I went moose hunting last October and took my Cold Steel SRK(carbon V(5) blade) as my work horse knife, this is the first time I have really used this knife since getting it brand new years ago and I love the knife and it started out strong, cutting through thick moose hide and hair, but when it got dull I was having hell getting the edge back.

For this hunt I took the SRK, a cold steel master hunter and a cold steel large fillet knife; for sharpening I brought a 12" diamond oval stick and it worked flawlessly on both of my other knives but the SRK would not take back its factory edge.

Question being is that the SRK seems to have VERY steep edge geometry and I was wondering if you guys think its simply an issue of having a good knife sharpening professional take it and grind it down to a finer edge?......

It's all about edge geometry one reason I've never liked scandi or chisel grinds especially for skinning. I make skinners hollow ground and slicers flat ground. Scani or chisel grinds best function is wood carving.

As far as grinding in down to a finer edge, would depend on how good the temper is. I can take an edge as thin as a razor blade but it needs to be tempered correctly. Just depend on the tempering process and material, it could give you a brittle edge. I test all my knives by chopping antler before attaching the handle, I've had very thin edges that stood up with no problem, only because I've refined my quenching and tempered process.

I learned that in the early days of my knife making; I chopped through the pelvic bone of a buck and discovered edge damage. Ever since that day each knife is made with making sure none of my customers ever experience that with one of my knives.

The final working bevel on any knife with both primary and secondary bevels is 20+ degrees/side or 40+ degrees inclusive and that is a very steep angle compared to a single bevel to zero which is typically 12 degrees/side or 24 degrees inclusive. Compared to working bevel geometry, the type of steel is relatively unimportant.

You can make bevel geometry complicated but it's really very simple. The angle of the working bevel translates directly into performance when all other variables are equal. Now, go take a look at the high/obtuse working bevel angle of every knife you have or can purchase.

Care to translate that into English?

If all other variables are equal:

1. A low angle final bevel will perform better than a high angle final bevel.

2. Most knives have a high angle final bevel of 40+ degrees.

3. Some knives have a final working bevel of 24 degrees or less.

In other words, acute final bevel angles perform better than obtuse final bevel angles. Most people don’t know this because all they have ever used are knives which have very steep final bevel angles.

Thanks Bush Monkey...... And what angle would you suggest for a 6" blade with a primary purpose of skinning & gutting large mammals like moose and elk?

Several Alaskan guides and professional game processors have reported that final bevels in the 24-30 degree range perform better than higher angle bevels.

Which makes sense. Have you ever tried using a wedge of 40+ degrees compared to a wedge that is 25 degrees?

24 degree Saber Bevel vs Flat Ground with a steep 40+ degree final bevel. All flat and hollow ground knives have steep final bevels and comprise more than 90% of all knives out there. If you study the diagram, the answer to the question: "Which cuts better?" is pretty intuitive.

^^^^good stuff^^^^