You got me on that one LOL

Putin price hike.

Worst advice I’ve ever heard, just behind a guy telling me years ago to buy Iraqi Dinars

While it’s my understanding the price to be paid for a shorter bolt lift (60 degrees for example) is a heavier and tighter spring on the firing pin. Makes sense that less travel produces less tension unless the spring is made heavier. Too light a spring under less tension and misfires become possible.

However, the bolt on the one rifle that I own with a 60-degree lift (Browning A-bolt Medallion) lifts easier than most of the others with a 90-degree lift. That makes me believe there are other design characteristics at play. I can’t say the length of the bolt handle is any longer on the Browning, which of course would make it easier to lift the bolt handle.

While I don’t own a Tikka, I suspect the 60-degree bolt lifts as easy as that of my Browning.

If you’re looking at Savage, have you considered a Ruger American? Similar to a savage but it has a one piece bolt. Fit/finish not as good as a Tikka but you get the 70 degree bolt throw and accuracy on par with Savage at a Savage Axis price point. It’s a good little gun on a tight budget. Also available in a lot of different camo patters, cerakote, stainless, etc. of course you pay more for the features.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/938314079

I'm a Tikka and SAKO fan. I've owned many rifles over the years and have replaced many a trigger and glass bedded/free floated the barrel to make them shoot sub MOA. When I shot my first Tikka, I was blown away by the butter smooth bolt, a crisp trigger and the accuracy. You might pay a little more for Tikka/SAKO, but there is no need to replace trigger or glass bed them because they shoot lights out right out of the box. You can easily spend $300 on a good trigger and $250-$400 on glass bedding. The Tikka also shoots many factory loads very well. On top of that, the Tikka/SAKO are very light weight typically in the 6.5 pound range without a scope. They are not range guns with heavy barrels, but if you are just a deer hunter making shots within 400 yards - they are great.

Do a load development for them, and they are frequently 1/2 MOA rifles for three consecutive shots.

I have taken unmodified Tikka T-3's to 1000 yards with ease. Just do it, while allowing the barrel to cool.

I traded into a NIB Marlin XS7 Stainless 270, built in Mayfield Kentucky umm gotta be 2 years ago when I decided to find a place to hunt again, and did not want to drag my wood blue guns thru the mud of the new Neches River project. So I dragged out all the left over ancient factory 270 ammo to get my "touch" back with and burn up all the leftover junk ammo so I could start over.

My surprise was how good the rifle shot at 100 yards since I hadn't pulled a trigger in a couple years Only problem was the semi ancient ammo was a lot dirtier going on filthy than I remembered it. Finally I stuck a fired round in the chamber, but hit the bolt handle repeatedly with the butt of my hand until the spent round ejected..along with the ejector parts .
I did shoot the rifle the last day on my hunt at SLRSP last January anticipating a hard freeze and falling ice and killed a nice fat porker in single shot mode, then using a cleaning rod to tap the fired round out of the chamber as I was hustling to pack before the ice storm hit.

FWIW, the new to me dark pink chamber cleaner I found at Atwoods works better than anything I've ever used, plus a New non plastic metal bristle chamber brush brought the inside of the chamber back to sparkling clean , and now day a spent round of clean brass will usually just slide out of the open chamber when I point the barrel up at a 45*angle. I did not even have to use the cleaning rod to clear the chamber the last time I went to the range after the January hunting trip.

Couple weeks later after the SLRP hunt I took the rifle back to my old friend in Buffalo and asked if he could "fixit". So far he's found 2 replacement parts of the 3 missing parts but has yet call me that he'd to found an ejector spring...but then I haven't called or bugged him about it about it either. Now I'm shopping for a place to hunt in the TPW Lottery, and I'd like to get this rifle put back together so I can keep my wood /blue shooter's out of the weather.

Ya'll got any ideas where or who to take this rifle to?
Ron

I traded into a NIB Marlin XS7 Stainless 270, built in Mayfield Kentucky umm gotta be 2 years ago when I decided to find a place to hunt again, and did not want to drag my wood blue guns thru the mud of the new Neches River project. So I dragged out all the left over ancient factory 270 ammo to get my "touch" back with and burn up all the leftover junk ammo so I could start over.

My surprise was how good the rifle shot at 100 yards since I hadn't pulled a trigger in a couple years Only problem was the semi ancient ammo was a lot dirtier going on filthy than I remembered it. Finally I stuck a fired round in the chamber, but hit the bolt handle repeatedly with the butt of my hand until the spent round ejected..along with the ejector parts .
I did shoot the rifle the last day on my hunt at SLRSP last January anticipating a hard freeze and falling ice and killed a nice fat porker in single shot mode, then using a cleaning rod to tap the fired round out of the chamber as I was hustling to pack before the ice storm hit.

FWIW, the new to me dark pink chamber cleaner I found at Atwoods works better than anything I've ever used, plus a New non plastic metal bristle chamber brush brought the inside of the chamber back to sparkling clean , and now day a spent round of clean brass will usually just slide out of the open chamber when I point the barrel up at a 45*angle. I did not even have to use the cleaning rod to clear the chamber the last time I went to the range after the January hunting trip.

