Is there another thread about Beekeeping?

I'm very interested in starting a hive.

I have only seen a few threads on bees and most are concerning feral bees in blinds and what not.

I have 10 hives now, fluctuates with the times. I would recommend a lot of reading and finding a beek in your area willing to mentor, much different now then it was 25-30 years ago.

I dont belong to a "club", but they can be a great help starting out I think if for anything to meet a local beek that is willing to work with you.



Not sure how current this is.......
Big Country Beekeepers Association

Contact: Ken Hobbs
P.O Box 7369
Abilene, TX 79608
Phone: (325) 665-4045
EMail: Paniolobee@icloud.com

Meetings:
3rd Tuesday of every month except December at 6:30pm.
Ben E. Keith Company (Budweiser Distributor)
2141 Cottonwood Street
(Ambler and Cottonwood, entrance on Cottonwood next to flag pole.)
Abilene, TX 79601

Don’t know about another thread.

What you need to know an old timer told me. Take 1,000 cash, put 500 on a shelf to look at, take the other 500 and flush down the toilet. After a year of staring at the 500 on shelf, if your still game get you a hive!

It’s costly and a gamble. You will lose hives and sometimes you will not know how or why. You will fight beetles, wax moths, ants, and other things. You can find a bunch of used equipment for sale for the simple fact someone wanted to do it, got into it, lost a few hives and then gave up. This is the reality of it. It’s a thing like the emus back in the 90’s.

If you are interested see if a bee club is in your area and join. You can get help and info from them. A lot of them have Nuc purchase programs to get you started. Someone will be along shortly to criticize what I posted, each his own. I’ve been doing it for 10 years or so now. Internet is full of info but it’s like everything else, you have to find what works for you.

I only try to attract them. They are now working my cilantro blossoms on the warmer days. I'm also careful by not using insecticides.

Startup now days will run you close to $1,000.00 Prices have gotten crazy.

I was just about to start a thread myself. I am looking at ordering my first as well. Have been looking a lot at Elzner Farms

In the gardening thread, we just talked about this and I learned something new. I've done honeybees and I had not heard of Mason Bees.

If you're wanting to do garden pollination, read up on the Mason Bees, very interesting, not as expensive, but they make no honey.

Honeybees require minimally, a hive or two with frames, bees and a queen. Hat, gloves, smoker etc. There's a price to pay for harvesting honey.

Charlie

They are extremely fascinating to me.

I really would like to try and start my own hive. I've read a lot and watched a bunch of YouTube videos.

There was an online class offered for free recently that I'm kicking myself for not entering.

Someone want to make a starter list of what you need for anyone wanting to get into beekeeping?

Following.

Thought this was pretty good..

Just placed an order for two hives and boxes for pickup This spring from Elzner farms

You can also contact your local youth 4H & FFA programs - lotsa options open for landowners if someone nearby.

We ended up ‘hosting’ a couple of boxes on our property - and getting some new friends - didn’t cost us a penny.
They brought & setup, and did all the ‘hard’ work, we helped maintain in between .
They taught us along the way, and we got ‘a share’ of the honey harvest.

Beekeepers are always looking for additional places to set hives.

I had about a dozen colonies and enjoyed them. They certainly aren't worry free. Then I married a woman who we found was highly allergic to bee stings. So, I sold them all and put my equipment om EBAY. I still have a smoker somewhere.

For a home hobbyist, I think about 2 colonies would be ideal. But, you still need all of the gear.

What a lot of people don't realize is that all honey isn't the same. It all depends on what the bees forage on. Some is dang near inedible.

I didn't know that.

I looked into it for a while then did not do anything after that. I found this style hive and the ease of getting the honey. I had 2 colonies of bees to start with already in the walls of an old farm house that I would have had to use as starter.
https://www.honeyflow.com/

Seen those before, pretty cool.

One of my biggest concerns is how to deal with varoa mites. Any tips

I never had or really worried about mites too much. I used all screen bottom boards and Beeweaver bees. Their bees will eliminate infested pupae and are heavy groomers. I never used any chemical treatments. There are powdered sugar dusting options, traps you can use.

https://beeweaver.com/beeweaver-queen-pick-up-navasota/

One year our area had a huge outbreak of horse mint. It was everywhere and the bees hammered down on it. The honey had a real minty taste to it. It pretty much sucked imo.

