See video I loaded below. You guys know why it is running like that? Motor has been sitting in garage since January. I cranked it a few times over the summer, but now it is running like this. Could it be old gas?

http://s46.photobucket.com/user/FishingG...ivrybd.mp4.html

Slowly pinpoint it! Gas is cheap drain it! New plug! And go from there! Sounds like mine does when choke is on!

Sounds like bad gas, did you use a stabilizer in the gas when it was stored, if not drain the gas, it will separate over time if not used much.

And run some sea foam threw it You buy it at Walmart

Ethanol is the devil for small engines.

Intimidation from the mud buddy.

Sounds to me it is fuel related. Take everything fuel related off the engine. Clean or replace all of it. Put back on. Fill with fresh gas and A FUEL ADDITIVE LIKE I TOLD YOU 2 YEARS AGO.

Dont add it when you store after season, always run it. I use Stabil red and blue. Red for the fuel, blue to combat alcohol in fuel. I also add a lubricant such as marvels mistery oil to the fuel. Putting it in when you store it is like closing tje barn door after the cow gets out.

more than likely the carb needs cleaned. If it only wants to run on choke that means the pilot jet is clogged.

Yep. I got some of this stuff, it is helping. Supposed to get better and better the more I run it.

Fuel , fire, or air. I remember that Wayne!

If your motor has a rev-limiter, try disconnecting it and see if the motor runs more smoothly.

I went to Richardson Saw & Lawnmower, showed them the video, they said carburetor gunked up, they said try that carburetor cleaner I got. It's running much better, still not perfect... I'll give this a chance to work..

The problem with additive fixes is they can leave you stuck like Chuck. So the mechanic in a bottle clears that little itty bitty piece of gunk in the pilot jet. Runs great! The bad part is it won't happen until you are 30 miles up a creek they call dookie. Thats when the corners of the fuel tank release the gunk they were holding after being softened by the mechamic in a bottle.

I'll send this bit of advice one more time. You are not doing the right thing with an easy fix like Mechanic in a bottle. Take everything fuel related off, clean everything, replace what is needed and put it back together. It is a whole lot easier to do it in the driveway than to suffer a break down on the water.

I have found a few places that sell non ethanol gas here recently. When the boat needs filling up I usually bring extra cans and get as much of the stuff as I can. I then add vp racing fuels octane booster to it. Brings it up to 95 octane. I use it in all my small engines. My mudmotor in particular has run like a top since doing this.

I can't do all that in my driveway. I could take it all apart just fine , putting it back together would be the problem.

I may take it to shop and let them get it all fixed up. I was starting it few times a month during the summer and it was running fine. Here at the end of summer it might have gone a long stretch not being cranked up. The manual just says to turn the gas valve off to prevent this. What if you turn gas valve off, then burn all the gas off, will this prevent this issue? I guess you still get the build up in the tank.

Heck I may try and take it apart and clean it myself, and I will probably end up having to take it to the shop in a box so they can put it back together, and this would not be the first time this happened!!

I agree with wal1809

My father in law was corporate pilot who got his start as an A&P (airframe/powerplant) mechanic. He has fixed every small engine I've ever put in front of him and the process is always the same:

- drain fuel tank
- blow debris out of fuel tank
- check fuel filter
- blow out fuel line
- check/clean spark plug
- spray outside of carb with carb cleaner. Blow dry with compressed air
- disassemble carb and spray cleaner inside. (You can see the varnish and verify that it is removed.) Visually inspect and blow jet with compressed air.
- reassemble, test run, adjust carb as needed.

One thing I've observed from watching is he uses about 5x as much carb cleaner as I would think to use. This stuff is pretty potent. Hard to imagine a fuel additive having the same results.

We have a little Nissan 5 HP 4 stroke outboard for our 2 man Bass Buster. I am convinced that nothing is going to counteract the effects of Ethanol for a motor that sits. We now just clean the carb at the beginning of each season as a preventative. My FIL uses "ethanol shield" in all his lawn equipment but then again it is all run every week.

I get it Wayne, I need to run that stuff in it all the time. I remember you told me you put that in your motor 2 years ago, but I did not even have a boat then and did not get it.

Hey I can fix that for ya. But I'll need through Sep 28th to make sure I got it right...

