I have that new VX5HD 3-15 CDS scope, and like it a lot. You get that one free dial that is matched to your ballistics, so I ordered it, with zero at 200 yards. That’s where I usually sight in the rifles for hunting. But later I decided that I’d rather have a dial set for a 100 yard zero (for paper punching mostly), so I paid $85 for the new one. It came in the mail recently, so I decided to install it this morning.

And Ok, here’s where I show low intelligence, but I decided to pass along my experience just in case one of you is as dim as I am before coffee.

I took off the 200 yard POI dial but could NOT figure out how to defeat the zero stop to adjust the scope for the closer distance. I read all the data they sent and went to the internet for more info. There is nothing I could find to explain how to do it. So, I had coffee and sat down to ponder this issue. Went back to the barn workshop and looked it over one more time. Hmmmm, the adjustment post has a flat blade screwdriver slot. Had not noticed that before. Could it be THAT simple. Well....yes. I took the screwdriver and made the estimated number of clicks, installed the new 100 yard CDS dial and put two in the 5/8” target dot at 100 yards.

Ok, there is nothing on the internet about this because apparently anyone with half a brain could quickly figure out what to do. But, in case you are as slow as me, the above is how you do it.

I guess the other one has a zero stop at 200? Or couldn't you just dial the correction for 100 yards then swap turrets?

No experience with them, but seems like it would at least get you close.

All of mine have a 200 yd zero. Not sure why anyone needs one @ 100yds.

So you can get a perfect zero, with no wind error.

All corrections from a 100 yard zero are impact UP.

I have the 100 yard zero for paper punching purposes. When the season starts I’ll probably set the dial to 200.

As for dialing the 200 yard turret to 100 yards and then installing the 100 yard turret was exactly what I thought I’d do, until I ran into that zero stop that would not let me do that. Had to take off the turret dial, make the estimated click adjustment with the screwdriver and install the new 100 yard dial. Sound pretty simple now, but it took me an hour or more to figure it out.

This is the 260 I got from Chad. My Lord this gun will shoot. Truly amazing.

Do you feel yourself more capable with the new glass? As in “lord this gun will shoot” being more evident now?

I noticed the CDS-ZL2 would not dial below the zero stop when I first got mine. However the windage knob will dial both sides of the zero stop as it should. I left mine in moa instead of having a custom dial. I may experiment with that when I get a chance and see what the difference is. It may be as simple as pulling both caps and seeing what the difference is then pulling out the dremel. Or not.

10mph is < .5” non 30-30 cartridges of course

What is that .5" times 10?

Applies to me.

Wp75169, I can’t say that this scope is the reason it shoots so well, but it is great glass. That said, I suppose I’m just not as picky as some folks about glass. The previous scope was a Vortex Viper PST 4-16 FFP, and I liked it a lot. Shot a bunch of deer, coyotes, and pigs with it. I didn’t crank it up and down a bunch like some folks do or did, but I did work it a bit and it worked fine. It’s boxed up right now, since I don’t have a gun that needs a scope. I’d still be using the Vortex, but I wanted the firedot. That has raised my game on shooting black hogs in dim light.

As for why the rifle shoots so well, Chad had it put together for me in 260. A Tikka T3 with a #4 Brux barrel. If I had to make one shot on a postage stamp at 200 yards, for a bunch of prize money, it would be either that rifle or my 220 Swift that was set up and rebarreled by Lex Webernick of Rifles, Inc.

I love the rifle and the scope. Can’t wait for cooler weather so I can comfortably pig and coyote hunt.

603 thanks for the reply, I know the rifle shoots well because it’s well made, I was just curious if the scope allowed you to shoot it better. A quality Smith is an amazing thing compared to factory fodder.

At the distances I shoot, I suppose significant differences in glass might be hard to determine. Surely if I shot out to 500 or further, I’d see differences at max magnification. As for shooting at dawn and dusk, i’ll know more in a month or so. Those pigs and coyotes operate in low light.

Many don't get that.^^

Same man, same lathe that built 603's, does all of mine. Highest quality humanly and machinery possible. If one he built isn't shooting 1/4 MOA, I'm not on the right powder charge.