I have Questions.

I have Ruger 77 Hawkeye in 6.8 SPC that I can't seem to get to shoot well. Swapped scopes, dropped it in a McMillan stock I had for another short action Ruger I sold. Tried different ammo. Rifle currently has a 16" pencil barrel. I'm considering a new barrel to get accuracy and allow me to shoot suppressed.

Stock will take a medium sporter barrel. I thinking either going 16" threaded 6.8 SPC or 18" threaded 224 Valkyrie.


I've never had a barrel changed out. How do I start? Who do do recommend to perform such a delicate procedure? What is the process?

I know nothing.

Dang. I meant to post in the rifle section. See how confusing this is?

Get with JGFireman....

What kinda groups are you getting?

If your sure your done with that barrel S&S precision is top notch in Denton, talk with them, they will supply your components or you can gather them and take it all up.

If your gonna do the Valkyrie I would suggest a 7 twist barrel, and Brux is one of the best out right now. I did one in a number 4 taper (6.5-284) and it fills a sporter stock quite nicely.

There are a bunch of excellent rifle builders in Texas but I can say from having more than 4 rifles done there you won’t be disappointed at all.

That's sound advice.

To help explain...it's not a big deal. There are two ways to approach it. You get all the needed parts and take in for the smithing or you let the smith order it all. They don't make much on rifle parts and most don't care either way....everyone I've ever met would rather be standing in front of a machine making chips over being in the phone....ordering parts or in general.

Now should you want to get parts....you really need a barrel, muzzle brake, reamer and go gauges (assuming you aren't going to use the Smith's reamer and gauges). Reamers and go gauges can be rented from 4D but you need to coordinate time because it has to be send back in a certain time frame.

I prefer the second way just because I want to control things and know where and who my bottle necks are. If it's a supplier I'll know and might try someone different because of it next time. Plus, it beats me wondering if the smith ordered the right stuff, did he order stuff when he said...etc. Plus, back to my point above....they don't like phones and I refuse to be "that guy". If you cannot wait months without knowing or bugging him then you should go the second route because you'll be part of the reason things take so long...they aren't making chips but instead talking on the phone.

About 3" at 100 yards.

I am leaning towards the Valkyrie. I will contact them.

I don't need to control everything. Just looking for an experienced gunsmith recommendation that can change a barrel and make some recommendations on barrel options. There are many gunsmiths in the area that list only very basic services like scope mounting and installing drop in triggers. Just trying to save time by getting a recommendation on a gunsmith people have used for barrel changes. So much talk on this forum about building rifles, I'm sure there are some competent gunsmiths in the DFW area that people can recommend.

Get with JGFireman...

Optimal Ruger action screw torque can be finicky. Regardless of whether you rebarrel, try tightening the front screw gorilla tight (75-95 in-lbs) followed by the rear screw (40 in-lbs) and the middle just finger tight. Should shrink your groups significantly

He's welcome to post. I'm just trying to get several opinions.

RedSnake,

I have checked the screws. I have several Rugers and what you posted is good advice. I learned that a while back.

I’m just offering another simple check...

Good ammo?

If so, from same lot?

I've tried about 5 different kinds of factory ammo from 90 grains to 120 grains. Doesn't really like anything. I tried some reloads, the same. I'm sure there is a magical load out there but it shouldn't be this much work to print a decent group.

Everyone is telling you to get with jgfireman because he does the type of work that you are asking about, not because he would know of who to send it to.

I had no idea he was a gunsmith. I will reach out to him as well.

This^^^

I’ve had a couple of rifles with bad barrels. It can happen.

Scott, I'm not running the lathe, I'm doing everything else. Another person is running the lathe, and doesn't want to mess with everything else. Exactly like Judd explained it.

This can be fixed, with money.

Of course, try what Red is telling you first. I would not doubt him, he's got a fine shooting Ruger 77. And he is the type of guy that researches the hell out of any topic he wants an answer to.

Jason,

Thanks. I have 4 other 77s. He is right about the screw setting for sure. It's Been checked and rechecked. It has a pencil barrel anyway. I'm thinking something with a little more meat and threaded since I got that suppressor. Still undecided on whether to keep it 6.8 or go Valkyrie.

