AR 15 build

So I've owned 3 ar-15 rifles in the past. I'm wanting to build one this time. I need help/suggestions for components. I also am curious of differences in forged and billet lowers. So, this is what I'm hoping to get. Any brand suggestions are welcome. This will be a fun gun and accuracy is my big desire.

1. 18-20" match barrel .223 wylde
2. Billet or forged Lower (assembled preferred)
3. Flat top upper
4. Free Float Handgaurd
5. Nice smooth target trigger

Again, I've never done this. I know there are endless options, but hope hope someone is experienced and give their opinion. Thanks

Billet looks cool and adds weight. They should match up nicely with a matching forged upper. That's about it. They add nothing functionally to the rifle. Well, some have a screw in the grip for trigger adjustment so I guess that's something functional if you use it.
Why get a built lower if you are going to change the trigger in it? It's not that hard to assemble the lower yourself if you are at all mechanically inclined. You'll need a couple of low cost tools (that you might already have) but you buy them once and you can build lots of AR lowers. I will say that building one makes you understand how they work better. Tons of videos on youtube on how to assemble the lowers. Watch a few and see what you think.

yep... options are endless... gonna come down on how much you want to spend.
I purchased a AR Stoner .223 Wylde from Midway USA @ 20" and got it plinking 700 yards, hold over. No dial up. Not bad for an under 200.00 barrel.
All of my AR's have 3.5-4.5 JP Spring Kit again cheap under 15.00 modification.

It was suggested by a local friend that I purchase the lower built since it my first time. However, i wound up changing the triggers in my previous rifles. I've never messed with buffer springs, nor do I know which to purchase. I was looking at the aero precision complete lowers. I'm considering a wilson combat match barrel. These are just preferred thoughts, as I'm in NO hurry.

Building a lower is super easy. If you can swap triggers on an AR15 lower, you can build a stripped lower. There is no real advantage of billet over forged, other than you can tell people you have a billet lower. They look cooler though, if you're into stylized lowers. And forged lowers are arguably more durable than billets, but I reckon you'll never reach the service life of either.

Check out [url=www.ar15performance.com]ARP[/url] for your match barrels. They're half the cost of the big name stuff like Wilson or Larue or Shilen... (The latter two are Texan, while Wilson is half Texan but will still charge you sales tax lol.) I use ARP barrels for my 6.8s, and a pair of .223 Wylde and they are far more accurate than me. I would go with an 18in mid-gas.

Flat top upper is a given, as is the free-float handguard. I like the BCM KMR due to its mount design and extreme light weight. For a trigger I would get a 3.5lb CMC single-stage. (CMC is another Texas company). It's just as good as my Geisseles and for quite a bit less dineros.

There are tons of good videos on YouTube on assembling your first stripped lower. If you can do brake shoes on your truck, you can put together a stripped lower. Assembling an upper is arguably more difficult, and you'll need specialty tools like an upper vise block. Back to the lower, buffer weights is not a big deal. I just run a Spikes T2 on pretty much all my ARs, and I don't have any issues.

So if you're planning on assembling your own upper, I say you may as well build the lower as well. Build it exactly how you want it. By now, for your 3rd AR, you should already have a good idea of what you want.

Forged parts are slightly stronger per oz. than billet, but you get a lot more options with billet. It really comes down to how much weight you want, how much money you want to spend. If if you want full billet, take a look at SWAT Firearms if you're on a budget.

One word of advice is, the hardest parts of assembling a lower are getting the bolt release roll pin in without scratching/scraping the finish and installing the pivot pin detent without launching it into the stratosphere. Get the right tools to install them and buy extra pins and detents before you even start. If you plan on assembling your own upper, you'll need extra tools and I highly recommend the Magpul BEV block and the Amashotop armorers tool that is sold on eBay. I've broken two of the Smith USMC tools and then bought the Amashotop tool on a whim. I then talked to one of the reps in Taiwan about the tool and got them to make a few changes. It's a dang good tool and is very versatile. I've beet on it with a three lb. hammer trying to break an extremely tight barrel nut and haven't hurt it yet, despite it being made in Taiwan.

Also, and this is really important if you want to do it correctly, spring for a decent set of actual roll pin punches, standard punches will lead to heartache and sorrow, as is trying to use cheap, Chinese punches.

X2 on ar15performance barrel and matching holt and cmc drop in trigger. You can buy a lower parts kit without the trigger group from almost any parts dealer now for the rest of the smalls you need in the lower.

1. x3 AR15performance barrel (out of stock in 18" at the moment), Nordic Components 18" barrel from Joebobs outfitters or White Oak Armament 18" barrel from brownells.
2. Mega Arms if you can find one. billet or forged take your pick. Billet for looks, Forged to save on weight keep build lightweight. Fit and finish is superb. I own several.
3. Most stripped uppers will come with flat top for sights/optics ready.
4. Samson EVO freefloat hand guards are great never had an issue with one.
5. Geissele SD-E, high end trigger, Velocity or CMC to save some money.
6. Don't skimp on barrel, trigger, optics and ammo. My ARP 18" .223 Wylde shoots sub moa at 100yd with Blackhills 69g SMK reman and Magtech CBC 77g OTM if I do my part. Wylde chamber like the heavier grain ammo.

I was relatively new to ar's in general u til recently. After watching a bunch of YouTube and buying a couple tools, I'm totally confident to do anything with an ar. It was a lot easier than I thought. If you are ever near the Houston area, then I'd be more than glad to help and/or lend tools.

This is the last tool you'll need to install roll pins:

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8603250-10-Inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B000X4OG94

They work a treat on the trigger guard, bolt catch, gas block, and any other roll pin. Think of them as a handheld press.

Krieger, white oak, or JP barrel

RRA, cmc, timney trigger

I prefer the aluminum tubular handguards.

Noveske or JP barrel

Geissele two stage or an AR Gold single stage

Start with a plan. What purpose does the rifle serve? Long range, hunting, target, truck gun, 50yds, or 500yds the possibilities are endless but very specific to the options and parts you choose. In most cases just throwing something together you end up continuing to chase options after the rifle is built. With a plan you get it the way you want the first time.

I just built my 1st rifle last week. I bought all Anderson. I bought a stripped lower and a build kit. I watched at least 30 different youtube videos and figured it out. I will say it was a lot easier than I expected. The only tool that I purchased was the wrench for the barrel nut. before my next build I will buy the vise block for the upper. With this being said, I had the roll pin punches already and I used a razor blade for the springs. I do want to change the trigger in this gun. It is a little on the hard side.

Super easy to do. I recommend building it all.

Im already looking for my next build! Still trying to decide between a blackout or 6.8spc.

If we were closer, I'd take you up on the offer.

For best performance for money spent...ARP barrel mid-length gas, Aero Precision upper and lower(use their lpk) CMC trigger, Nordic Components hand guard, RRA has a very nice and sturdy adj.stock, adjustable gas block, boron bcg, try different grips to find what you like before you buy. Consider a 18" barrel, seems to be a very good choice for what your are wanting. Also suggest a 1-7 or 1-8 twist, allows for heavier higher BC bullets.