What do the fine people of THF use to attach your brakes to the barrel so they don’t move (unless you really want it to), and attach your suppressor to the brake that was built for it so that you don’t have issues getting it off when switching to other rifles?

I hope to get my first suppressor, a Crux Ark Neo, in the next few months and have been researching this. What I’ve found is all over the map. From Rocksett to copper anti-seize to nothing at all.

What have you more experienced suppressor owners found to work well?

You could use low strength LockTite. But don't go crazy putting 100 foot pounds on it.

Both my AAC 556SD and Silencerco Omega came with rockset to use when installing their quick detach flash suppressors on the barrel.

Neither came with any, but I use a very thin coat of high temp anti-seize on the outer threads of those quick detach devices and have never had an issue with the silencer being difficult to remove.

All mine are direct thread and I use a little bit of Loctite LB 771 nickel anti seize on the threads. Never had a problem.

I used two small drops of blue Loctite on my Ark Neo.

Rocksett. Blue loctite does next to nothing to secure the threads on anything that gets hot. Rocksett is heat-resistant, but doesn't significantly increase the torque required to remove it when cool. Use it for the brake.

For the suppressor, I use a little bit of permatex antiseize on QD mounts and barrel threads.

Do not use loctite or anything like that. The best thing to do is use Cross Check or some other Tamper-Proof Indicator Paste - it's a visual indicator if anything moves and you won't gum your [censored] up or have to hang on it like a drunken gorilla to get it off - especially a can. If the threads are cut right and you follow the torque specs this is all you need for peace of mind.

Loctite gets soft when heated. Not really what you want on a barrel that can get hot. Rockset is what you want. It is heat safe and water soluble if you want to remove it.

I use rockset

I would use rockset then slip 2000

Thank you to all who took the time to post suggestions, sounds like something like Rockset for the brake and then something like slip 2000 or anti-seize is the ticket. Much appreciated!

I have Crux cans and use their mounts
I don't use anything, I just get it nice and tight by hand and about a 1/4 more with a tool

as long as you don't over tighten the can it won't come off with the mount.

ccocker - thanks for letting me know what you do, like usual I could just be over thinking it. On the brake/mount - did you level/ index yours in some way before putting the suppressor on?

From what I can tell from the Crux website, it looks like 5r design of the brake/mount would need to be indexed to horizontal since it only has side ports...

I have 4 Crux cans, 2 of the originals that say Templar Tactical before they changed the name to Crux
I love em..
I have an Archangel direct thread and two Nemesis 30s with the PMS mount (that can is what led me to them originally for my 6.8) and a 5.56 7.5"

What is cool and I didn't believe it when Curtis told me is that I could interchange mounts, switch between the PMS Nemesis 30 and the direct thread Archangel and have some POI. I tested this many times when I first got the cans and have done so since.. Even this last weekend, I took a rifle that I originally had a mount with the Nemesis30 that was sighted in, I decided to run the Archangel instead and went hunting with it without confirming zero with confidence. I hadn't actually tested that on this particular rifle that has a light profile 17" 7mm08 barrel. After the hunt Sat AM I walked over to the range and center punched a 2" steel target at 100 yards.

The only rifle I have ever shoot un-suppressed is my 5.56 AR, I have two uppers, a 14.5 and an 18". Those brakes I did time so they ports go to the side as they should. The others I don't worry about at all. I have brake mounts, the direct thread mount and flashhider mount, all are interchangeable with zero POI shift.

I should add that I move mounts around to different guns, have to take mounts off to test silencers, etc..

If you are going to set and forget there is no reason not to use Rockset

Awesome, I really appreciate you sharing your experience with the Crux cans, you made me feel even better about buying one and waiting a year for it!

I’ll likely never change out the PMS mounts, so using Rocksett seems to make a lot of sense. What would you suggest I use to time the PMS mounts? Crush washers? Peel washers? Shims? One will go on an AR, the other on a Tikka CTR 6.5C with a 20” barrel. Thanks again for the help!

This is what I've done with all of mine. Medium strength lock tight on the brake, and proper torque. Nothing on the can itself. I have a 6" Crux can and have never had an issue with it getting loose and I use it on several different rifles.

For indexing I use something similar to this....

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...e/washers/muzzle-shim-kit-prod96012.aspx

Thanks Huck, I think that’s exactly what I’ll need!

T

Well put.

Finally got my suppressor this week, will install everything this weekend by using shims and Rocksett on the brake mount to time it and keep it there!

When you guys attached your brake, did you need to put the barrel in a vise? How did you make sure it was torqued correctly?

You don't need to muscle it on. Test your timing without the rocksett, then squirt a good amount on there and snug it down. It can help to use a quality anti-seize on the suppressor mount threads on the outside of the brake. helps to keep things removable instead of getting locked up with carbon.

Which brand anti seize and where do you get it?

I wouldn't put it in a vise but I would put pretty substantial torque on it.



I used some choke grease that came with one of my shotguns for anti-seize, so far it has worked well.

When I put my brake on my 300 win mag, I probably do not use 20 foot pounds of torque and it does not loosen up. But I have a Little Bastard brake that self indexes so it tightens against it self and locks down real good.