I've been saving my brass from my AR and finally decided to get the dies and reload it. I'm not experience with military brass and am trying to determine if this brass has a military primer crimp. I've punched the spent primers and inspected the pocket, doesn't look like there is any crimp. Is there something for definitive to look for ?

This is a good investment

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...age-gauge-sku100015613-71030-150244.aspx

Some have four crimp indentions but most have a rim of brass that is around edge of pocket.

Probably a million pictures online of what to look for I am guessing

OK - well that helps confirm it... I have a small primer pocket reamer and it's getting very little resistance in the pocket. The rim is obviously polished, just seemed as if it wasn't making a significant difference so questioning the process. Looks like I have some work to do... Thank you !

Sounds like they are not crimped. If they are the tool wood cut out more brass and the primers are noticeably harder to push out. Prefer the RCBS pocket "uniformer" over any "reamer". I swage first then cut with the uniformer.

If the brass is from LC directly like Federal or Winchester boxed, it will be crimped. If it was loaded by one of the new ammo companies with brass they bought from LC it probably isn't, if it is once fired brass loaded by one of the "remanufacture ammo" companies it will already have the crimp removed.
Federal ran the LC plant facility for years but Winchester took over operation a few years ago.
Black Hills crimps some of their brass in 308, 223, 300WM. Not sure if it is all crimped. That is all I have shot is specific loadings.

I got an rcbs swagger tool. it pushes the crimp back vs cutting. Not sure what is better but I was just concerned I would over do it. You'd be surprised what I've screwed up before when cutting brass.

I cut crimps out.

The cutter will bottom out in the primer pocket. Just envision a cylinder standing up. All you're doing is beveling the mouth of the cylinder. The cutter cannot go any deeper than the base of the primer pocket. It does not have cutting edges for that surface, which would be the bottom of the cylinder. That is what a uniformer does, as GasGuzzler mentioned.

It is LC, Federal boxed... I can see the crimp ring around the primer... but frankly it is so sloppy and inconsistent and then the reamer was removing so little brass I was wondering... but yes it is crimped and I am now questioning if it's worth my time to fix it...

If you don't want to mess with it, I will buy the brass from you.

Hey JG... I purchased the primer pocket gauges DStroud suggested as those are some good tools to have and I'm going to "fix" about 25 of the LC cases. If, I can't get them to work I'll bring the rest (100+) over.

I got the small primer pocket gauge today from Brownell's, the large gauge is on backorder. This is one of those tools I don't how I reloaded all these years without. Thank you DStroud for the recommendation. I measured the cases I used my reamer on and the primer pocket crimp was successfully removed, so I have some usable LC brass. Very nice...

Good to hear.

Follow-up question... I've got the new reamer to remove the crimp and I've processed about 100 cases. About half of them have a crease midway down the case that does not come out with FL sizing (although case dimensions check out)...

Given:
- I'm using a non-adjustable gas block... my reload round will be 69g Sierra MatchKing bullets over H322.

1) Any issues with reloading the creased cases ? Looks like some folks do and some don't....
2) Seems like I need a heavier buffer weight so I don't crease anymore ?

Thoughts / comments... ?

You say "crease "
It's not some of the cannelured cases from the old blank
cartridges is it ?
Those are not supposed to be reloaded
Trying to load up full power ammo will cause
case failure

These are cases I've shot and collected, and they are not blanks.... the crease or dent is caused by the deflection off the upper after ejection.

Run em.

Under +55,000 psi, that dent will come back out.

More cosmetic than anything. After they've been FL resized, and loaded, they will shoot fine.

Thank you... is the crease a buffer weight problem... if the gas block were adjustable, I'd address it there..

Where is the brass ejecting? 3-4 o'clock, or forward of that?

Installing an adjustable gas block takes about 5 minutes, I don't understand why you haven't already.

I agree that the primer pocket gauge is worth it's weight in gold.

Cases eject 3-5 o'clock.. the crease if from hitting the deflector in front of the forward assist.... Haven't upgraded to the adjustable gas block 'cause my bench already has several projects on it... including adjusting the adjustable gas block on the Grendel...

3 to 5 o'clock is where it is supposed to be ejecting.

The reason to go to an adjustable gas block is to reduce gas. Yours is getting just the right amount of gas.

OK - after processing 100 cases on my workstation using a sharp reamer and primer pocket uniform bit..... I now officially hate removing primer pocket crimp... of all the brass prep processes - I hate this one the most... funny though, if I were to start teaching someone how to reload, I'd probably start with military brass that has to be prep'd head to neck...

There is a reason a lot of people swage the crimped primer pockets. Easier on the fingers, faster, and if you really want to you can still use a primer pocket uniformer on it but I have not found that necessary. I have done tens of thousands of .223, .308, 9mm, and even some military .38 special which I learned was once used by MP's. I used an RCBS Swage for small lots but quickly switched to a Dillon for volume. I am still trimming on a drill powered Forster with a 3 in 1 trimmer... I keep eyeing those Girauds...

My last batch was 1500 pieces. I sized them first, then measured length to cull the short ones. I swage AND cut (uniform) the pockets. I trim and uniform on a Frankford Arsenal machine. They work so much better in a turret or progressive when fully prepped and it only has to be done once.