Can a Browning trail camera be adjusted to where it doesn't take a photo of minor movements like a fluttering leaf? I have a Browning Dark Ops and a Recon Force Edge. I would hate to buy a different brand since I've had good luck with Browning, plus they are easy to set up.

I will be following this as I have the same issue with my Browning cameras. They take good pictures and seem to last, but lots of times it is just leaves blowing in the wind or shadows changing.

Three thoughts.
*No, in my experience, you can't make a camera trigger to a deer and not a leaf.
*You can minimize exposure to foliage. Put them up higher, or mow in front of camera, or find another location, or do various things to reduce exposure to leaves.
*You are both lucky to have such a minor problem. Are you downloading the card on a computer? I find it is no big deal to skip by pics with just leaves. If you owned other brand of cameras, you would wish you had such a minor problem as you do with a Browning, just getting the occasional picture of leaves blowing. I would rather have too many pics than too few.

Just posted this on another thread. Glad to know that I am not the only one with Browning .

I run a lot of trial cameras and use them year round. The Browning Strikeforce has been my favorite due to the quality of images (day and night) with the best flash range. I typically get about 2 years of service from a camera before they die. In the past couple of years, I have experienced lots of problems with the Brownings and it mainly goes back to the sensors. The most common sensor problem is that they take too many pictures with no game present. I guess the sensor will go off by cloud movement or leaves moving. When this occurs, I will get hundreds of images of "nothing" and it eventually wears out the batteries. The other problem is much less frequent, but sometimes I get a camera that will not take very many images. I rely on camera data a lot in placing stands and hunting my target deer. It is disappointing to watch several deer walk in front of the camera and when you check the camera - there are no images. I now will place/stack two cameras right on top of each other in my front yard and test them. Some cameras will catch a butterfly flying by and others will not even catch the mailman driving down the street. After many years, I have purchased my last Browning camera. I like cameras with good image quality, acceptable trigger speed, good flash range (80-100 feet) and reasonable sensitivity. I'm really getting to like the ones that capture short video clips. I'm liking the Stealth Cams and Reveal these days.

Like so many, I've had the same issue...captured over 11,000 images in a 3 week period last month!!!

As noted, you can't tell the camera on what to trigger. Placement can be critical, also as noted. You may need to mow the area and trim limbs if wind blowing the foliage is triggering the camera. I have also found that many cameras have sensor FOVs larger than the camera's image FOV. You may try taping over the later edges of the sensor so that you are certain that what triggers the camera is inside the image FOV at the time.

I read this from Browning. It is very interesting and seems contrary to what folks are claiming.

https://browningtrailcameras.zendes...21947-How-a-Motion-Heat-PIR-Sensor-Works

My last Browning camera died. I'm done.

I recently purchased a Moultrie cellular camera when the price dropped to what I consider a good price for a conventional model - $75. It has three PIR sensitivity settings- High, Medium, and Low, the first time I've seen this feature on a camera. I haven't been using it long enough to tell any difference in sensitivity between three settings. However, I've never had a camera that wasn't suspect to false triggers from moving leaves and such. I just do my best to position them in areas where leaves and limbs are more distant from the camera.

One mistake you can make is to place the camera on too small a tree where the wind can make the entire camera move and create false triggers.

As for camera reliability, just about every one I've owned had issues over time. Most of the time it was a on/off switch that just became worn over time so that I had to "fiddle" with it to work. Once I got it to power up, all was good so try this before tossing one in the trash. I've also had good luck reviving electronics by spaying the switches with a little electrical contact spray cleaner.

IMHO, it's important to keep in mind that few electronics are going to be reliable after they've been left outside in the heat, cold, and rain for months if not years on end.

The discussion has me thinking that my next "experiment" might be to modify a plastic ammo box to make it a sealed enclosure for one of my cameras. In fact, making an enclosure for "home brew" cameras was common back in the day before you could buy them in the stores. I made my first home brew camera from a plastic handgun case.

IME with other PIR cams it has been heat in motion...cedars are bad at holding heat in Texas and blowing in the wind, weeds/vegetation in summer time temps, shadows in motion...feeder shadow in midday as the sun moves west, shiny feeders with sun reflecting off them...etc. Facing cams due north or due south of the target zone helps, setting them high enough to angle downward into bare ground helps, some of the older cams have sensor adjustments to help, etc. We have been extremely hot this summer, extremely dry and with very high winds....all are bad combos IME for false triggers. If you get good nighttime image and your cams do this only in daytime then it is related to something I posted above or something similar with this extreme heat we have had.