I want to make sure you are clear. The stuff you have promises to reverse bad fuel. The stuff I am talking about is to stop it from going bad. Stabil blue and Stabil red is what you need to run all the time. that along with a lubricant in the fuel.

The stuff you have in your hand on that picture is what will get you in a pickle. What I mean is there is not one little peice of crap stuck in the pilot jet. More than likely you can put that stuff in and clear that out. But there will be more "Varnish" material in there, be it in the tank, the carb bowl, fuelk line, gas tank. Fuel doesn't go bad right at the pilot jet, it goes bad everywhere. Unless that stuff will completley disolve the entire stuff in the fuel system, I would not use it for a fix. It is way to easy to remove, clean and rebuild the carbs.

I learned the hardest way possible. I let the 2 carbs on my 4 wheeler, the one on my wife's 4 wheeler, my 2 stroke motor on my bay boat, 4 chainsaws and my Go Devil motor go for a season. I had to remove and clean every fuel system on every one of those items in a 6 month period. Never will I leave a carb unprotected from today's fuel. Never will I rely on a quick fix for a carb. Alcohol is the devil to these fuel systems.

What is even more of a pain in the A, is when you take a carb off a 4 wheeler. Clean it and you think you have it ready to go, put it all back together, only to find you have to tear it down again. Somewhere in there was a little piece I missed. The last time I did that I remember using compressed air through all the little holes on a 4 wheeler carb. This was the third time I had torn it down. I heard a little pop and then free flowing air. It was the varnish that made a plug in that hole and it popped free. Ran like a raped ape affter that.

I know what y'all are talking about

I fixed a lawnmower 4 times a few years ago for the same thing. Hired a lawn service when I got lazy, the mower sat in the shed a couple years. Fuel gunked up. Got laid off, had more time than money. Cancelled the lawn service, mower wouldn't run. My fishing buddies gave me a hard time for spending so much time fixing it when you could go to wally world and get a new mower for $150, but this mower was better built, maybe "worth" 3x.

In the end I ended up ordering some parts (simple carb rebuild kit) off the internet. Total outlay on my part was like $20 and several hours.

I am not "mechanically minded" Guy, but I had done a lawnmower in high school and knew I didn't have all the tools I might need but the problem was going to be carb.

Took it apart, took lots of pictures. Laid everything out like an exploded parts diagram. Cleaned everything and put it back together. After the initial priming pulls, was able to mow my lawn-- shutting it off and restarting on the first shot several times.

Week later I needed to mow again. Mower wouldn't start. Etc for a few shots. If I had done the whole fuel system I wouldn't have had to go through it all

I got real good at rebuilding that carb in an hour though!

A man yanketh the cord over and over again, learns to be a good carb mechanic

That foam wont completely clear it if the jet is clogged that bad... take the bottom bowl off the carb then you will see the jet tube going strait up into the carb assembly.(Taking the whole assembly off and apart is not needed 90% of the time!). depending on what motor (since I cant see the video only herd it) you should be able to back the main jet out with a small flathead... spray carb cleaner through it and run a fine piece of wire through it also then spray once more before you put it back in... very simple to do and IF its the carb it will fix the problem... I would also check your fuel lines.. if they are getting dry rotted it could be sucking air into the system.. its starving for fuel somewere that's for sure... could also be in the fuel shut off or inline filter.. maybe even the tank outlet if its gathered enough gunk... Fuel line is cheap and can get it by the foot at napa..also can get the inline filter... dosnt need to be an exact brand just need to fit the fuel line.. and new hose clamps... all this can be done in your drive way... very cheap very easy. Drain the gas and put 93 octane back in it... then you wont have to worry about all the foams and additives. New spark plug also. Did all this to mine the other day cost about $30 and took about an hour.

Here's the motor. Thx guys..

Subaru Robin - 7 HP EX21

Oh running the motor once a month at least will help also.

The guys at Richardson Saw & Lawnmower called it "surging", they said it is doing it because carb is not providing a steady stream of fuel. I hunted/scouted 2 different lakes yesterday, at the end of the day it was not surging while giving gas, just when idling. This was a big improvement, it would not idle at all before. It would start easy tho, with the choke on.