Full timer and Xscaper here. The ice thing has kind of been debunked.

Look up the geo method for rv black tanks. It can help. Start with almost 1/4 of a tank of water.

This is really good stuff to use every know and then in black and grey tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/TankTechsRx-Treatment-treatments-Probiotics-portable/dp/B00JFUJBTW

I've had good luck with this in black tank.

https://www.amazon.com/Walex-BOI-11...Deodorizer&qid=1593635772&sr=8-2


Check if water heater has an anode that needs routine replacing.

I've had a few campers, with most recent being a TH. A couple of hints I learned the hard way:

- Careful on the weight, especially if hauling behind a 1/2 ton truck. It is really easy to get overloaded, and if your's is like mine was, the 1/2 will pull fine, but will not pass a gas station. I will add, my TH pulled better when I had my motorcycle or SxS in the back - I think it dispersed the tongue weight and made for a smoother ride.

- For longer trips, I actually carried two spare tires and a floor jack. I've seen folks change tires using the leveling jacks, but believe that is actually discouraged.

- A good weight distribution hitch is a must. It takes time to get them set just right, but it will save you some white knuckles.

- Protect your investment and store under a cover or inside storage facility. The sun is hard on seals, the roof, tires, decals, etc.

- We found a good, long, septic drain hose that capped on both ends. The short ones that come with campers are pretty worthless.

- Someone else mentioned tools, but will add getting a good four-way. We have one that folds up for easy storage, and I've had to use it several times.

- Stuff breaks, so don't get frustrated with it. In my opinion, fixing was just part of ownership, and I was always fixing...So enjoy it and use it!!!

A piece of outdoor carpet to place outside the door and a couple of extra extension cords.

now i remember why i never bought a camping trailer

Forgot about these, keep both in my storage as well. I bought one of the small floor jacks and just leave it. Hitch with double anti-sway bars if bumper pull.



And adapters, Some places only have 5-15 some only have L5-20....

Make sure you camp at parks within driving distance of Walmart. You don’t know what you need but don’t have till you start camping. Over time you’ll accumulate the stuff needed.

One thing I get a lot of use out of is a 6’ piece of pine 2x8. It seems to be just the elevation I need on one side or the other of the trailer. Just roll up on it. I use it nearly every trip.

Also get battery walkie talkies so you and the wife can communicate as you back into your park slot and she is your lookout. And she’ll need a short lesson on hand signals.

Only open the black tank valve to dump, don't hookup at the site and open it. You can leave the gray water valve open when hooked up.

If you mess this up the next step is removal of the tank to clean it, and possible replacing it with a new one.

After sleeping in some of the places and conditions I've slept in, a TT is well worth any perceived hassle.

+1 on the Walmart. Go camp somewhere close for a first trip in case it is a disaster. Don’t buy too much gimmicky crap. You will realize that you don’t need a whole lot of stuff to be good. Leveling blocks, extra water hose, power cord extension, in-line water filter, socket set, basic tools, duck tap and you should be good to go.

I also carried a couple 6’ boards, but I used 2x12. Needed 2 several times with the TT. When I moved up to a 5r, it had the automatic hydraulic levelers. Unhook, push a button and stand back. That option was the greatest.

Water pressure regulator for fresh water hose. I got an adjustable one from Amazon.

Don't open either valve when hooked up at the site. You want to dump your black tank first and then dump the gray. The gray following the black will help clean out your hoses.

Many folks dread the legendary “poo pyramid”. Just use plenty of water to flush, and keep at least a minimum level of liquid in the black tank.

And that reminds me that we have a rolling 27 gallon poo trailer. One of those plastic jobbers with wheels. If we camp somewhere for more than 4 days, I can ‘offload’ the black tank and some of the gray tank contents and drag it by truck to the dump site. That was truly money well spent. The rolling poo tank is named Hillary, being full of uuuuh, you know what.

Now that’s funny!

Get rid of the stock tires (junk) that came on the unit and get proper rated, quality tire.

Many new travel trailers & fifth wheels are coming from the factory with GoodYear Endurance tires, most offer them as an upgrade if ordering.

