I put a drop away on my bow. I hope you’re happy.

I bet you will like it, I cannot remember anyone ever going back to a biscuit/capture type rest after getting a drop away.

You did the right thing


I remember the first drop away rest i put on my bow.....it was life changing. IMO people spend too much on sights and not enough on a rest, that's backwards logic. I can glue some matchsticks on the riser to use as a pin as long as the rest is good I'll shoot accuratly.


The capture type rests are a good idea in theory, but they are not conducive for good accuracy.

Well it’s already cost me a couple of vanes and you can see where the vanes are slicing up the moleskin. But my bare shafts are flying real good and penetrating deep as ever. I did some google research, I think I might have set it up too low on my down cable so it don’t fall fast enough.

That’s the problem changing stuff on your bow mid season.

Which rest did you go with?

It’s a trophy ridge with the micro adjustments. I forget the model but it’s a $110 rest, definitely not the cheapest in the store.

I just read about this exact same issue with a QAD, diagnosed as attached too low on the cable.

Well I set mine up so I would not have to trim off the excess. I guess that was the wrong idea.

It did not come with instructions.

My QAD had the same issues, move it up the string and it should be in time. My Hamskea is a limb driven rest which at first I was extremely skeptical about but so far it’s been good, but I think I prefer it served into the cable. Also like the ability to flip up the rest for better containment which I can’t do with the Hamskea.

Yeah I like to pre-[censored] the rest. I shoot short arrows for my draw, I pretty much have to if I want to shoot anything less than a 250 spine. I pretty much have to pre-[censored] my rest for some of my fixed blades.

I guess you can’t put c-o-c-k in without getting censored. What a world

Limb connection is good as long as it doesn't walk along the limb like I have seen quite a few do if attached where the limb s tapered a good bit. For a cable driven rest the easiest way to time one is served into the down cable. Tie a serving at the bottom of the grip, split the cable and insert the control cord through it. Draw the bow back a few times and the control cable will pull to where ti needs to be then cut and melt it off like the end of a d-loop to finish it off. Takes longer to type it out for me than it does to do one.

With the little plastic clamps it is a little more of a pain getting it times right. I wondering about the timing of the rest shoot with a fletching pointed straight down and there should be no contact with the rest at all, if it is there is a timing issue

Most bows heights for the rest will have the arrow at the same height as the Berger hole (threaded hole through the riser that you screw the rest into from the opposite side than the arrow).

Too far down the cable can cause problems and I have seen some put the control too close to the rest and break that string, a little below but near the bottom of the grip works well from what I have seen and worked with

When hunting I always have the rest clicked up so it captures the arrow, if I have an arrow knocked it the rest is in the up position with my QAD.

QAD is one of the best things I ever did to improve the accuracy and repeatability on my bow.

Well the closest I have come is to move it as far down as possible. By setting it up all the way down the cable, using the whole pull string, I think I have finally got it timed. At least as far as I can tell, by the sound of the shot and no new damage to the moleskin as far as I can tell. Interestingly, that puts it about 1” below my grip as per most recommendation on the web. They literally packed it with exactly the right amount to time it.

I did use a QAD string clip to install it, I’m sure that doesn’t help. But it’s what I got.

So now I gotta put some fresh moleskin on my rest and see if it gets cut up or not.

Edit- I was able to re-stick the sliced up moleskin where it was sticking out, a bit shredded but it taped back down nicely enough. Ran a few arrows from the lightest to the heaviest, none of it peeled back up. I think I’m good.

I was all geared up to take it back to bass pro, too.

I wouldn’t let the guys at bass pro screw in a stabilizer let alone set up anything vital on my bows.

Yeah I never let them touch it. I took it to the range and did everything on my own. I have nothing but bad experiences dealing with their archery department. But they have a big parking lot so I can get in and out easy in my rig, and they usually have a range I can use, and pretty much a no question return policy so I still shop there pretty regular.