I didn't either. Interesting.

My experience is dated (30 years ago) we had a small square of cloth stapled to the top of a frame, I think one in the top honey super and one in the bottom brood chamber. Placed a few eye dropper dots of some kind of chemical on those cloth squares. Back then, many people assumed if you lost a hive, it was due to mites, I think they've proven now that's not necessarily correct. As a hobbyist, most of the time when you mysteriously lose a hive, usually have no idea why. It would really suck when it happened after trying to create a new hive from splitting an existing one.

Charlie

When I was a teenager I had a little girlfriend down the road and her Daddy owned a huge bee farm. Had a huge barn full of big stainless vats, vessels, tables etc for processing honey to sell. GF and I used to ride horses out there and everywhere you looked were old dead bee colonies, hundreds of them at least. Anyway, I was told it was fire ants that killed all of his bees and shut the whole operation down. We do have bad fireants here.

This is very true. Reason most honey is harvested by August. The “flowers” that bloom after the spring bloom often make the honey less than good. This is usually left for the bees to eat.

There are many occurrences that will determine the success of the hives.

Yep, even Gordon Ramsay talked about it on his new show.
Did y’all also know that there is a ton of imposter honey coming into the country as well? Local honey from individuals is where it’s at if you don’t have your own hives

It doesn't make the news often. But look into bee theft. Commercial keepers have 100's of hives stolen every year.

That's right Bullfrog...........buy it from someone you know.

At a minimum you'll need a vial, smoker (get a large from Dadant bee supply, trust me, you don't want a small smoker)) and hive tool. A young man I have been helping started with this min and used a painters suit and work gloves from lowes and he did fine his 1st year.

Depending on how much cash you can spend and what protection level you need, then there are options. I have a 2 full ultra breeze suits, one each for my wife and I, used mostly for "cut outs" and real pissy bees. For general use on nice days, I use an ultra breeze jacket with hood, or just a veil and long sleeve shirt depending what chore I'm doing.

Misc items that come in handy
Large rubber bands,,Use for holding comb to frames when needed
Cheap magnifying glass if its hard to see eggs and you're old like me, I keep a $5 walmart cheapy in an old sock.
Small tool box to keep stuff in

If you are going to treat varroa mites with OA (Oxilic Acid and I would) You'll need to consider how you will introduce it to the hive, soaked on rags, or easier and quicker imo is doing it by vapor with a vaporizer either made or bought for around $150

Just off the top of my head

Yep, That's why you see some sold as "alfalfa", "clover", "mesquite", "wildflower". even then it can vary, same with the color and water content depending on forage/range conditions. That's if it's 100% real honey and not some of the much adulterated stuff.

I live in an area that the commercial honey producers bring in BIG TRUCK loads of bees & hives. The hives & bees are spread out among miles of farms & ranches. The hives are loaded back on trucks in early fall and taken elsewhere.

Can you explain a little about the vaporized OA?

How often? Do treat on a schedule?

So, are we winning the battle against the Africanized Bees now?

Haven't heard much about them lately.

Have known more than a few people that were killed by them.

BradyBuck, When Oxalic acid crystals are heated, they turn to a vapor, when injected into a hive, the vapor coats the surfaces as it cools and re-solidifies (nutshell version)

Most beeks treat when varroa threshold over 2-3% is noticed and almost absolutely in the month of August prior to winter bee production. OA is in the hive naturally, in food we eat and in our bodies, also, it has shown no side effects to bees and best of all, varroa haven't built up a tolerance to it as they have other manufactured synthetic miticides like Apistan that has been used so much, the mites have grown tolerance to it.