The Goodyear endurance is the only US made ST (special trailer) rated tire available anywhere, all with N speed rating.
They have absolutely nothing in common with the previous marathon model tire. They have been out for several years with excellent reviews of wear & longevity.

A quality rib / highway tread LT tire is also a good option, if the appropriate load index tire is selected.

Load range = a broad range (ballpark) of weight carrying capabilities, hence load range.
Load range is based on an antiquated statement of plies the tires were (past tense) made with. 10 ply rating. " Rating " means it equates to the strength of old bias ply tires that were constructed with layers of plies to support a given weight.

Modern E load range radial tires are not constructed with 10 plies, none.

Load range E usually rated at 80 psi, some sizes do use 65 psi,, actual weight carrying capacities vary depending on specific tire load index number.

Load Index number = is the specific / actual weight carrying capacity of the tire.

Load range gets you in the ballpark of tires that may or may not have an actual weight carrying capacity suitable for your specific application.
The Load Index number relates to a specific weight the tire can carry.

For example.
Load range E tire with a 116 load index can carry 2756 lbs per tire at 80 psi.
Load range E with a 120 load index can carry 3086 lbs per tire at 80 psi.
Load range E, load index #124 can carry 3527 lbs at 80 psi.

LT tires with 2 load index numbers (120/116) means a load capacity for a single tire of 3,086 pounds and a load capacity of 2,756 pounds for two tires (duals).
The capacity is lower for two tires (duals) than a single tire to ensure the vehicle can continue to carry the load a short distance to a safe place to replace or repair should one tire fail.

I never go out in ours with out these 3 things... Proper socket for lugs, CHARGED up 1/2" impact, and the ramp....




TGT

My son and DIL got me a trailer tire monitoring system for Christmas. I really didn't think I needed one at the time. Well, Father's Day weekend we were headed to Lake Brownwood and near Abilene the TPMS alarmed and I could see the left rear tire going down. I stopped at the first pull off and changed it. It had a lag bolt in it.

About 20 miles north of Brownwood, at 9:30 pm, it alarmed on the left front tire and I watched it go down until I could safely pull over. Now I was down with no spare. I called my son who was in Brownwood, and he brought me the spare off his boat trailer which happen to fit thank the Lord. I can't say enough about the importance of a TPMS.

Also, I had 3 different parties stop and offer help. One offered to GIVE me his spare. One gave me his cell # and said to call if my son couldn't get me going and he would come back since he lived in the area. These kind of folks are what make America great.

Although the flats were not caused by my China made Sterling tires failing, I went to Discount Tire in Brownwood Monday and had 4 new Goodyear Endurance tires installed for peace of mind.

We have the TT500 Tire monitoring system. Works great, and it really has eased my mind on long trips. It reads tire temp and pressure and has the alarms.

We use a "Hillary" at deer camp to off load black tank every trip.

Lots of good advice. A few more things...get you a couple containers of the little smell good packets for the blackwater tank. After you dump and flush, close the valve and drop a couple in with some water. Also, get yourself a can of silicone spray lubricant and keep all of your seals and tracks on the slide outs well lubricated. Also, when you store it make sure you drain the water heater. It should have a drain valve under the camper. Stock up on some Damp Rid hanging dessicant bags, they work really well. Hang plenty of them when you put it up, mine are always full of water when I pull the camper out. Rat/mouse poison and roach/ant baits are your friend. Also on the tires, most trailer tires are designed not to run higher than a certain max speed. Improper tire pressure and driving too fast will increase your chances of a blowout. My BIL didn’t believe this and ran 75-85 in his camper all the time, he had more blowouts than I can remember and tore up all kinds of stuff. 10 ply radial truck tires will give you less trouble than trailer tires FME. If you don’t have covered storage, buy and install some UV shields for the vent domes on the roof, they just mount right over the top of them. If you don’t, eventually the sun will get them and they will fall apart. This happened to a colleague of mine during a thunderstorm, made a heck of a mess. Oh and if you can swing it, replace your lead acid battery (if you have one) with a good lithium battery. The sooner the better.

And double check the fridge when you store it! 3 month old bacon is nasty