So I've been able to successfully install my Savage barrel. Also I've seen on this forum others claiming that Tikka factory barrel are darn near all switchable and they'll still headspace properly. I'm acquiring a used Tikka donor rifle and I have a couple other Tikkas so the idea of doing some barrel swapping came up. Questions:

1. What is the best action wrench? I have a good barrel vise and I even have a set of 308 go/no-go gauges so I think I'm only missing the action wrench.
Some I see are the more traditional ones that go on the outside of the action and they're mostly universal (or I prefer calling generic).
Then there the internal kind, similar in my mind the magpul block I have for upper ar build that applies torque to the barrel extension. I found one by Southern Precision Rifle (SPR) and one from Patriot Valley Arms (PVA) where they ride the railing/space that the bolt lugs travel. (Btw, is this the portion of the action that's referred to as the "raceway?"). The engineer in me says the internal ones are better and again I have multiple Tikkas.
Here's the big kicker, apparently some have removed Tikka barrel with simply a wrench because of the flat sides available. My gut tells me this is NOT the way to go but it sure does save me some moneys.

2. Is the torque required to removed the factory barrel that tough/hard? As a secondary, can I simply continue applying torque until the action and barrel breaks free? I'm not bragging but I am a big man who's in pretty good shape so I can really apply alot of torque/power. I have torque sheared a 5/8 bolt before and I don't wanna take any chances but this goes back to the action wrench for me.

3. I installed my Savage withOUT any "anti-seize" by product name between threads. I only added a temp weapons grease to the threads that I use for ar assembly. Regardless, I think I should now get what I've heard others on youtube generically refer to as "anti-seize" compound. There is a product on Amazon called Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seizing Compound. Is this what i'd use if I wanted to put anti seize on my barrel/action threads.

4. Any Tikka specific tricks I should know about be trying this thing?

If I remember correctly my gunsmith said the factory tikka barrels are on there pretty good. So you'll probably need a fair amount of torque to break it loose.

I'd trust the raceway wrench more.

And, you may think your barrel vise is good, but a factory Tikka barrel install might show it is not. I've seen Tony clamp a barrel in the vise, grab a 4 pound hammer and smack the action wrench coming all the way from right field, and still didn't bust the action loose. The barrel slipped in the vise. So, know that going in.

Tikka employs a silverback gorilla, with a 4' cheater pipe to install barrels.

So i guess I'll keep on torquing on this thing with all my might until it comes loose.

Good, I was really favoring the raceway action wrench. I'm going to get one from PVA. My long term hope is to get a tikka pre-fit from SPR.

And fireman, I have the Viepr vise from Benchrite. IF it does slip, is there something I can do to help it get more grip? again as a layman, I'm concerned that i can over-tighten the nuts on my vise and essentially crush the barrel. Am I being ridiculous?

I have heard thr Silverback Gorilla idea, on another forum one speculated, It is a descendent of large Vikings named "Eric The Torquer".

A trick that I learned from a guy on the Accurate Shooter forum:
- put a wrap of drywall tape around the barrel before tightening it down. This will help prevent slipping. I am pretty sure you will strip the threads on the bolts of your barrel vise before you are able to crush the barrel.
- Also, put something under the action (my friend uses a piece of 4X4, cut to length) to prevent putting any downward force on the action when you are trying to remove the barrel. Back in my wrench-turning days, we called this "counter-torque". This will ensure that most of your force will be rotational and you won't lose any to downward force.

Crush a piece of round pipe? You must be kiddin.

Tighten the vise down until you're afraid the vise is going to break. Because that's the weak link here.

Haha, thanks for the sanity check, fireman and hunter. I actually attempted to run some numbers and found it too analytically challenging to do it properly. The quick/dirty calcs i did do said basically what yall said but i was skeptical at the over simplified the analysis thinking it might give me a false sense of security.

Hunter, I really like your tip about the under the support. the way I mounted my barrel on my bench did leave the action float, which did make it difficult to apply the torque without twisting the action. i definitely going to re-mount my vise somewhere that i can give the action some support.

So the answer to the question was I being ridiculous, the answer is yes. Stupid brain, making me over think things.

AS always, thanks to all for the sounding board.