OA is used after the honey supers are removed generally, not to be used when supers are on. Also, most that use OA, also do a rx once or twice over winter, usually around Christmas or a day when the cluster of bees is loose and some are flying (50 degrees) OA is most effective for phoretic mites, does nothing to the majority of mites that are in egg cells, so winter is a good time for a one or two shot dose since there is far less, if any brood at this time. August, or even a spring rx of OA is done in a series over a period of days, usually each hive gets a does on day, then another every 3-4 days for 5-6 treatments, this tme period covers the mite reporduction and kills mites as the emerge with baby bees.

There are other products that work good, most have some twerks if you will, like thymol products work well, but are heat sensitive ( has temp reqs), but are a good addition to ipm and mite management,

Many beeks choose a treatment for real early Spring and then another in August as I mentioned earlier.

One synthetic I like and is quite popular is Apivar, it is a treatment that stays in the hive as "strips" for around 42 days, but it is good to use a couple different types and not just the same type back to back.

I also like and have used Thymol products, you just have to follow the directions, some beeks reportedly have had queen loss but I never have.


Edit : EPA violation to use OA when honey supers are on, or open to the vapor, many that have to treat during honey flo remove them for a spell, or use cardboard to separate the supers from the brood boxes

Skinner, last I read they are a bit watered down, but still marching and likely in our gene pool for a longtime with x breeding. IIRC, registered Texas beeks are suppose tp re-queen any captured swarm, but that may have changed , not sure. I know they are bad mojo

That fight was lost years ago. They are actually really good bees. Their temperament is the bad part, but it's slowly being bread, modified out with the bad traits left behind.

Great information, thanks!

I spent some time yesterday watching YouTube videos on vaporizing OA. Seems fairly simple.

Yeah, seems daunting, but pretty str8 forward once you have the materials. OA is about the cheapest rx after the higher buy in as well.

Thoughts on the Flow hive? Very expensive, and I actually like the thought of opening up the hive and all that beekeeping entails vs just cracking the faucet.


https://www.honeyflow.com/

Personally, I think the FH is a gimmick and you'd be better off just buying $7-800 of bottled honey. In all honesty and just my personnel opinion, if you want the animal husbandry, the fun learning and dealing with bees, not to mention the challenge, it is a super hobby that has the potential to give you a bit if honey each year (not a guarantee). If all you want is the honey, far easier to locate a local beek and purchase it str8 from them and skip all the expense and time spent. Caveat, I have never had a FHm just have spoke to a few that tried them and read about them on post made by those that tried, I have also read some good reviews as well, but you have to read between the post and see who actually is a "beekeeper" and knows the difference.

I'd rather buy 2 hives and get them going near the same cash and grow from there and get enough experience before deciding on a FH. Easier to sell the two hives with bees then a FH I'd bet as well.

I can post a long quote from a thread I read a few years ago about the FH if you care to read it, good summation of how I feel for the most part at least from the enjoyment side of it. Guy sold them, but it was a lengthy post.

Cordless.



Near my garden. I'm not willing to get any closer.

Cant get bees much cheaper than that!

I don't want to kill mine. They are real gentle. I found a bee keeping club in Rosenberg. No phone number. I contacted them online and no reply to date. I'm willing to donate to the cause if they can relocate them. There is a colony of hives across the road.

If there is an "Apiary" across the road, that is likely where they came from. Might put a note on their entrance and I bet they will come after them.

You have to stop doing me this way.

Pfft, I have 50k girls in each box that wear less than that!


She is holding a frame from a top bar hive and not a bee in site, great photo tho

This cold front will sure test the hives stores, fingers crossed I have them prepped enough.

I have a bee keeper coming next week. Fingers crossed.

I saw my neighbor has wrapped his hive in a pretty thick layer of insulation

Yeah, that is doable if you have the "stuff" available, I have insulation boxes on top I made a few years ago. You have to be careful and make sure they still have ventilation or condensation can build up and drip down on the bees killing them, It will still bee a roller coaster with temps near 0.

Most northern beeks, even up to Alaska use tar paper as a wrap, some use a bought hive wrap, but imagine if you had 1000 hives, or as some 10k+!. I purposely dont beak the propolis seal the bees use to seal the hive, so I haven't looked in my hives since early November.

for some reason i read this as the THF Beek Keeping thread

I think my honeybees headed south. I don't see them hunkered down anymore.