Couple weeks later after the SLRP hunt I took the rifle back to my old friend in Buffalo and asked if he could "fixit". So far he's found 2 replacement parts of the 3 missing parts but has yet call me that he'd to found an ejector spring...but then I haven't called or bugged him about it about it either. Now I'm shopping for a place to hunt in the TPW Lottery, and I'd like to get this rifle put back together so I can keep my wood /blue shooter's out of the weather.

Ya'll got any ideas where or who to take this rifle to?

Awful Tempting to try and go back the SLRSP. 10 + hours on the road is a killer though. That last day I saw a 6-8-9 critter herd of big fat WT's eat my corn despite the fresh hog blood on it for almost an hour at about 150 yards and bit my lip bloody 'cause they were Off Limits on that Hunt ....and this year they are listed as legal game. Story of y m Life for sure.
Ron

FYI
The name of that "pink" chamber cleaner is Pro Shop Products "1 Step CLP" gun cleaner and lubricant. At Atwoods the 8 oz bottle cost $10, and I've never seen it anywhere else either.
One of my summer chores is gonna be going thru all my old ammo and cleaning it with this stuff on a old wash cloth & NOT need the WD 40 & fine grit steel wool I usually use, cause it really works. Then burn all of the stuff up at the range in September & October. If I can finally get the Marlin's missing extractor fixed I'll be ready to spend the rest of the time at the range south of Oakwood.

Ain't gonna get skunked this Fall....somehow some where , but ain't gonna take my wood blue shooters to the Neches either when I can paddle the pirogue with the Marlin.
Ron

I've got 2 other shooters that I have not done anything with except to keep 'em clean after an annual trip to the range. I backed into a almost new Tikka T3 Swede from a guy in Pennsylvania who wanted the T3 composite UL gun that my shoulder would not tolerate back in the days before I got that fixed in a round robin swap umm couple years ago that I have never spent any serious time with except to zero it with SST's, but the 80's era M70 Fwt 7x57 is the most likely to get the nod for a do all/go anywhere gun, since I found a Winchester factory black rubber stock that is supposed to fit. It's metal work also has been loveingly slicked up and really likes SB ammo. Too many decisions.
Ron

I can’t imagine not using the T3 Swede. Compared to the Marlin you’re trying to fix it’s a wonderful piece of equipment. Lower recoil than the .270 as well.

just an update... went with the Weatherby Vanguard posted a stock photo for reference

Great choice, swap the trigger out for a Trigger Tech. Buy GOOD FACTORY ammo.

DONT SCRIMP ON THE SCOPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The most accurate rifle in my collection is a Weatherby Vanguard .270. It's also not as picky as others I own in terms of what loads it shoots best. Great, two-stage trigger straight from the factory.

Vortex?

Buzz, how much do you consider scrimp, considering he’s going out to only 300.

well, good point, just not a whortex

Personally, I really like the Trijicon 3-9 with a Mil reticle on hunting rifle if you want to keep it light.

https://www.eurooptic.com/Trijicon-...1-in-Matte-Black-Riflescope-2900042.aspx

I bought my first Savage when I got out of the service (early 60's) have owned a bunch, what you are hunting really don't care what your gun looks like, they tend to run away from Savage's, never had an extraction issue.

Re: my Marlin labeled Kentucky built SS 270.

Couple months ago I ran into a semi retired gunsmith from Houston who back in the day who bought and converted & sporterized WW II German Army Mausers for a living, and made a friend.
Took my SS Marlin in and asked him to find me a ejector. He ran the traps on the computer for over an an hour and found ZERO Savage design ejector springs in stock any where. Something to do with Ruger buying out ? Remington, and who knows who else, but the consensus is Ruger owns the Savage design these days, and is supposed to release a sizable quantity of the these fit's all Savage design ejectors sometime this fall.

FWIW I really like the fit and feel of this Marlin labeled rifle, as it fits me, it shoots factory ammo with no didiling needed and holds the Zero point, and the "plastic" stock fits me perfectly, and the trigger has needed no "tuning" . I paid less than $300 NIB for the Marlin Stainless 270 to use solely as a rough use rifle, and expect once the Savage design ejector issue is "normalized" all these issues will be a memory....but I'll buy a stash of ejectors just in case.
Ron

Savage is like a Kia Rio of the rifle world. Don't over-spend for it and don't use it very much and you'll love it. if you really use it a bunch, get a Tikka. If your budget is at the High Country level, get a Tikka. If you only have $250 and the rifle will live it's whole life with less than 40 shots being fired from it at large targets under a feeder at less than 150 yards, then pretty much any gun ever made will work fine and the Savage fits that description also.

Tikka CTR 20" in 308 is a fantastic hunting rifle if you're wanting a heavier barrel gun.

What scope, for hunting out to 300 yards on top of a weatherby? Just about anything will work. Fixed 4x, 3-9x on sale on black friday for $99...deer won't care which one you use