Had a few in my yard. 2 4 D solved that problem. Buddy has then everywhere. Really looking for a solution for the ones in a pasture.

They have exploded at our place.

I remember a quail hunter who once said move off and leave them was the only way to get rid of them.

Fertilizer. Weeds hate fertilizer and mowers. Do this at every opportunity.

Napalm, LOTS OF NAPALM

He could do a blanket spray of Celsius WG. I would do the max rate of 3.2 grams per 1000 or 140 grams per acre. It's not cheap and a little goes a long way. But if there are a few in your area that could split a bottle the price is reasonable. It's a fantastic weed kill with no application temperature restrictions.

https://www.domyown.com/msds/Celsius%20WG%20Herbicide%20Label.pdf

Or you could do a blanket at the label rate of 1.6g per 1000 for Burr control and that would allow you to do 2 blanket apps a year. You cannot use more than the 3.2 grams per 1000 per year. Also add a non ionic surfactant.

Goats. Keep them on the place for a couple of years and they will be gone. I don't have grass burrs any longer.

They also clean up the cockleburrs.

We have had no rain thus we have no grass burrs.

We have had no rain. The ranch I work on is covered up in burrs.

For pastures, you can spray with a pre-emergent in Feb and prevent germination of a lot of them but will take several annual applications to wipe them all out. Pay attention to labels if grazing livestock.

Also, as noted above, for best control get some good quality grass established with fertilize (and pray for rain) and keep it grazed or mowed. Stickers won’t survive with the competition of any quality grass.

Good luck.

Had some success with Balan herbicide. First applied in Sept. and then again in the spring. This year applied in the spring only and have hardly any.

Balan is a pre emergent. It won't do anything to what is already up. But applying a pre emergent is a great thing to do for control. There a few products good for pre emergent control. Balan, Dithiopyr, Prodiamine. The downside to applying pre emergents is they have to be watered in soon after application. Applying it on a residential lawn is easy as you can breakout the sprinklers and water it in easily. Pasture land is a little more difficult. You would want to apply a day or two prior to high rain chances. Personally I'm a fan of Prodiamine as the soil residual is long lasting. Apply a 6 month rate early February and again late August and your weed control will be good shape. Spurs germinated months ago but you're just now noticing them since they have the stickers. Anything you can do to keeps those seed from germinating is good.

You can still get MSMA, but it's not 'legal' for use in lawns. You could use it on your pasture, though.

MSMA don't use on Saint Augustine.

MSMA / DSMA - is not labeled for use in forages, do not use on haying or grazing pastures.
Arsonate (A) derivative of arsenic, builds up in plants can has and does poison livestock & wildlife that grazes the plant life and or eats the hay.

No matter what you use read, understand and follow the label.

Field Sandbur, Grassbur, Sandbur, Sandspur whatever you call it. Seeds can remain viable in soil for 7 years, there isn't a once & done control.

Pastora is a post emergent that works well on young less than 1.5” tall actively growing Sandbur.

Prowl H20 pre emergent is labeled for sandbur in dormant pasture, 60 day haying restriction 45 day grazing retriction after application.

All grassbur,sandbur pre emergents will benefit from another application 90 days after the first application for best effect.
Better to apply a week too early than 24 hours too late.

Herbicides containing Benefin, Prodiamine, Dithiopyr, Oryzalin, Pendimethalin that are labeled for your intended application will help control grassbur/sandbur.
Read the label, many common over counter pre emergents contain one of the above.