I was wrong. They were swarming this afternoon. I really like. Still searching for a new home.

For the ones wanting to try beekeeping look into top-bar hives,get some plans and make one or two.Do not use treated lumber.

Please end a debate between me and the War Dept. Is three parts sugar to one part water too rich for bees feeding from a bowl of marbles? TIA

Take mine and find out.

Two parts sugar to one part water 2:1 and it's still thicker than spring syrup,look it up.

Thanks!

For open feeding, there is no requirement other than only white sugar, or high fructose corn syrup. Avoid anything with color like waffle syrup, or brown sugar.

1:1 is close to nectar

I just got started last year with one nuc hive ordered in December and suppose to get around Easter. Cost for nuc was $225.. Guy wanted to make sure they were established well and did not get it until late June. They did well, had one of the best gardens in years! He suggested feeding 1:1 syrup all year. I ended up adding second brood box and they made quite a bit of honey which I left for winter. I treated for mites with the strips. I checked them after the severe cold and found quite a few dead ones, but, the hive still seems strong. They are really starting to fly again with the warmer weather. I will be adding a honey super soon for spring. I have a second nuc ordered to add this spring. I almost exclusively used youtube for my education into this. Derek was right in estimating about $1000 to get established. Don't do it to make money, probably wont happen!. It is really a fun and interesting hobby and it helps my fruit trees and garden. My 2 cents.

See?

Goodbye old friends.

Successful Beekeepers are those that propagate more Bees than they kill.

I set up hives from swarms that I catch. I let them do their thing for the most part. I only extract honey from June to July.

For me, the more aggressive the hive the better. Never had any issues with Virroa Mites, Black Hive Beetles, or Wax Moths.

Who is that masked man? The bees would not take the bait so Tom had to use a vacuum. I really like the bees. Bill

Done deaL. Tom just pulled out headed for Bois D' Arc Lane. I can now cut the log up and put it in my burn pile.

Anyone else doing pollinator bees (Mason/Leafcutter)? First time giving them a try as I have a real lack of bugs/pollinators for my small garden. I get tons of blooms (last year), but almost no fruit/vege's. This year, everything is blooming again, but I've only got a single banana pepper growing.

I put my house out with I think it was 10 reeds of bees probably 3 weeks ago (just after that last overnight frost we had) . I've seen a couple by chance, but nothing regular and 1 dead one in the house, attracting ants. I'm going to move the house off of my fence and hang it from a plant hanger (like a shepherds crook) as I read that ants can/will chew on the larvae. Just to see, I did split one of the reeds and there were 5 I think it was cocoons/larvae. so I know there is something in there.

I ordered these https://masonbeesforsale.com/collections/bees/products/package-bees to try and prime this pump I guess... also bought some kind of spray that helps make the house smell like a bee house and is some kind of attractant . I have some planters on the fence by the garden with some flowers to help keep them around

I've done honeybees before, but never these. Any thoughts/comments? (I also put out a Praying Mantis cocoon which should start dropping some shortly as well. I'm assuming the bees are too big for the mantis to fool with.)

Thanks
Charlie

Interesting bees, hope it works out for you.

I'd like to raise some honey bees and have been looking into it, but I dunno. My youngest daughter is terrified, and I do mean terrified (screaming & shaking) of bees.

I lost one native hive but have another near.

True, but that’s typically the fail forage sources so I never pulled any of that off the hive. The spring honey flow is usually going to be clover or mesquite blooms in my area. YMMV of course.

I don’t have any hives at the moment, but I got into it back in the early 90’s when I lived in a more rural area. I kept all of my equipment though and it came in handy as I had to remove a hive in the floor of one of our blinds last year.

BTW, dried cow patties make excellent material for the smoker. Easy to keep lit and burns a long time.

Many folks may not know that Africanized bees were an intentional breeding experiment to create more aggressive foragers but they escaped Africa and spread. They got the nickname killer bees. Their venom is no different than other honeybees but they are more prone to attack and in greater numbers. The other problem is that they are less picky about where they establish a hive and that often puts them in places where human interaction is likely.