As a matter of fact I popped in to Cabelas in Owatonna, MN to grab some Saunders cable slides for my bows, I brought my bow to make sure they at least fit this one, first thing this a hole does is jam a Allen key in my whisker biscuit and loosen it. I mean quick, with the exact right size and everything not a warning or a question or anything. I’m like what the hell are you doing? He reminded me I said I wanted a Dropaway on the phone I’m like hey I said I’d like to look at them. I wanted to kick his [censored], I think it was a test from the Almighty.

It wasn’t even the right bolt. It was the windage adjustment. Went from shooting 4 different arrow setups like darts, to literally shooting around corners. Blew my mind.


I bought my Dropaway at a different location because f that guy. But it’s also why I got a micro drive Dropaway to begin with. I don’t want to deal with the headache if re tuning my arrows with my whisker biscuit, or anything really without some type of micro drive adjustments. When I finally hit the biscuit dialed in the only way I could be sure I moved it at all is by where my broadheads hit.

Easy micro adjustments are almost a necessity to get your broadheads and field points to the same POA much past 30 yards.

It’s not a timing issue after all. It’s whether I pull hard into the back wall before I release the arrow. If I’m not pulling hard enough into the back wall, it’s not pulling the rest back far enough to snap back down on the release. So then, it doesn’t drop until the vanes smack it. Cost me a few vanes too.

I need a rest that does not remain “cocked” in the up position.

I thought the drop away rest was supposed to be more forgiving than a whisker biscuit. Yeah, right, hahaha.

You've got a mess going on. You really need to go to a real archery shop and get your stuff set up correctly.

I know. The only legit place I can think of is three hours from home. And let me tell you about Cabelas in Owatonna. That’s not even the half, there’s more and none good. I just don’t want to waste my time telling, I know y’all have heard it all before.

Edit- I’m not taking this test to an archery shop. I will just as soon return it to bass pro and buy my equipment from the shop that is providing me withadequate customer service.

If they are not willing to hire/pay for a good bow wrench then they can eat the cost in returns as far as I am concerned. I’m not gonna insult my shop by walking in there with a bass pro shops rest to set up.

i don't think thats insulting to bring in a rest that you can't get timed.



There is a real problem in the archery industry with a general lack of well rounded-know how in pro shops, never mind the goons at Bass Pro or Cabela's. They shouldn't even be allowed to sell bows let alone set one up.


It's been my experience that most bow shops are staffed with with guys that are decent shooters but at best, have a very modest amount of hunting under their belt. They will bullshyte and half-truth their way thru a conversation about setting up a bow 1. to sell a product and 2. because they don't know any different. A shooter isn't the guy who you need to ask advice from on the best set up for hunting and you don't wanna ask a hunter what the best set up is for 3-D comps or target shooting.


Nothing wrong with your rest, I would take it to the shop 3 hours away and have them properly set it up and tune it for you and leave it at that. Its worlds better than the whisker biscuit and your just having some trouble shooting issues.

I only go there when I get routed through. I will shoot the whisker biscuit before I spend 6 hours on the road on my only day off.

Midwest Archery has helped me enough for little to nothing, and deserve my business.

I do think I’ve about got it figured out though.

I agree with Bryan and TX there is nothing wrong with taking it to a shop with that rest to get it right. They set it up right and gain a customer for other needs when time arises sometimes there is a shop charge but that should be expected. Happens quite often. I know one shop near a Bass Pro shop that has a sign something to the effect Want it right get it here, want to see us when it is wrong, go to Bass Pro.

Ok well I got it timed. Now I have to get it tuned good times.

You’ll have it shooting good in no time.

Get they this season and for next year we will work on your arrow and broadhead choices….

Next season I will have another rig. Probably something 80 pounds.

I tried to shoot 100 arrows without a single failure. I never made it through 20 shots. Close range watching the needle pass the mark. The last arrow I shot didn’t drop the launcher at all.

I started with 11x 300 spine and 10x 250 spine arrows. I have 7 300’s and 5 250’s left with undamaged vanes.

I returned the Dropaway. I’m gonna shoot a whisker biscuit until I find a.quality fixed rest, old school 2 prong or something.