My 96k mile 2011 Ford F250 diesel, 4x4 developed a squeak or maybe a sort of chirp at 93k miles. It didn't change with engine speed, so it seemed drivetrain related.

Shop 1 said they couldn't hear the squeak but gave me an estimate of almost $7k for "other" repairs that were "needed". I didn't have any work done and took it elsewhere.

At Shop 2 they said they heard the squeak and determined the front and rear rear driveshaft u-joints were the culprit. Seemed strange that they both developed at a squeak at the same time but I'm ignorant about vehicle mechanics so I accepted it and replaced both. The squeak was gone. That was all in February. Well, several months and 3k miles later the squeak is back. I wasn't going to go back to the shop in Step 1. The shop in Step 2 took a week and that was with hounding them. Decided to go elsewhere.

Currently at Shop 3. They couldn't hear the squeak. Asked to go for a drive with a different person. Different person heard the squeak. Also, this person said it looks like the two previously noted u-joints were replaced. They then provided me an estimate of $3500 in repairs (none of which match the $7k from Shop 1)... but don't know what the squeak is. One of the repairs is to replace one of the hubs. They demonstrated to me that it makes a very slight - almost non-existent - tick when the wheel is rotated. Is that normal? Does that mean the hub needs replaced? Or just a bearing? They "hope" that replacing the hub to fix the tick will also eliminate the squeak. Then they called me last eve and said both of my locking hubs were manually locked which could cause a problem.

Whatever the issue is my experience driving the vehicle is essentially no different than it has been since brand new... except it makes the noise.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

My first thought on any type of squeak is to check brake pads, retainer clips on pads and rotors for being warped.

on some vehicles you can only buy/replace the hub with the bearing in it. My dad's park avenue is that way.

And it's a fairly easy job to replace. IF you can replace brakes, then you can replace a hub bearing.

Crawl under it and shake the driveshafts. If they wiggle, replace the ujoints. If not, keep driving it and turn up the radio or take it to another shop to find out what else is wrong with it, their price will prolly be $5K.

For a $7,000 repair bill they better have a bunch of chit wrong. If you have any kind of a working brain you can get on youtube and learn a whole lot about it if you have any inclination. If you dont want to figure anything out about it then take it to the dealer.

If you need a mechanic, I have one I trust.

Mine is 10 ten years older. I’ve changed hub assemblies myself without any big issues. The front end was completely wore out at 150k and again at 300k. Those prices all seem high. Plus if your hubs manually locked you’ve been spinning your entire front drivetrain. Even if those ujoints need to be replaced it seems high. There may be no noise with them unlocked.

Now that you have unlocked your hubs, do you still hear the squeak? Does the squeak increase/decrease in pitch as speed changes?

U-joints will in my experience squeak for a long time before they go out. If you dont want to spend the money because you dont trust them drive it till it gets worse or it breaks... then you will KNOW what is wrong.

A little squeaking is fine. Grinding and popping is a sign something is going to fail - just turn the radio up for now.

It’s a little more difficult than a brake job on a 4x4 vs a sedan.

way more.

It may be a little more work on a 4x4 but its still very doable even with beginner skills and a few tools. Get on youtube and a damn monkey could do it!

No offense to the mechanics of the world but i have seen many that could fix the hell out of a vehicle that just were not the sharpest tools in the shed. If you apply yourself you can figure it out. If you want to.. if not then cut that check.

Turn up that radio.

Hub replacement was the only option available on my 1999 F250.


Once you are this far into it....its a good time to R&R those brake pads if they need it.

If the sound doesn't change with speed differences, I don't see how it could be a wheel, bearing, hub, brakes or driveline related? The standard "+" shaped u-joints usually developed a clicking if you had needle bearings going. CV's, I don't know.

"Squeaks" are more closely related to suspension as that will not vary with engine/vehicle speed.

Charlie.

NORML as can be - Help On The Way - clever, thanks, I noticed you noticing!

Redchevy, your approach is very straightforward. I like your style.

All others, thanks for you responses. Good info.

Yes, now that the hubs are unlocked the squeak (and the faint tick) are gone. In particular it was the driver side. Passenger doesn't make any noises. The mechanic verified they still function.

So, bad news and good news. Bad news - I'm not getting a new truck at least not in the foreseeable future. Good news, I'm not paying for a new truck.

If unlocking the hubs got rid of the problem its probably one of the u-joints on either end of the front axle. A lot more effort to get to the part than it is to fix.

On the hubs for anyone who cares if you ever replace one when you put the new one on, pull the ABS sensor and add more grease through the asb sensor port.

That’s good new indeed. Depending on how much you use 4x4 it could last forever.

Then again, if you want a new truck, lock those guns back in and tell the wife it’s got to go.

I gotta check my manual locks on my Superduty. Is it labeled ?

Thanks

Clockwise is locked on every hub I’ve ever saw.

I’m pretty good at mechanic work, but I’m no TEXASLEFTY, he did my hubs and without him it would’ve been an absolute [censored] whooping because the axle shafts had mated with the hubs