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Window Openings #7627243 10/08/19 03:36 PM
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Planning on building a couple of 6x6 blinds about 6' off the ground. What size window openings do you guys recommend? I'd like to use actual windows of some sort that when closed are pretty sealed up to keep outdoor insects out. I found some 12"x30" windows that slide open which gives about a 12" opening for about $25 from the local hardware store. They also have a 24"x24" slider for a few bucks more.

Last edited by Sick Train; 10/08/19 03:46 PM.
Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7627324 10/08/19 05:15 PM
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the wider the better in my opinion. 12" sounds pretty narrow to me depending on what field of view you have.


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Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7627337 10/08/19 05:27 PM
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I would do two 24 sliders on each side except the side with a door. 24x24 should give plenty of space to shoot a gun or a bow out of too.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7627356 10/08/19 05:50 PM
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Thanks. I like the idea of the 24x24 but was just worried that it would be too big of a window.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7627409 10/08/19 06:44 PM
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You can always fashion up some sort of shade for the window if you want, there's lot of examples out there and since this is a DIY, you can make a little rod above and belwo each window to hold the shades closed when you aren't using the window to help protect against silhouette

Lots of options there, including simple window tint

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7627437 10/08/19 07:15 PM
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I make my windows 12" high by 24" wide, full size. If I use a 12x24 slider I would obstruct the non movable glass so it would not silhouette you. Still have a visual site through it.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7627490 10/08/19 08:16 PM
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These slider windows are designed to mount horizontally, would there be any issues if I mounted them vertically so that I would have a 24” wide opening?

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7628188 10/09/19 03:15 PM
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After some researching I found out that I they are built to be mounted a certain way so looks like I'll be using the 12x30 sliders. I'm considering using smart siding 4x8 sheets for the walls. Any of you guys used them on blinds? Other option is R panel over some OSB plywood to keep the woodpeckers from putting holes.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7628622 10/09/19 10:22 PM
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I have and/or built several using smart siding, works very well. I use 2x2 for wall and ceiling frame work, deck screws in smart siding, OSB on the roof covered with corrugated sheet metal slightly overlapping all the way around to form a drip ledge. 2x6 treated floor frame with 5/8 OSB floor. Then go by a carpet place to see if they have scrap carpet that they've removed from a home they did a new install. Very solid but also pretty heavy depending on size you are building. Solid enough to use the steel leg brackets to use 4x4 posts to elevate.

Personally, I would spend a little more money to get a wider window than 12"-15" opening. Check out a Habitat For Humanity to see if they have any for considerably cheaper. the windows in my 4x6 are 36 wide on the ends and 2x 24" on the front and 18" on the back on each side of the door. I can always leave one closed or covered to help prevent silhouette.


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Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7629076 10/10/19 01:18 PM
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I thought about using 2x2 for the walls and roof but figured that spending a little extra on 2x4's would make it more solid. I plan on these blinds staying out there for many years and only want to repaint them as needed. Wouldn't treated plywood be better than OSB on the floor? I do plan on using those steel leg brackets on both blinds. I might even make them a little bigger so that I don't waste material. Thinking of 8x6 box with a 2' platform, door will be on the back side. I'm 6'4" so the bigger the better and there is usually two of us in the blind.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7629177 10/10/19 03:40 PM
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the 2x2 seem very structurally sound using the smart siding and deck screws. only reason I used the 2x2 was for reduced weight since I was putting up on a tower, even using a FEL it was pretty heavy getting to 10' floor height. OSB seems to work fine on the floor since it stays dry. I'm 6'3" and the 4x6 seems to work fine even with 2 people in it. I have another I built a few years back that is 6x6 that also works well (better) for 2 people. All of mine have 6'8" inside clear height.


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Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7629245 10/10/19 04:46 PM
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Thanks for the help. I might give the 2x2's a try. Plans are to prefab it at home then take everything out there and install each wall one at a time with the roof being last.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7629342 10/10/19 06:55 PM
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that's how I set mine up. prefab each wall and floor ... then cut the roof to fit


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Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7629378 10/10/19 07:40 PM
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Thin plywood, 5/16" untreated. Build your walls independent of each other. Wherever plywood is fastened to framing, use glue and finish nails. The roof is an over sized cap, screwed to the walls from the inside, roof material is corrugated plastic. Windows are from deerview, two custom lengths, two standard. Three coats of paint rolled on. Carry one wall at a time up tower and screw the whole thing together. Save your money for the windows, and the roof material. Walls and framing are cheap. 2 x 2" is fine, I use a combination with 2 x 4". [Linked Image]
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Last edited by onlysmith&wesson; 10/10/19 07:46 PM. Reason: .

