, don't see how their not equal facts, basically both like women but have different taste in their women.

Cool thread

Sorry

With a 26.5" draw and two repaired shoulders I'm never going to get an advertized IBO out of any bow. The quietness, smoothness, vibration and shock freedom and quality of a bow however lead me to believe that the higher end bows have more to offer than just a little extra speed. Not saying less expensive bows don't kill as well but I drank Black Label when I was young because it was inexpensive. It didn't get me any less drunk than what the beer I drink now would but my current beer is much better tasting for the extra cost.

pse xforce axe 6
nap quick tune
tru glo extreme tool less
29 draw 62 lbs
GT xt hunter for the most part
rage 100 grain 2 blade and good old school muzzy 100 3 blades

on the question where it was
asked about the speed of your bow,
you left out the box that
says "don't care"

LOL. I know, but it was too late without going back and doing it all over again

I found out today my comfort range is between 15 and 25 yards

I shoot targets to 50(well I might add) but I wouldn't try that shot on a deer

I shoot a 26.5" draw as well.

I like a faster bow because it makes up for the short draw length.

I shoot a modern high speed fast bows with really heavy arrows that fly slow. Depending on the setup I shoot anywhere from 260 fps all the way down to 200 fps. So where do I fit in?

A really quiet bow...

Bowtech insanity or elite GTO depending where I'm hunting

Blue streaks or bloodsport
QAD hdx( bow tech) limb driver pro(GTO)
True glo extreme tool less also .10 pins
Tight spot quiver.
Broad heads
rage extreme and titanium(whitetails)
"Solid" broads (elk)
Vpa non vented hogs and small game.

After marinating on this for a day or so I want make sure the newbies You refer to understand the argument for speed. First off IBO is not speed for the sake of speed. What it is is a measure of how effectively or efficiently a bow transfers energy to an arrow at said pound setting. I argue that all things equal a bow that shoots 20 fps faster at the same poundage is more efficient. What does that do for the shooter, additional speed does allow for a flatter trajectory. It has other benefits as well. You may not care to shoot a 350-400 grain arrow. Thats fine to. That same speed allows for the 500-600 grain arrow to be delivered as well. slower but still faster than from a less efficient bow. Momentum and KE however you feel about them are both aided. Now a new shooter, a smaller weaker person is able to take the same bow, back down the poundage and still recieve benefits from the more efficient bow. They can shoot at 58-60 and still have ample speed to get the job done. Guys reference using 80# bows back in the day for certain types of animals, that is no longer needed. The increased efficiency allows a 70 # bow to be used and not even maxed out. If I was going to alaska today, I am not buying an 80# monster of the past, I am cranking my current rig to 70 upgrading the grains or arrows and broadhead to be species appropriate, sighting in and getting on plane. An older person can still shoot and kill animals until late in life. Just like in golf there are 70 year old men hitting the ball of the tee as far as they did when they were 35 and still enjoying the game just as much due to the advance in driver technology. Before you "newbies" get lead down the wrong path just be sure you get the entire picture. I know indians did it different, I never really wanted to be an indian to be quite honest with you. As to basics of bowhunting and shooting, I did not know they were different for a fast, more efficient bow and a slow less efficient bow. As I never worked in a shop and therefore lack knowledge please clue me in as to the difference in "basics" between them.

The only reason I shoot a bow with a higher iBo is because I want the most margin for error on the rare 30-40 yard shots. To each his own but I like a little extra speed when the occasional opportunity arises

I found this on another site. There are many other comments which basically say the same thing. Quote, "I used to have my bows set for 65 pounds. Then, I met one of the greatest bow hunters ever in Alaska. He took every big game animal up here, and his bow was set at 50 pounds. After being around him for a while, I backed mine off to 50 pounds and have has complete shoot-throughs on blacktails, black bears, caribou, Dalls sheep and 2 big moose.
There is absolutely no need for more if you keep your blades razor sharp. Keep in practice. Holding a 50 pound at full draw is easy compared to holding a 65 and heavier bow at full draw."
This is another opinion that I found.......The Alaskan Moose is one BIG animal. A trophy moose can go eighteen hundred pounds and stand nine feet at the shoulder. Heavy bows and heavy arrows are a must! For my hunt I used my homemade Black Walnut Lonbow which pulled sixty-five pounds at my draw length of twenty six inches. Heavy arrows are key to good penetration and are much more critical than speed for an animal as big as a moose. For my arrows I used a special hardwood arrow material called RAMINWOOD which, along with my Zwickey Delta broadheads, produced a finished arrow of eight hundred grains. Though my sixty-five pound longbow sent those arrows a sizzling one hundred-fifteen feet per second through a chronograph, the arrow penetrated completely through the Moose!

Arrow and bow weights are not nearly as critical as shot placement however, and nothing other than a quartering away, or broadside shot is recommended. My bull stood in front of me at twenty yards with a very slight quartering-to angle. Although I felt confident that I could slip the arrow into the right spot, there was too much chance of a wound. The moose ended up walking past me at eight yards, giving me a perfect quartering-away shot. I recovered the bull in less than one hundred yards with a single clean shot.

I have a question. What would you want to shoot if you traveled to say, WY on an antilope hunt?
I think, if you only hunt in Texas, comfort should be your primary goal but, if I'm going to go somewhere that may require a longer shot, then speed is going to be at the top of my list, less margin of error.
I'm not a speed freak but, if I can reduce the margin of error I'm going to do as much as my wallet will let me.

pulling a 65 lb bow isn't hard. with todays let offs, its like holding nothing.

My buddy bought a 60# helium and he went back to a 70# bowtech because he missed the extra speed.

Prety crazy when you think about it. My wifes compound is set at 37lbs and her normal arrow is about 704 gr and flies at 144 FPS. As a test she shot some of my safari arrows that weigh 950 gr. They fly at 124 FPS from her bow. with the 950gr her KE is about 32 but her momentum is above 50. Yet a lot of people say that she does not have enough KE to hunt with and wont be able to kill an animal let alone a tough wild boar.

It all comes down to total overall design of arrow and broadhead.

I would shoot my Mathews

Speed goats are tbe thinnest skin big game aninals in north america.

It doesn't take much to put them down.....not to mention its not like they hide under a tree.

What ever your the most accurate with. Speed goats are obe of the few animals i would push the 50-60yard mark

The faster the bow and the further away from the target does allow for a larger margin for error... That said, I am maxed out on my 70# limbs and am very accurate to 30 yards. I have no checked my speed but surely over 300 per what I have researched on my bow.

Neat poll!

If you feel comfortable drawing a bow over 70lb and can afford modern technologies, then why not shoot a $1000 bow. Does this mean you cant kill deer with 50lb no it just means you can afford and handle a harder shooting bow.

Draw Length?

28", Arrows the same. .340 spine/100gr BH

I would be interested in knowing the fps on that set-up if you get a chance to get it done.

Yea I am curious too... I know it's quick and quiet! When just getting into it, I cranked the limbs closer to 60# and it was still fairly quick at that... If I get to a bow shop for anything I will test it and let ya know...

My bow IBOs at 350FPS plus. But I shoot Easton Axis-N-fused arrows with 75 grain inserts for a total arrow weight of 493 grains with good front of center. I can tell you a 493 grain arrow going 285 FPS is deadly and quiet.