I have found a gunsmith, live oak accuracy, who is willing to re-barrel my tikka action into a 6.5x47 Lapua. He has Brux barrels as his preferred brand so I'm deciding to go with that since he seems supremely confident in this combination. Honestly, i was also hearing the voice of some on this forum regarding a tikka action + cut rifle barrel.
Most of the main parts have been chosen already, just unsure of the barrel details; tikka factory action, xray chassis and brux barrel

Based on the caliber, any suggestions on the following barrel details?
Contour - I own a 26" savage varmint and a 22" (i think) tikka varmint profile barrels. I saw one called "light palma" that seems interesting but only see the dimensions. I wanna shoot up to 150rds a day like i can my current 308 set up.
Length - I'm thinking 24"
flutes - are they worth it? weight on this style rifle doesn't bother me too much
muzzle threading - I'm actually leaning towards no and do only an 11 deg target crown

Just my opinion……

Length: I like 24” but mine is 6mm, not 6.5, if that makes a difference.
Flutes: If weight isn’t a concern then looking cool is about all that’s left which might help in resale if you ever go that route.
Threads: Yes. Brakes help with accuracy as well as recovery time on target. You also may wish to look into a tuner at some point.

I have no opinion on your build but Scott does excellent work. At least from my sample of 1.

I run a 6.5x47 L as my competition rifle. It's a great cartridge. The Tikka actions will require the barrel chamber area to be reduced down with anything over about a #4 contour to fit the action. Light Palma is a good contour for a target rifle in the medium 6.5 rounds. Go with an 8" twist for the 140 class bullets. Increase your twist to a 1:7.5" or 1:7" if you plan to shoot anything heavier. Barrel length will get you velocity of about 25 fps per inch. I run a 23" and run the 140's at 2740 fps and the 130's at 2860 fps. I would avoid the flutes, due to barrel stress issues. Muzzle threading totally up to you. The recoil on a 6.5x47 isn't bad, but a brake cuts that recoil about 40%-50%. It's a great cartridge with 10-15 reloads on the Lapua brass. So, it's a good one for reloaders.

Scott will build you a good rifle. Scott was the one gunsmith I talked to about my 6.5 Grendel build that said metric threads "no problem," that little CZ 527 is one of my most accurate rifles and light weight at 7.2lbs scoped, loaded including sling ready to hunt.

If weight is not a worry, skip the flutes they are mostly for looks if not concerned about weight. I would thread it though and probably add one of his breaks as well of opening up the option of shooting suppressed. Profile is up to you, we used a straight contour Obermeyer barrel on mine and he turned it to custom contour to fit what I wanted and fit the stock free floated.

Barrel length is a trade off to me, shorter is stiffer for the same contour but less velocity.

Thanks for the info...

Based on the above, I'm definitely going with 24" barrel and something close to a light palma.

Forgot to ask about twist...I see myself shooting this alot and even hunting a little with it so base plan was to shoot 123 to 140 gr bullets. Bought a bunch of 130's to start. Would i still be able to get good accuracy from a 123gr bullets in something like a 7.5 twist? is the 7.5 or 7 needed for 147gr? I see a 147 eld for a good price online and don't think I need or want to shoot anything heavier.

my issue with the muzzle end is not the brake itself but I hate cleaning the crown of my current rifle. It's a giant chore to remove the action and brake just the clean the muzzle end. So i guess this caliber is fairly mild in kick? I only have the 308 and 223 mentioned above for comparison.

I would just go with an 8" twist, or even an 8.5" twist. Mine is an 8.5" twist. The faster twist helps on the heavier bullets like the 153 and 156 grain bullets. But a 1:8" or 1:8.5" is fine.

Brux makes some of the finest barrels available...do not hesitate to use them. They are always my first pick.

I am also of the opinion we are in a time where over twist seems to be the trend. I use 8.5 twist barrels in the x47 (and shoot either 123 - 140 Bergers or Lapua bullets) but an 8 would be fine for what you are asking it to do...but so would a 7.5...I would not go any faster than 7.5 and I'd only do that if I planned on shooting the 150's but in my opinion that case doesn't have enough capacity to really make the 150's shine. My current x47 has an 8 twist barrel.

I brake or suppress everything because I don't like recoil. Speaking of recoil, it should fall in between your 223 and 308 but lean closer to the 308. It's not bad at all.

It's going to be a nice stick!

Make sure you bring it up to Valley View a few times!

Don't forget the ammo.

Thread the muzzle. Today you want a target crown, in a few months you might be screwing a can on it. Leave yourself that option.

Still too soon. Maybe I'll forget it on purpose so you can't see how terrible I shoot.
Somewhat more seriously, I still got some time to decide. I'm unsure about this one. Might be cool to have a higher end brake that makes the recoil really soft. The one Live Oak make looks effective.



Do you take the brake off every time you clean your rifle?

No, not every time...I clean way more than most though. I take it off about 1:5 or 1:7 ratio. In the past I have thrown the whole thing in an ultrasonic and clean it...then I use chemicals to clean the crown/muzzle.

I'm a Bartlein lover. Never seen a bad one, they always end up shooting 1/4. .224" to big .30 cal, they just do a great job. Bartlein is 5R, Brux is 4R, I believe.

Rem Varmint contour is a good mid weight. Spiral flute it and lose a full pound. I've shot lots of fluted barrels and they all have done just fine.

24" will make speed, if you don't mind the length.

Your Tikka bolt has a large firing pin. 6.5X47 is a small rifle primer. You don't "have" to swap the pin, but I would.

Absolutely thread the muzzle. A good break, such as Scott's will make recoil very small. It is a fine cartridge that is boringly precise. I built one for my daughter.

This is basically what the gunsmith suggested so it's now on the build list. Btw to all looking for someone who bushes bolts, Live Oak does but doesn't list it on his site.

If he does it why would you be looking for someone else to do it?

looks like I need to clarify. I am definitely having Scott bush my bolt for a small rifle primers while he's doing everything else. No i think I'm having my mind change from here and gonna get the muzzle threaded.

You’re post was fine. My reading skills are lacking.