It’s a classic problem. More docile bees are generally not good foragers and good foragers are not so docile.

Not quite…. They didn’t escape Africa, they were purposely brought to S. America and have been making their way north for the last 40 years or so.

Charlie

Truff, a Biologist /bee keeper brought some into Brazil in the mid 50's to try and breed a better forager honey bee for the rain forest, another bee keeper came along and thought they'd produce better without excluders and they where released by mistake.

I think it was in the 80's they 1st made it to California and many here will recall in the very early 90's when they came into STX.

So far, I’ve had 2 neighbors stop me and ask wtf I’m doing different then them? I ask, “you ever heard of a Derek?”
The day No. I say well, find the guy and you’ll know!

I need a pound or two of bees wax for lubing my shotgun wads if anyone has a little laying around not being used....

Got a buddy that wants to attend a class or visit with a beekeeper to help him start bee keeping.

I recall a fella out of Allen/Fairview that was offering up his services however can’t seem to find the info.

Anyone have any info or referrals I can pass along?

Thanks
Blake

There are classes at Texas Bee Supply for beginners. They are up by Blue Ridge on the boarder of Colin and Fannin county. They also have great free monthly webinars the first Thursday of every month. And if you go to their website they have all the past webinars posted so you can watch then at you convenience

Awesome. Thank you Steve

If you ever want to come see my hives to get a hands on experience let me know. I'm up to 9 hives now. And you can get a feel for what a strong hive looks like as well as one that is struggling (A new swarm that I caught)

They are up by Wolfe City..

Harvested the honey already. Got about 100 lbs.

As a bonus, when I let the bees clean out the extracted frames I ended up catching a swarm!!

Cool.

Hate those boardman feeders, helped a fella going through a lot of robbing, he used those and robbing went way down after they where taken out.

I hate those Boardman feeders also.. but that was all I had that day. I moved them to a deep brood box the next day with a frame feeder. They are doing great now and the box is 80% full of bees already. Going to put a second brood box on this week and continue feeding.

They are on the end of my line... I'll get better pictures later

I use the qt jars inside on the inner cover, I can go to half gal if needed with same lids. Been so dry here, I wont get much if any production, at this point just keeping them fed

I gave my bees a water source via a 55 gal drum cut in half and put some wood in it for them to land and drink

Will be doing the OA thing soon, beetles have been mild so far for me though

I started to do the OA treatments this weekend on two hives that tested high for mites. First treatment showed a good number of dead mites below the screened bottom board.

I used the Lorab Bee Oxalic vaporizer and it only takes about a minute to treat each hive.

I have a wand from back when those came out, have one made in Canada that does it it in about 45 sec. There is a new one out that uses dewalt 18v batteries and takes about 18 seconds

I’m fixing to get in the bee keeping business. We had three hives when I was a kid 7-8…

Had 2.5 acres and just purchased three more. Adding 6-10 hives for an ag exemption.

Will be doing lots of reading and asking lots of questions just as soon as I finish with the new water well.

Good luck !! Texas Bee Supply still has hives for sale if you want to get going now.

I’ll check them out. Thanks!

Awesome!

Thats so cool...........getting the water supply and a sellable and tradeable commodity........walking the walk. Good job and good luck.

SW, I would spend the rest of this year reading and working on the material budget, gathering supplies. You can start off reasonably easy, but will need/want more equipment as it goes.

Bee keeping is much different then it was when you where young as far as introduced bugs and pathogens= more supervision of the hives, ASome snake oil imo, to avoid as well starting out

When I was a kid, we had bees on the family farm (grandfathers)m we bottled and sold honey, boxes and frames to beeks and grocery store chains, back then the biggest issues where moths and rarely american foul brood.

So what's a realistic initial investment for a strong hive in the rolling plains/SE panhandle? I've seen the aforementioned $1k, but times change. Starting from scratch...I have the land but no equipment (or bees). Not looking to sell anything, just wanting our own local source of honey and a good retirement/self-sustaining hobby.

