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Mar 25th, 2012
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Replacing p-trap. #5427722 11/18/14 02:49 AM
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Brandon A Offline OP
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So I have a hole in my p trap. I want to replace it with PVC but it is all tied together with some kind of a putty or something. So should I just cut it with a saws all and get something that I can hook it all together with?
I'm not to keen on all the plumbing stuff so talk simple to me.




Last edited by Brandon A; 11/18/14 02:52 AM.

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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5427743 11/18/14 02:57 AM
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GUTIT Offline
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See if that coupling ring down low will unscrew, if it will then start over with new. That is all kinds of ugly.


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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5427750 11/18/14 02:59 AM
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Brandon A Offline OP
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Yes the ring down on the bottom will unscrew. Should I just cut the pipe coming from the bottom of the sink right above the first join and go buy some crap from lowes?


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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5427759 11/18/14 03:02 AM
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The drain coupling from the sink should come loose, as well...I'd take that off, replace it, remove that contraption (WHO THE HECK DOES THAT?) from the bottom nut, and then replace with stuff from Lowe's/Home Depot. WTH?

Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5427765 11/18/14 03:05 AM
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The big nut hugging the bottom of the sink should come loose with a big pair of channel locks fully opened...it shouldn't be extraordinarily tight/difficult to remove. You'll need plumber's putty for the new drain and pipe dope (whatever they call that) for the p-trap and remaining drain (or teflon tape, but I hate that junk).

Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5427774 11/18/14 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted By: Brandon A
Yes the ring down on the bottom will unscrew. Should I just cut the pipe coming from the bottom of the sink right above the first join and go buy some crap from lowes?


Good, take a pair of channel locks and unscrew that top set nut ring, cut the copper pipe an inch below the brass, then pull it up thru the sink. You can buy a new one(it should come with a rubber washer that will seal it to the sink, if not get a small tub of plumbers putty), a p-trap set and all the other needed material at any Lowes or Home Depot. If you buy the plastic pipe and fittings, it will come with nylon washers and you will not need any tape or putty.

If the sink drain starts to turn while you are loosening the nut you will have to wedge it. My crew has a tool that grabs it, makes it easier but you can do it without it.

Good Luck, you can do it.

Last edited by GUTIT; 11/18/14 03:12 AM.

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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5428225 11/18/14 01:22 PM
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No need to replace the sink drain unless you want to, just cut the pipe right above the putty and leave that straight pipe coming out of the sink to connect the new p-trap to. Take the pipe with you to get a replacement, might save you a trip.

Like this


Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5428289 11/18/14 01:59 PM
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Alright I'm gonna cut that pipe off this evening.


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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5428527 11/18/14 03:25 PM
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That guy should be taken out back and tarred and feathered.

If you want to replace the drain in the sink you can but Hancock is right, you don't have to. Might pick up some emory cloth while you are there to clean up that drain pipe, if you don't replace the sink drain.


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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5428675 11/18/14 04:17 PM
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I never could understand how I could put PVC together under pressure and never get a drip, yet I got leaks on drains.


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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5432790 11/20/14 01:04 PM
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I will go ahead and say this....if that drain is going in to the floor then what you have is an S-trap. You can buy every P-trap in the store and it will not fix what you have there.
s-trap= through the floor
p-trap= through the wall

Good luck.

Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5433074 11/20/14 03:22 PM
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good point topwater13!


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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: GUTIT] #5434345 11/21/14 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted By: GUTIT
That is all kinds of ugly.


up


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Re: Replacing p-trap. [Re: Brandon A] #5434427 11/21/14 02:30 AM
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topwater13 I was going to say the same thing.
Just a tip because I see so many people do it incorrectly and I get to fix and feel bad for having to charge the cone washer points towards the threads. So that when you tighten the slip joint nut, the nut hits the thick part of the washer. I hope I explained that so its easy to understand.

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