I just bought a 40 foot shipping container for my deer lease and need some ideas. I plan on studding it out, spray insulating it and putting paneling on the walls. Want to go the cheapest route first and foremost. I’m guessing wood studs would be cheaper but not sure I want to screw them to the container and making thousands of holes in it. Would an adhesive work better? Can’t imagine a wood to metal adhesive would last forever but I’m thinking it would last long enough to basically build a tight frame inside. Once everything is framed out I can’t imagine it moving too much. Has anyone else taken on this task? Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. Just don’t want to mess up this investment.

If you do not plan on moving it, the urethane wood glues will last as long as the paint they are bonded to.

Do opposite sides at the same time and cut a couple of 2Xs to wedge them the studs in place until the glue dries. The tighter the 2Xs are to the side, the stronger the bond will be.

Follow the directions on the glue: As odd as it sounds, mist the wood with water before applying the glue. Urethane curing is moisture activated


If you plan on moving it around, then consider self-tapping screws with a rubber washer, like used to assemble steel buildings.

I’d still throw a few of the appropriate self tapping screw with rubber washer on the outside along with construction adhesive on the inside.

But, depending on how you frame out the inside, you may not need anything at all. Think of it as framing in a house. Build the walls outside of the container, slide them into place and screw/nail down the bottom plate. Do this on each side and brace them so they remain true. You can build your ceiling in sections so working with them is easier. Slide them up between the walls and secure them to the top plate.

I wouldn’t use 2x4’s sticking out 4 inches. Turn them on the flats or just use 2x2’s. Spray foam on a container is pretty pricey and honestly a waste of money considering you won’t be living in it and worrying about the energy bill. Stuff R-13 insulation in the walls and cover them with something between 9/32 - 7/16 sheathing and then you can hand stuff wherever you want. I would do the same procedure as the walls on the floor with insulation. Those floors let a lot of cold creep in.

Spray foam is expensive. I was quoted around $3,000 for a 40' high box container.

PM me with any questions. I’ve built two out and looking at doing a third this or next year

inside frame isnt structural or load bearing so do walls and ceiling on 24” centers. bat insulation works good but closed cell Foam is superior.

I appreciate the input and Bobo, that looks awesome. I was going to buy a spray foam kit from home depot and do the insulation myself only because I heard that regular insulation would sweat in the walls causing black mold. Not sure if that’s totally true. Looks like Bobo used regular insulation.

Make sure it has ventilation, they are air tight and don't breathe. If not you'll have mildew issues. You can thank me later.

Insulation will be mandatory. I have one. When I open the doors in the summer, I have to step back from the heat. Bobo, that’s pretty impressive.

Your imagination is as big as your check book.

A New Zealand man spent $137,000 building a 330-square-foot tiny house from shipping containers.

That looks great!

these are cheap and easy to install

https://www.amazon.com/Mytee-Produc...amp;hvtargid=pla-1730259782527&psc=1

Thank you for the prodex insulation info! Way more reasonable

A friend has done something similar. 2 40' and a 20' high cubes, gives about 800 sq Ft goal. Arranged in a "C", with 40' wide trusses across the big patio area. Removed the doors on the 20'er in the middle, and welded to the 40's. The extra foot and a half in height allows wiring , plumbing, and AC ducting

Thought about buying a older mobile home? After all, you’re not looking for long term habitation. Unless you own the land…….

MH is garbage compared to a converted container. Container is also MUCH easier to move and relocate.

Ours was simple. One sidewall with studs On the flat / wide side of 2x4's, then ceiling studs (have to prop both of em up while you frame the other wall), then other side wall and end wall studs, insulation, wiring, etc. and nothing is actually attached to the sides or roof of the container itself. at the opening, we built a wall about 2' in, with a regular door & a/c / heat unit. 1/2 inch plywood on walls and ceiling, then primed, caulked and painted. This is a 20 footer im talking about. we did use some liquid nail on the sidewalls but there's really no need. Just two twin beds down one side. We have, heat, a/c, 3 burner stovetop, toaster oven, griddle, microwave, tv and satellite. Pretty much only room for 2 though.

nothing more maintenance free then a shipping container. Also nothing more bug or mouse proof.

I stay in a 16 foot cargo trailer, it’s the next best thing to a container. Never had a bug or mouse in it, only have to seal the roof every few years, and it’s easily portable where as a container isn’t.

As with all things deer lease related, portability is the key for me. I was very close to buying a 20' container and finishing it out. The lack of an end game stopped me. If I had room to store one in the event I didn't need it for a season or two, no doubt about it a finished out container wins. I built a one man bunk house with electricity and AC that I can haul on a conventional trailer.

CCBIRDDOGMAN has done it right IMO. When I was laying out how I would finish a 20', I had the same idea, only to push the entry wall in farther for UTV storage. All I'm looking for is room to sleep and change clothes, comfortably.

Building out a container is by far the best thing I did. I have a 40’ and built out 27’ for living with bathroom and all. I park my ranger in the back. Other than minor maintenance, it has been nice.

What’s the actual inside width? I have been considering this option for my RZR but need at least 76 inches inside.

I’m not sure on exact measurements. Mine is framed and walls and ceilings are finished like the living quarters for more room. My Ranger has doors on it so I get in and out fairly easy. I’ll have to measure next time I’m up there. It’s nice having a “garage” for your lease vehicle.

40ft high cube

Finished interior width with 2x4 walls, 85", 2x3 walls 86"

I am going to frame mine out with 2x3 footers and headers with 2x4 studs in the ribs. The ceiling will be 2x4s tied into the walls with hurricane clips, only because I am using screws versus nails for construction. Once the walls, ceiling, wiring and plumbing are in place, I am going to have the member from the fishing forum spray foam it 100% to the face of the studs, because I will be living in mine full time once it is complete. There will be no exterior windows or doors, entry will be thru the original doorway, for security purposes. If you use closed cell spray foam, there is no reason to have ventilation between the interior and exterior walls, because there is no way for the condensation to form. The ventilation for the interior is simple, I will be using an automatic controlled exhaust system with a humidistat, a dual zone dehumidifier mini split system with heat pump.

Condensation is your biggest enemy, so no gas appliances, not to mention the carbon monoxide poisoning. Loose batt insulation is a no go as well for the same reasons, it allows condensation to form between the walls. I have researched this ad nauseum, if you want to PM me, I will get you my contact information.