I’d say about $600 for a complete hive with a good suit and tools. See if there is a vendor near you that sells them. It’s best to get local bees that are used to the climate by you

Caught another swarm

Afternoon Colonel,

I think 1k would be a good budget to start and I would recommend at least 2 full hives, this will allow you many benefits as in, comparing the growth of both, but more importantly, having resources if one hive needs help. I would also consider keeping and extra hive body set, or at least a "nuc" (small 5-6 frame hive) can be made by you or bought when you can

You'll need a smoker and you want the large from https://www.dadant.com/catalog/tool...stainless-steel-with-heat-finger-shield. Trust me on this.

There are odds and ends you can compromise on somewhat depending , I have ultra breeze jackets and a full suit, but they are pricey, one young fella I have been helping used a hat w/ veil and a painters suit and work gloves from Lowes his first year.

Hive tool

Bees are resilient , I have had Queens from Hawaii, east coast, west coat, Canada and in between, they have all done fine, There are several "strains" of bees you can read up on, some developed for cooler temps, but do fine in the south as well, some are bred for varroa sensitivity and are sold as VSH "Bee type" Like VSH Italians for example. btw, the Italian is the most common strain in the world probably. Carniolans and Russians are used a lot in the North, but are used here in Texas s well, "Carnis" and Itailians would be good as they tend to be docile and good producers, read up on them

Will come back when I think of something else lol

Another thought as far as bees.

I would strongly recommend you getting your bees as a "nuc" if you can find some local or within a reasonable driving distance for you. Ideally they will be overwintered, but even a spring nuc you pre-order will be better than a package bees but that's just my opinion. A nuc will come as a mini hive where all are familiar with each other. Packaged bees are bees from many hives put in a cage with a caged queen and shipped/picked up.

What’s the best time of the year to get bees? Know anyone in the Freestone area looking for a place to set a few hives 4-10….

Late Spring to early Summer is when most of the swarms happen (hive splitting) if you have someone with several hives that will let you, place an empty hive close to that or those hives and often the swarm will make that empty hive it's new home

Best way to start is pre-order as early as you can, usually Jan 1st on, and folks start selling pre-order. Since initial cost will be higher with having to purchase incidentals like bee suit/jacket, gloves, hive tool, boxes and frames et cetera, I'd try to at least start with 2 hives

Yes, a "Nuc" is the BEST way to start. I started 5 years ago by catching swarms. Expanding next year, so will be purchasing at least 10 "Nucs". Check out Facebook groups for used equipment if needed.

"MILL CREEK HONEY BEE FARM"

Not sure if I shared this yet.

I started my first hive spring of 2022. They seemed to do well but just didn’t expand like I expected but that’s a whole other topic.

A few months ago I went down to check on them and I wasn’t wearing any sting protection. Unless I’m pulling frames I usually don’t. I’ll open the hive just peek in real quick, check on my sugar water I’m feeding etc.

Well this particular day they decided to protect their resources more aggressively, I have now learned not uncommon heading into winter for bees to become more aggressive.

I was hit twice, once on my left temple and once at the base of my right ear.

Anyway, I didn’t think much about it, I’ve been stung before and it usually dose not bother me. This time however my head started to get a bit hot but still didn’t think much of it.

We needed to run to town so I jumped in the shower. Things got a bit more scary at this point. I started to break out in full body hives. I took some Benadryl. Then my jaw got tight and tongue seemed to swell. I believe I started to have a bit of a panic attack (never had one before) because my heart started racing, sweating profusely and vision became blurry. I’m a paramedic and my wife is an NP.

We got in the car and headed to the ER, thankfully the Benadryl kicked it halfway there and everything subsided.

The next day the left side of my head looked like grapefruit but only the right side where I was also stung never swelled.

So just a warning, always wear your gear, you can have a reaction even if you never have before and get an Epi pen

I always have an epi pen on hand. I also don’t have any reaction to stings. But you never know when that could change. Glad you’re okay. 👍

Timing is always a "thing", sometimes a night visitor has them riled up (skunk, possum), dark clothing can get their attention at times.
I've been lit up a few times, but generally its one or two guard bees that get me when I'm not ready lol

Ordered 6 complete hives today! Should be delivered mid-to late April or early May!