An unethical shot is one you take, that you know you shouldn't.
Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7629381 10/10/19 07:43 PM
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I just finished this one recently. Windows hinge up, and out of the way. Sliders obstruct your shooting opening. Two windows are 48", two are 36" giving me a solid corner to sit against. With the windows open I have an unobstructed shooting field on all sides. Openings are 12" high.

Last edited by onlysmith&wesson; 10/10/19 07:51 PM. Reason: .

An unethical shot is one you take, that you know you shouldn't.
Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7629414 10/10/19 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Sick Train
Thanks for the help. I might give the 2x2's a try. Plans are to prefab it at home then take everything out there and install each wall one at a time with the roof being last.

Consider one wall being last. Kinda tough heaving the roof up and over the walls. Last wall slides in on it's side then tilt it up.

Last edited by onlysmith&wesson; 10/10/19 08:17 PM.

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Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7629512 10/10/19 10:21 PM
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I built my blind a 4x4x6-8 prefab at home. On a 10 ft stand. Pulled the walls up with a rope, install 3 sides then pull up roof section lay on top of walls off set. Pull up last wall and secure to other walls slide roof over walls and secure. I did this by myself. Built with 2x2 and 1/2" plywood.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Dalee7892] #7629579 10/10/19 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dalee7892
I built my blind a 4x4x6-8 prefab at home. On a 10 ft stand. Pulled the walls up with a rope, install 3 sides then pull up roof section lay on top of walls off set. Pull up last wall and secure to other walls slide roof over walls and secure. I did this by myself. Built with 2x2 and 1/2" plywood.

That works. For deer hunters this rings true, "Necessity is the Mother of Invention".


An unethical shot is one you take, that you know you shouldn't.
Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7630805 10/12/19 05:57 PM
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Thanks fellas. With the help of a fellow THF member I was able to get some windows from McCoys. Two different sizes, 24x11.5 and 36x11.5. Question on installing smart siding, can I use a framing nailer?

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7631260 10/13/19 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sick Train
Thanks fellas. With the help of a fellow THF member I was able to get some windows from McCoys. Two different sizes, 24x11.5 and 36x11.5. Question on installing smart siding, can I use a framing nailer?

Yes, ring nails.


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Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7633226 10/15/19 05:10 PM
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Any of you guys use those folding brackets with some wood for a shooting rest inside your blind? I've used regular fixed brackets on our old blind but like the idea of being able to fold it down and out of the way. Just not sure how well they work.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7633287 10/15/19 06:05 PM
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I'd stay away from folding brackets. Use the largest diagonal cuts you can get by with in each corner. Just screw thick plywood directly to your framing. Scroll up and look at how I attached these under my windows. I have a very solid front and rear rest for shooting in any direction.



Last edited by onlysmith&wesson; 10/15/19 06:07 PM. Reason: .

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Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7638856 Yesterday at 01:20 PM
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How do the large diagonal cuts work as a shooting rest? I need something in front of me to rest my AR10 on while sitting and waiting and used a 1x6 with metal brackets to help with that.

Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7638883 Yesterday at 01:50 PM
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I want to be able to shoot 360°, I don't leave my rifle setting, it's typically in my lap or held vertically until I get on something. I can keep my chair in the center of my 54" blind without giving up any space to the wall where I'm sitting. (A 6" would take up 1') Screwing these to the frame from underneath corner to corner adds to the rigidity of the blind and they don't flex when I put my weight on them as a bracket may. I tried these out at home and have plenty of reach for a front and rear rest. Works for me. If your blind is 6' x 6' these may not work for you.


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Re: Window Openings [Re: Sick Train] #7639016 Yesterday at 04:36 PM
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I just finished building and putting this one out. It's 48" x 83 1/2". The 48" is to save on the roof, flooring, and ends by not needing more than one width of plywood. The 83 1/2 is two 12"x36" windows split by a 2x4 and cornered at the front by 2x4s (which we know are 3 1/2, so 36+36+3(3.5) = 83.5. I used 24" windows on the sides but probably should have used 36". I'll take interior pics next trip. Base is treated 2x6 with 3/4" plywood. Most of the other supports are ripped 2x4s to save lumber and weight. Corners are all trimmed in metal flashing. It has a cheap plywood door for now but will get one likely from Deerview. I got the windows at McCoys. I would have liked a 14-15" tall window if they were available. I used screws almost exclusively, the only place a few nails were used were extra connectors for the wallplates to the floor. Door is in the center of the back wall which is solid (no windows) at this point.


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