I'm in the middle of building a super slinger feeder and time to choose a spin plate. I used a 12v blower motor with 5/16 shaft in a 50 cal ammo box, feeder hangs high under a tripod, and want to get the widest diameter throw I can get out of it. As the title asks.... Opinions?

I like the tornado or swing gate from West Texas Feeder supply. I am amazed at how hard and far they throw with a good motor and strong battery.

I have used this one and it does throw corn a long distance with a 12 volt set up. You might have to drill out the center to fit since it was 1/4 shaft.
https://www.allseasonsfeeders.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/large-plate-spinner
I have heard this one will throw corn a long ways also on a 12 volt set up. It has a 1/4" hub also.
https://www.allseasonsfeeders.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/tornado-spinner-plate

If you can find a hub that is larger then swap the hubs out if the larger hub is a 2 piece bolt together type. I have drilled out hubs before to get them to fit if they have enough left for strength.

Thanks y'all. I started googling for that tornado spinner in 5/16 and found one or a knockoff of it on a premier feeders website that is 5/16. I'll give it a try.

The Rectangular Eliminator plates sling pretty hard. In a good 12V unit you don't want to stand next to one.

I second this. The corn stings pretty good if you aren’t far enough away.

If I had to guess the spinner plate off an old Spincast which has a top and bottom with fins in the middle should throw corn a mile with 12 volt blower motor. Nothing spills out the top for the most part, shoots out between the top and bottom plate.

Thats what I would use.

I'll 3rd it, get some kernals well of 50', enough force, I added a deflection plate on one side facing trees that are behind my TC, to keep corn in front

Got the spin plate. It is heavy duty and center weighted. Been sick so have not worked on it much, but I did manage to get the components roughed in to test them. As hard as this thing spins with the blower motor and a big 12ah battery, I figured adding a remote would be handier than having to use the test button on the timer.

That should work really well. I have the eleminator style round flat plates with 12 volt and it throws some corn about 10' outside my feeder pen(10 panel pens). That should throw it a long ways. I usually use an empty feed sack to hold up against the legs when I hit the test button if it does not have a 10 second delay. I have set a test time about 1 or 2 minutes after I walk away, then reset to normal times on timers that are immediate test.

That looks like a great set up!!! Where did you get the motor from?

The 5” stainless round cups will throw about a 75’ diameter on a 12 volt motor, and that is with it only 16@ off the ground or so.

HVAC motor is a common one that was used on several different make and model 1960s vehicles, PM351. I found a good deal for mine via ebay.

Good looking set up....can’t wait for the field report...

How much do you figure to have in it once it’s complete?

$37 on Amazon if it helps anyone https://www.amazon.com/VDO-PM351-Blower-...51+blower+motor

I got the motor for $18 and free ship. There are two more on ebay right now around that price. Battery is same as UB12120 from a battery co on ebay for $25 free ship. Beware individuals trying to sell used ones if you look there. Battery Plus locally wanted $44. And note the motor must be offset from center a little for that battery to fit in the 50 cal ammo can. I paid well below retail on the remote and the solar. Less than $25 each. Both from ebay resellers that probably got them for clearance after last season. Time to buy this stuff is early summer. Threaded rod for mounting I had leftover in my workshop. Ammo can was on hand as well. The Timer was full price around $65. I put a $4 external toggle switch with the remote receiver so I can turn off the sensor when I know I am not going to be there for a long time. It would draw power 24/7 otherwise. And added another $1 switch inside to a $2 adhesive led strip light in case I ever need to do maintenance on anything in the can. Those Wildgame remotes have terrible reviews with lots of returns. What I figured out is they will lock up at the slightest short or surge while connecting wires. What people don't know is you can disconnet the + and -, touch them together till you hear a click in the control box, and mine was fixed.