We have downhole tools with reverse threads that involve conductors. Three pieces. Conductor running through two. Only way to twist them together without twisting the hell out of the conductor wire is reverse threads on one end of the middle piece and its counterpart.

But, yeah, I can’t imagine why his hydraulic hoses would need reverse threads.

They make a fitting wrench that want round off your fitting .Be careful on the heat

The threads on my 30 ton splitter are standard righty tighty. It's splitting wood at the moment, but I will run back there in a little bit and shut it down to check for pressure in the cylinder. I'm pretty sure there will still be some pressure in the cylinder, but I could be wrong. My splitter is new and I haven't had to work on it yet.

What kind of pressure do those splitters put through a hose?

Get bigger wrenches. The one Bill posted is not big enough. Cheater pipes also needed.

Whoop! That’ll work!

Exam the fitting to see if this will allow you to get a wrench on fitting:

If so:
Take a hack saw to the hose and ferrule. Cut ferrule off where you can get a six point wrench on remaining part of fitting. Or use a 6 point deep socket and breaking bar. Heat the fitting up with propane. Let it cool and reheat it. Then use your six point wrench to turn it. The six point will keep from stripping the fitting off. GL

I dunno, would have to look at the book.

Relief valves are usually around 1500 to 2000 psi

Yeah, that’s not enough to keep ‘em from backing off. They’re seized up.

Tomorrow I’ll try depressuring to see if that helps. The idea of cutting off the hose and putting a box end wrench on it would likely work, but I hate to take such a drastic step until I absolutely have to. The hoses are near the end of life, if appearances mean anything, but they aren’t leaking yet.

The Speedo Splitmaster has no bleed valve that I could find, so I’ll depressure with the tractor. Maybe there’s an Allen type plug somewhere though. I’ll look again. The fittings have some Teflon tape showing, so maybe they aren’t completely frozen by rust.

This all seemed so simple...before I got started.

What kind of fitting are you dealing with? NPT, JIC, ORFS?

Danged if I know. It screws it and out (in theory).

Rule number 657 of the home repairman's guide, if there is no YouTube showing how to fix said item, there is a good chance you will make a real repairman richer.

LOL. Electrical and hydraulic components are easy to fix.

Well, sometimes hydraulics are more work, but whatever.....

Just don’t go all Phil on it. Phil is a very good friend of mine with a bad temper for gasoline powered engines. He destroyed some very expensive equipment because it would start. Funniest one was a 3 week old commercial Toro mower that he took a splitting maul too, when I arrived the engine was in the street and the frame was in the yard damn near bent in half.

One day driving down his street I found a Stihl trimmer, the one with a 6 foot shaft to reach up high, just laying in the street. It looked rough, like it had fallen off a landscape trailer. I don’t use Stihl but Phil does. I proudly presented this to him upon my arrival, his face turned beat red again and he hurled it back down the street. Never said a word about it. It’s a safe bet that it wouldn’t start

Funny!

About time to take it in.

I have some of those around here somewhere...

Sooo, has this saga ended yet? We NEED to know!

Never had a hydraulic fitting two wrenches squeezed together couldn’t handle.

X2

No, I haven’t worked on it again - yet. Was going to do it this morning, when it wasn’t going to rain. But, it’s rained twice already. I’ve got no to-do list, so I’ll get after it a bit later this morning. At least that’s the plan.

What are you using for penetrating oil? Stop by and pick up some Sea Foam Deep Creep penetrating oil. Works better than liquid wrench or WD. The only thing better, if you are close to an actual parts house is Micro Mist.