Fiber glassed over 1/4" plywood for their blind? That's what I'm thinking about doing at this point. Just not sure of cost. I know it will be a PITA to do but.... Framework is made from 1.5" square tubing, so I know that is good. Thoughts?

Why not a metal skin?

Haven't ruled metal out of the equation. Just kicking options around, trying to find pros and cons to each.

I would just put the fiberglass over the corners and seams and keep a good coat of paint on it.???

I'm building a blind right now using individual fence pickets (5 1/2") and then covering up the gaps with a 3 1/2" pickets...all cedar. My thought is that if one gets damaged then I can just replace it with a new one and I'll never have to paint it either! Pm me if you want me to send you some pics. I'll post some once I get it all done this weekend and set up.

I built mine out of 1/2" exterior plywood painted each sheet separate on both sides and edges with good exterior primer and paint. The blinds are over 10 yrs old have painted once since in the field.

I use hardiboard now on all my blinds.

it is heavy but dang does the stuff last.

In the hot texas sun, hardiboard (or equivalent) is a great way to build a blind once and have it last for a decade and a half or longer. I have my trailer blinds made with hardiboard equivalent and it shows no wear for sitting in the sun for several years, when I have seen plywood or particle board rot away within as short a period.

I like Birddog's suggestion of glassing the corners and edges. That, with a good coat of good paint, would last forever, and be lots lighter than full glass.

X2 with TwinBubba, I have two 6 plus years old, no leaks on only minimal touch up painting. Sorry could not find pictures.

I am thinking about painting my plywood with DeckOver from Home Depot. You can paint concrete or wood with it and leaves a thicker coat than paint. It also comes in a variety of colors. Has anyone ever tried this product?

Cannot speak to the DeckOver but we just put Renue10X on two blinds. This is a material that is designed to go down on worn, weathered decks. It looks and applies like thick paint filled with sand. They claim long life for the material. Only warning I would give you is that the material is designed to go down on horizontal surfaces so paint the pieces before you put them up! Lets get a little time on the material and I will report back.

Just painted my deck with deck over. Worked pretty good. I talked to the paint rep and he said to make sure you use the cleaner 1st and let it dry. The direction say to clean the wood,let it dry for 48 hours, paint it and it cant rain on it for 24 hours. He also said not to apply if it is over 90 degrees. Thats hard in Iowa cant imagine how hard that will be in Texas. The rep said the paint will bubble and peal in a year or so if it is put on when it is to hot. The deck over worked great and looks good on the deck though.

I just built a 4x4 blind out of 1/2" treated plywood and treated 2x4's and I was suprised at how heavy it turned out to be. It was not that much lighter than a blind built out of hardiboard. But I would not use the treated plywood again. The plywood was still wet and new bundle that I bought. I built the blind and put it up in 100+ degree temps. The plywood warped as it dried over a 3 day period before I painted it. Luckly I caulked and put flashing on all the edges. Next one I do I will going back to hardiboard.