Please critique my plans for my project. Also add additional pieces if it is needed. 1150' downhill
3/4"pvc sch.40. Thank you.
Black dots
1. tap into existing 3/4" pvc/add on/off valve (bottom right)
2. 3/4" spigot
3. 3/4" Tee
4. 3/4" spigot
5. 3/4" spigot
red dots
1. 3/4" spigot
2. 3/4" spigot

1150ft is a loooong run for 3/4” - don’t expect much flow on the ends. How much drop on that hill?

way way way way undersized, you gonna kill your volume and pressure

Find a sizing chart they are quit simple to compute you pipe size for water supply

Your problem starts at the tie-in to the existing line. 3/4 is sufficient for ONE 3/4 inch spigot up to a hundred feet out. Past that, you need to increase the pipe size by one size every hundred feet. That means the main feeder must be that size also. And in turn, that means the pump must match in size. Further, every added spigot requires the manifold to be increased by one size.

I could lay out the pipe sizes and branches for you, but the main must be large enough at the beginning. You're trying to run a commercial application on an existing residential system. That ain't gonna work.

Oh, and the spigots being downhill are completely irrelevant.

dam

Duke, if you don't mind yes i would love a plan. Our house in connected at the "main" that is 1". Both the main line and the counties are both 1". We are at the end of that run on rural water.

You should look into using HDPE instead of PVC (above or below ground) and quick coupler valves. If you go above ground it gives you some flexibility to move the system. If you decide you like the location bury it and have boxes with quick coupler valves.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ou30uNBZ_BE&feature=emb_logo

https://powerflexfence.com/collections/valves-adapters/products/quick-coupler-valve

https://powerflexfence.com/collections/hdpe-water-pipe

What is the purpose? Just watering trees and grass? Why not just run a pump into the pond and use HDPE or a heavy large enough flexible hose type deal? In a normal year I'd think if you were conservative with your watering you shouldn't put too much of a hurting on the pond.

I'm not trying to blow you off or pee on your parade, but you need to understand... a one inch line from the source is only enough to feed two 3/4 inch spigots at the same time. Three at the most with 60 PSI pressure. And you're nowhere near close to get enough pressure to push water 1100 feet with multiple spigots.

Golf courses use 2 inch mains and 75 PSI pumps to water the fairways. And that's per fairway. The distance you're trying to run is WAY longer than that. You'd have to have a 3 inch tap to the main and a booster pump to make this happen.

You're asking for something that can't be done given existing conditions.

been busy with work to reply to any messages. The over all plan is to use just one spigot at a time. Just watering trees that are little. I'm putting several spigots in just because I guess. My initial plan was to use the pond, but it looks like its on again. I have the pipe for it anyways. Just need to know what solar and size of pump to use. In 2011 we still had plenty of water left in the pond but it was down a lot. We have no power out anywhere except the house. Maybe I'll change that with this project. I'm going to start researching putting a pump in the pond. Is there anyway to regulate a submersible pump? Thanks for all the recommendations folks.

All the water line posts always end up with a bunch of people telling the op they need to run a huge line. People always seem to spend other peoples money really easy.

If you just want to water trees what you have planned is more than enough. Just put 1200 foot of inch pipe in at my brothers property a few months ago and many said the same things they are telling you here.... his works great, pressure and flow are fine, he is going to build a house on it.

If you're just 'watering trees' then pressure doesn't matter much - anything would work -even 3/4.

Running a sprinkler needs pressure (&flow) - I once bought 6 100' 3/4" water hoses to try to water a temporary food plot; pressure was too low to get full coverage with just 1 lawn-sprinkler. It 'kinda' worked, but I had to let it run longer and move more often to get full coverage since sprinkler only worked about 75%.

If you are going to put in all that work digging ditches I would go at least 1.5" on the pvc. Friction loss is not your friend here.

For 3/4" pvc running 15 gpm at the tie in you will lose 18.4 PSI PER 100'. You will not end up with much at the end.
11/2 pvc at the same volume only lose .7 psi per 100'....yes, that is 7/10 out of 1 psi.

Here is your chart.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-pipes-friction-loss-d_802.html

thanks for all the supplies. I think I will try redchevy advise and just use what I have. Already have the pipe.

It will work just fine if you just need or want water available at those locations.
If you plan to irrigate an orchard like most folks seem to think, it simply won't cut it.

If you use 3/4" PVC on a long run make sure it's SCH40 and not the thin crap.
If the weather is warmer or hot, make sure to zigzag the PVC in the ditch so when weather cools off and the PVC shrinks, it won't pull apart at the joints.

It's a really simple but somewhat difficult to grasp.
With normal pressure, if you put water in one end, it will come out the other end.
You will lose volume and pressure but water will still come out.

Get er done before it gets too hot.

He asked for critique.....

I would be curious as to how many gpm your brother is getting on a 1" line at 1200'.

Get a long water hose and move around as needed.

Wow. Took me from sun up to sun down for 2.5 days, but I am finally done. Have about 6" of 3/4" piping remaining at the prop. Had to go into survival mode and scrounge in my pipe bin. First time to use a trencher. It was a beast. There is no telling the time it saved me. What roots? Just let it sit on top of a big root and just eat. Couple of places aren't as deep as I wanted, but its all good. Legs are sore. Did you guys know trenchers don't make turns easy? And if you don't see a line while backing up you will be crooked. I'm sure you guys know and I know now. When I figured out how many lengths of pipe I needed, I did not include the (5) risers for the faucets. Those were the only problems I had and the shut off valve where I turn the line off and on is upside down. It was all it would turn.
You know what I am proud of most? Not one leak. I was to tired to fix leaks.
Thanks guys for all the advice given and red chevy I had already given up on the project until you made that post.
First pic is where I taped in to the existing water line.

PVC is pretty fun to work with

Yep. Just like tinker toys. Great idea of putting a ball [censored] shutoff early and often.

It’s a good thing PVC is flexible.

I ran a trencher today, 450 feet in all, took about 3 hours in hard black clay. I opted for the stand on model, makes turns very easy.

Thanks for the replies. Yes I depended on the flex of the pvc the whole way. I think the hardest part for the trencher was near 2 giant water oaks. 50ft took me about an hour. I planned most of the dig in the open just for this reason, but man do roots grow far from the trees. Another thing i didn't think about was the 3 creosote poles that I used for my faucets. I seem to recall that pigs love these things. Better be careful pigs.

Trenching a straight line on the smaller machines is hard. The chain grand so much that you can’t give it equal power to each track or it will turn itself to what ever side the chain is on. You did just fine with those cuts