Maybe some bourbon over the holidays will help give me a clearer picture.

Thanks to everyone for their input so far.

Merry Christmas to everyone!

to answer your question, YES, Santa Clause IS REAL!!!!


BACK TO YOUR BUDGET AND TIME FRAME FOR COMPLETION? sorry, left caplok on, wasn't meaning to shout at you.

Merry Christmas

Have you checked the crown? It's a long shot but recrowning might help.

If you really want to run it suppressed, I’d just skip to the new barrel as it sounds like you’ve done Most of the usual things to try and get this one shooting. I had an m77 mkII 22-250 that wouldn’t shoot well, I had a local gunsmith put a Shilen #4 on it. Shot well with the new tube. M77s can be rebarreled with out issue, most rifle smiths I’ve asked will work on them. Bedding is a little trickier than with a cylindrical action, but nothing a good gunsmith can’t handle. If you’re ordering parts you’ll want to get a contour that will work well with your desired muzzle thread diameter, and still fit your stock. I would probably opt to let the rifle builder fit and bed it into your McMillan if you’re not handy with such things.

On the 224V vs 6.8, I’d go 6.8 if hunting pigs and deer is the plan. Not to say a .22 cal won’t work, but the 6.8 will be better. If targets and varmints are the main use then maybe go 224V.

Or sell the rifle and stock and step up to a short action standard bolt face chambering, options real open up with this route for hunting or target shooting.

I’d keep it at 6.8 and go at least 18” and push it hard. Should be lethal to 300 on pigs deer and yotes!

Reloading, Sir ?? if not then... you should be.

Kinda think I'm going this route after thinking about it more. McGowen prefit barrels any good? They have 10% off right now.

I'm looking for a light recoil suppressed hunter, not a target rifle.

Try some pressure on barrel right where it leave the stock. Electrical tape is what I start with during testing, if it works then I replace tape with a spot of bedding compound on the stock.

Yes, tried reloads as well. Replacing the barrel allows me to go threaded and suppressed. The current barrel is only .525 at the end.

Sounds like you want a new barrel, so get one.

I know a few guys who are running McGowens on "budget" builds. I also know quite a few who used McGowens on their switch barrel Savages. Never heard a complaint about them in terms of accuracy. If you are sticking with 6.8, then McGowen or X-Caliber might be good for you. X-Caliber doesn't do Ruger pre-fits for the M77, but you can get a contoured blank from them for a reasonable price (25% off right now) and then have your smith thread and chamber.

Keep the 6.8

Whoever you use I would make sure that they are licensed properly to do this work. There are guys out there without the proper license's doing gunsmith work and that is very unfair to the gunsmiths that are doing it legally with all the proper licenses. There are gun shops that have been shut down the last couple of years ,or had to suspend business for months due to no license or the the the improper license. Apparently the ATF has been cracking down in the area . It's a pain if you get your gun tied up in that mess .

Completely agree. I'll probably just order a pre-fit and see if I can get a recommendation for a gunsmith in the area to screw it in.

For several years, there was things I was being asked if I could do, and yes I had the ability but it wouldn't have technically been legal per ATF, so I had to turn down that work. This past June I got my 07 FFL, which is a manufacturer of firearms and ammunition. It was not what I applied for, and the super helpful ATF investigator that called me, suggested the 07 gives me more latitude, and would be a better path to take. I thanked him for it. And it sure did make me busier last year, and the ability to do more than just the teaching stuff, which I am also still doing of course. There are lots of rules I have to follow, but the bit of extra work and documentation has been worth it.

Does that mean the person doing the lathe work also has the proper license.

JG,

I wasn't referring to you. I know you build customer target rifles now. I'm just looking for a barrel swap. I'm referring to when you look for a gunsmith in the area, you get a list but when you dig a little deeper, they can only install a drop in trigger and mount your scope.

The person running the lathe doesn't need a license. The license is only required for intake and "possession" of the firearm while it is being worked on. I know one very reputable gunsmith (the guy with the license) who only does stock work. The guy in his shop that runs the lathes is an amazing machinist and does superb work. His name is nowhere on the FFL, nor does it have to be.

You are correct the man running the lathe has to be on the premises of the license address. If he is not at that address with the lathe then he has to have a license to work on that gun.