Getting everything together to prep the area. Going to set cattle panel wind breaks around the hive area using T-posts to keep the bottom of the panel 14-18” above ground level then using topsoil to create a 12-14” tall 3-4’ wide mount then length of each panel. Planting red honeysuckle and several varieties of grapes to grow as a view/wind screens on the panels and planting various berry bushes on the mounds. Expect to have between 10-18 panel/mounds depending upon final layout.

Also looking into chickens or quail or both….meat and egg production.

Good luck with your new bees. I’ve been keeping bees for three years now and love the honey.

I’m planting alfalfa on 4-5 acres for my bees this year

Does anyone have any experience with the Flowhives? My wife bought a couple of these for here at the house and I’d never even heard of something like this before so I’m curious what other bee keepers think about them. I put them together today and they seem like a really well built/thought out box and super easy to maintain but time will tell I guess.

She’s been going to classes the last couple months trying to get a crash course in bee keeping but does anyone have any must know and must have items to keep on hand at all times? She’s purchased all the tools, gadgets and safety gear already but me being as OCD as I am I want to have anything she might need eventually on hand. I’m thinking like pest control, food, supplements, etc etc. so I can go ahead and order for her before she needs it. I’d appreciate any and all help,

Well, I’ve been seeing bees flying around the hive on warm days for the last few weeks.

When do you typically start adding your supers?

My hive only filled one deep last year so I took off the super and condensed them down to just the deep. Fed them over winter.

I was thinking about giving them more space next week.

When the brood box is at least 80% full then add either another brood box or a honey supper. It all depends on if you’re trying to grow your apiary or harvest honey this year

I was asking because my hive only wintered with one deep brood box 5.5 of 8 frames drawn out.

When winter hit I took off the super (they hadn’t touched it). I put some paper directly over the brood box frames, built a 1/2 inch wood frame spacer and filled that space with plain white sugar, covered that with my inner cover then outer cover.

I picked up the method from somewhere. Stated it fed their bees through winter as well as absorbed moisture keeping the colony dry.

I opened them up today and they look great, all the paper and sugar was gone. 6.5/8 frames drawn. I added a super as well.

Bradybuck, I assume you are using 8 frame equipment? I do.

The sugar and how you added it, is called "mountain camp"

Running 1 brood box will keep you busy, you will have to be on the look out for potential swarming, even using 10 frame. Monitoring a single deep can tax even experienced beeks.

You need to make sure they have nectar, they likely have plenty pollen by now and should be brooding up way by now, mine started brooding up end of February. You need to check how much brood you have and in what stages they are, this will give you an idea what to expect in number explosion.

You don't want a swarm to occur, or it will be like starting over for a spell.

Do you have more wooden ware to expand if necessary? In a good flow they potentially could draw out the super in a week or less if they are strong.

Do a mite wash?

Hey Thumper, Just mho, I think they are a bit gimmicky and lead one to believe it is as easy as just turning a spout and at a premium price for the novelty. I an sure the wife has learned enough by now to know all the work in keeping bees alive will still be the same.

I also have some reservation on what honey comes out of the spout, if the moisture content is to high, it will start to ferment. That is an issue for standard Langstroth hives but possibly easier to pull my frames and see where the bees are in capping cells. May not even be an issue for her to go to that trouble.

I have read several threads about them, there are a few guys that like them, but many that get frustrated. From what I've been told, they really need a long, strong nectar flow to really work well, as they have in Australia where the father and son developed them.

In any event, welcome her to the clan lol, it is a fascinating, frustrating at times hobby. Varroa mites are the enemy.....

EDIT: Get her a Refractometer, This is good for anyone that will jar honey, especially if you intend to sell or give honey away

I have this one and it works great and easy to calibrate using extra virgin olive oil
https://www.amazon.com/Refractomete...;linkId=f325044b5202ed01a740d1c9fcaf9a3a

Congrats Jess!!
Sounds like you are doing your level best to never get bored lol

Already added honey supers to all 6 of my double deep hives. Hopefully they will continue to fly this spring.