Nice grind. I like the profile as well. Are you going to sharpen the top grind edge?
The top edge won’t be shaving sharp but it will have a slight edge to it.
Thanks everyone. Grinding is definitely an art in itself and not something you learn in a day.
MikeC, how far do you take your sanding before you heat treat? I’m sanded to 150 right now, and not sure if I should go further before heat treat or wait.
Nice grind. I like the profile as well. Are you going to sharpen the top grind edge?
The top edge won’t be shaving sharp but it will have a slight edge to it.
Thanks everyone. Grinding is definitely an art in itself and not something you learn in a day.
MikeC, how far do you take your sanding before you heat treat? I’m sanded to 150 right now, and not sure if I should go further before heat treat or wait.
On 1095 I take it to 240 grit. 320 on O1 and 400 on Damascus. Stainless go to 600 or higher depending on what I have in mind for the final finish.
On 1095 I take it to 240 grit. 320 on O1 and 400 on Damascus. Stainless go to 600 or higher depending on what I have in mind for the final finish.[/quote]
I was afraid you were going to say that! Lol
Thanks for the info, I’ll take it to 220/240 tomorrow before heat treat. This one is likely going to be cold blue finish so I want to get the finish sand pretty even for sure.
FiremanJG: I made it with stabbing in mind for sure, which is why I did the false edge on top front half, but also gave it the big belly for slicing
Heat treat will be done in a propane forge. Heat to non-magnetic, then soak a min longer then quench in oil. Then 2 temper cycles at 450° For 2 hours each cycle.
Nice work sir, in looking forward to seeing it finished, the scales are going to make it pop and a blued finish in the steel will make for a beautiful tool.
Heat treat will be done in a propane forge. Heat to non-magnetic, then soak a min longer then quench in oil. Then 2 temper cycles at 450° For 2 hours each cycle.
I thought so, I was wondering why you are using 1095 considering it is a hypereutectoid steel. The non-magnetic trick works great on 1084. The soak time is critical, if you soak 1095 in a gas forge you going to get grain growth and have a brittle knife, there is no way of controlling the temp in a gas forge. If you're not using a fast oil like Parkes 50 or brine, it's like doing you know what in the wind! You're not going to get a fast enough nose drop in the required time. 1095 is one of the trickiest high carbons to heat treat correctly. Controlled heat source is a prerequisite for 1095.
I'm not getting on you but I hate to see you ruin that nice profile, I'd send it out for heat treat. I know other knife makers will back me up, no one sounded probably because they didn't want to hurt your feelings, but is a knife forum. Hopefully we can learn something from each other.
Stay away from YouTube Videos, I've cringed on some of the crap I've seen on there. You can always PM me or Mike C if you have a question brother.
Heat treat will be done in a propane forge. Heat to non-magnetic, then soak a min longer then quench in oil. Then 2 temper cycles at 450° For 2 hours each cycle.
I thought so, I was wondering why you are using 1095 considering it is a hypereutectoid steel. The non-magnetic trick works great on 1084. The soak time is critical, if you soak 1095 in a gas forge you going to get grain growth and have a brittle knife, there is no way of controlling the temp in a gas forge. If you're not using a fast oil like Parkes 50 or brine, it's like doing you know what in the wind! You're not going to get a fast enough nose drop in the required time. 1095 is one of the trickiest high carbons to heat treat correctly. Controlled heat source is a prerequisite for 1095.
I'm not getting on you but I hate to see you ruin that nice profile, I'd send it out for heat treat. I know other knife makers will back me up, no one sounded probably because they didn't want to hurt your feelings, but is a knife forum. Hopefully we can learn something from each other.
Stay away from YouTube Videos, I've cringed on some of the crap I've seen on there. You can always PM me or Mike C if you have a question brother.
I certainly appreciate the info! This is annealed 1095 bar stock and the info I found said no normalization required like with forging a billet. Heat to non-magnetic then heat 1 min more then quench and it did say a rapid quench/cooling is needed. Being that I don't have a true shop and limited options/space i'm going to move forward with my plan of attach and see how it comes out. There will be lessons learned, and I embrace them good or bad. If it happens that this blade gets ruined in the process, then I learned what I Can't do with 1095 and will try again using another steel. Thus furthering my experience in all aspects of the knife making process and experience with how different steels behave.
Thanks again bjankowski and mikeC for the info and advice!
Well, here she is with all her flaws in tact. Learned a lot making this one. Hope the new owner I am giving it to enjoys it!
This is 1095 with a gun blue finish. Handle scales are Walnut with great figure to them and 5 coats of True Oil. Pins are combination of stainless and brass. There are a few scratches in the finish but overall, I am pleased with how this turned out and the "character" it has.
Thanks guys. Knife making has become an addiction... with each one it inspires me and gives me all kinds of ideas on what I want to do and how to do it better on the next one. Or inspires me to try something new.
Still in the “give them away” phase but hopefully I can eventually get good enough to where maybe some people would want to buy them/order a custom knife.