We’re trying to sell our house. Have it under contract and the inspector flagged the pop off valve on the water heater for running up hill. Picture below. How big of a deal is this? If it’s a big deal, cheap way to fix it?

Not a plumber. Maybe extend the pipe at the water heater and pop off and redo the copper.

they make t&p valves with longer necks on them. You have to be careful when trying to extend with a nipple and a coupling because the temp probe needs to remain in the tank to be accurate/functional.
Third party inspectors are a pita.

Not a plumber but....But, the issue is that set up is not self draining. When the T&P valve seaps water, calcium deposits will prevent the full flow if the heat/pressure needs to vent. A catastrophic tank rupture could occur. Only solution is to replumb. It may require removing water heater to gain access to wall behind heater.

At least, that is my understanding. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

I see what you're saying. I'm thinking I'll buy a taller valve, and connect pex so that it's running downhill to the wall. From the wall it goes down and outside so just need to get rid of that one 90 elbow.

Codes don't always make sense. It it is a pop-off valve that could fail, the water is under pressure. I don't see how pushing water up hill in that photo scenario makes any difference.

I'm a Realtor and deal with these negotiations. If you are getting a price that is satisfactory to you, and if the inspector didn't do the the most CYA inspection, weigh it out.

The thing is, it made no sense from just the pictures to run it that way. There may be a horizontal fire block in the framing right there. Who knows?

In real estate "inspection findings" are negotiable. I don't see a genuine problem there.

If the buyers are making a big deal of it, they don't know how pop-off valves work, or they are looking for a price concession. I would NOT offer to have it corrected. You could be dealing with several trades.

You would have to get a drywall contractor to coordinate with a plumber, which is next to impossible. Then there is paint. If it is a big deal to them I would tell them to consult with their Realtor and come back with a price amendment to the contract. We rarely recommend a seller making this type of repair. It is just opening the door to future problems with they buyer accusing the seller of a shortcut.

Now it gets down to "what do your wan't?" A price concession is the path of least resistance. If you are dealing with an older person with some practical knowledge they will know that this isn't a problem. If you are dealing with young first home buyers that don't know anything at all about plumbing, then the inspection report spooked them

100% what Danny said

And I meant to say, "We rarely recommend a seller make this type of repair."

Negotiate money, not repairs. Get it over with and behind you at the closing.

I am not unfamiliar with home inspections. This should not be a show stopper. But, this is a SAFETY issue, you should loook for a quick fix. Plus, you need a licensed plumber at the stage of the game.
If one of the wall is an outside wall, a new penetration is an easy job.
If the heater is several years old, replacing heater is near. Correcting line will be easy at that time.
If it was my sale, I would be happy splitting the cost of a new heater with buyer.

If this was an HVAC issue and you were my customer, I would tell you to offer them cash.
Buyer is the new homeowner. Negotiate and move on. Just like selling a used car that needs tires.

What happened here is it looks like the heater was replaced with a shorter model than the previous. Everything had to be lowered. I see the calcium deposit snafu, and potential damage....but not likely. If it is seeping, you will see it outside eventually and replace. If it actually over pressurizes and blows, it will do so at 150psi. A couple of 90's isn't going to impede much at that point.

Was thinking same thing. Simply build a short platform to put under water heater and pan. Raise whole unit 3 inches and Replumb the valve.

It could be raised with some concrete blocks.

Raise water heater or buy a taller one. Easy peasy.

Or tell them you'll knock off $100 & leave it as-is.

That's an extremely petty problem to hold up a sell.

shut off water, cut elbow at horizontal pipe, clean with sandpaper or emory cloth, install new pop off and sweat or pex the new connection.

about 3 hrs. for a rooky but still an easy job. $17.00 part and some time

home depot, even if it is long you are now down hill. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cash-Ac...AwnMEAQYBCABEgJcPfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Can't use pex. Copper or CPVC.

cpvc then for ease of use

Incorrect, Pex is legal in Texas

Well after all that, I told them to fly a kite on that issue. Told them I’d do 10 of 17 things they wanted. Lot of knit picky stuff. The said they were mostly concerned with roof repair (some bad shingles) and chimney repair (some mortar cap repair). Sooooo why ask for 17 things if you want 2? 🙄

To see how much you would bend and give in

Not according to the 2 different plumbers that came to my house a couple weeks ago due to someone using pex on my shop then it having to be changed to CPVC.
Are you a plumber? Were they both lying to me?
I had to have the drain pan drain & T&P valve drain both changed from pex to CPVC.

One of the great things about plumbing code in the US....local code always supersedes. What flys in Fort Worth, may not fly in Cleburne....etc. joe blow city inspectors can make it hell on these guys.

Lied? Maybe, I suspect they didn't know the codes. I have seen numerous new built houses where they used PEX. If you ever have any questions you can contact you local city plumbing inspector and get the correct answer.

No any more in Texas, Starting September 1st city code can't go above code book. House Bill 2439 signed in June will prohibit government entities from regulating building material and construction methods

Are you a plumber RR? Honest question. I could be wrong, but the way I understood the bill is that the cities can still adopt their own codes, as long as it doesn’t directly negate standard building code?? See section 5; https://www.tml.org/DocumentCenter/View/1247/HB-2439-QA