Question for you CTR shooters........how hard is it to remove the factory rail? What do you recommend as a good 20MOA replacement? Thanks.

I doubt it is any more than backing out the screws. If it is, apply heat.

All of mine wear EGW 20 MOA pic rails. Always fit, great price, never break, U.S. Made.

Thanks. I've read (I know that's dangerous) that the CTR rail is epoxy'ed in place, bedded I guess, which is why I asked.

I do not know how it’s attached but I second EGW.

I've heard they are a pain in the butt to get off. There really isn't a compelling need to replace it for most folks, so it doesn't matter too much. But I've heard you definitely need to heat it up to get it off.

Worst case you can leave it on and get a 20 MOA riser (and then add a stock pack to help with cheek weld).

That sounds dreadful.

Is this true? Seems real odd to me.

I have an extra one I am not using..
Talley, 20 MOA Tikka, black

never installed

40 shipped

True. Heat gun will help.

With a decent optic you shouldn't need a 20MOA rail to go as far as any of the three offerings in a CTR will take you.

That said, yes, you're going to need either a small torch or an iron to heat that sucker once you take the screws out.

Here's what one person did:
http://www.tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/ctr-pic-rail-removal/

that is true

you can not just use torx/allen bit to remove

you'll have to heat it up , soften everything , then remove

To address QSYB, I'm aware it's not mandatory, as it wears a very good optic now (LRHS). I just want to ring it out waaay out there to a mile. Given the verification that these are indeed epoxy bedded in place, I'll probably just go to a Burris Signature ring with 10MOA inserts in front or back for the additional 20 MOA. Will be far easier. Thanks for the replies guys.

The LRHS should have plenty of travel. I'm sure the rings with inserts would work, but I always advise against adding scope mounts that have added complexity. That's the first thing that will fail. You might also consider a unimount with 20 moa built in. Badger makes a really solid one, and it won't break the bank. Unimounts are really nice because if you ever have to take it on/off the rifle, it'll come pretty dang close to return to zero if you torque it back the same.

Badger Unimount

BO306-96 30mm Alloy 20 MOA 1.30" ring height, 4.65" long

Thanks Crews, but I've used Burris Sig rings for years, some on hard kickers, no problems. Nothing complex about it.

1 mile! Good luck, post some pics when you do it!

I said attempt!!!!!! I just like shooting, and plan on seeing how far out there I can go. No guarantees how successful I'll be but I don't really care, it's all fun to me, and certainly not my identity.

Leupold makes a 1 piece mount with 20 MOA cant

you will destroy/stripped the screws on that Tikka base mount taking it off

1 mile ? go for it

if you shoot at it long enough you'd hit it,,,, I promise

I hit that same snag with my CTR. The thought of heating up the action just didn't sound like something I wanted to do on a rifle that was shooting great, so I just left the factory rail on it. I was able to get to 1000 yards before I ran out of dial on the Nightforce SHV.

That's a little surprising that you ran out at 1,000.

I currently have about 16 mils remaining on my Delta Stryker 4.5-30 that's on my CTR 6.5 CM. I think that would get to about 1,400 yards, and then you have holdover after that. But a mile with 6.5 CM is really pushing it anyway. Most other rounds more appropriate for a mile require less correction than that.

I am very well aware of that as well.

Not blaming you for pushing it. Let us know how it goes.

I'm interested in seeing what happens between 1300 and 1500 yards

It'll go where he tells it to, provided his wind correction is appropriate.