texashuntingforum.com logo
Main Menu
Advertisement
Affiliates
Advertisement
Newest Members
Stephen Alsop, DisplacedTxn, Aguirre_troy, Jrsandusky, Natedogg503
67457 Registered Users
Top Posters(All Time)
dogcatcher 104,255
bill oxner 74,605
stxranchman 56,727
SnakeWrangler 53,989
RKHarm24 44,585
rifleman 44,451
BMD 41,091
Gravytrain 40,831
Facebook
Forum Statistics
Forums45
Topics588,550
Posts11,093,027
Members82,457
Most Online19,184
Feb 5th, 2020
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) #2298284 05/09/11 03:29 AM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
T
texasspazzman Offline OP
Tracker
OP Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
I know I've missed some steps, but hopefully this will at least help a few guys with their own builds.
If you have question, post them in the build posts and I'll try to answer them.

I already posted some plexiglass window pics, but I'll add a few of the process here.

A few other things I do:
I paint the inside above the windows to give it a little bit of a blackout affect. It makes it tougher for the deer to see you in the blind.
Add carpet on the bottom edges of each window "after" the edges have been painted good.
I paint a primer coat and a couple of good exterior latex coats.
I caulk everything I can find after the primer coat...caulk is cheap. a couple of tubes makes a huge difference.
After everything is done and I move the stand out of my shop, I put tin on the roof.

That's basically it! I hope this helps some of you with your future projects!

Eric
Click here for start of project and pictures

Click here for details on hindges

Plexiglass Interior Windows











Last edited by jeh7mmmag; 05/09/11 04:51 PM.
Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #2298297 05/09/11 03:33 AM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 41,091
B
BMD Offline
Silver Spoon
Offline
Silver Spoon
B
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 41,091
Nice


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: BMD] #2298376 05/09/11 04:01 AM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,371
C
Chuck McDonald Offline
Extreme Tracker
Offline
Extreme Tracker
C
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,371
I don't know what to drool over the blind or the shop you have to work in.


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: Chuck McDonald] #2300346 05/10/11 01:36 AM
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 642
J
JonnyRay Offline
Tracker
Offline
Tracker
J
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 642
Man you rock. that thing should last forever


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: JonnyRay] #2301485 05/10/11 03:32 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 180
Q
quail2 Offline
Woodsman
Offline
Woodsman
Q
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 180
You might have already said but would you sell one of these blinds they are awesome!


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: quail2] #2301496 05/10/11 03:36 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
T
texasspazzman Offline OP
Tracker
OP Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
Originally Posted By: quail2
You might have already said but would you sell one of these blinds they are awesome!

Yes, I sell them. Shoot me a PM.


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #2303705 05/11/11 02:25 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 124
T
txjuggernaut Offline
Woodsman
Offline
Woodsman
T
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 124
This is one of the most helpful posts. The pictures are great. You mentioned the fact you painted the inside of the blind to give a blackout effect. I have a blind I built and I painted the interior OD green.... I have been thinking though, how to reduce the silloutte when the windows are open that I'll give that the deer can see. I came up with two options, what do you think?
1) I have wooden, flip open windows, not plexi or glass. I am thinking to paint the flip up windows on the exterior a light color (hay/grass colored) and PAINT A HUMAN silloute in each window. When the doors are actually OPEN the deer think less about it. Painting the windows on the outside light colored would contrast to the rest of the blind's OD green. I'm trying to simulate the windows always being open. Maybe adding the human sillouette is overkill or crazy, but I figure if it sits out there all year they will get used to it.
2) forget about painting the windows, just open them up during the hunt and use camo netting to hide me. (simplest solution).

Thoughts, comments or ideas anyone?


Last edited by txjuggernaut; 05/11/11 02:26 PM.
Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: txjuggernaut] #2303941 05/11/11 04:01 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
T
texasspazzman Offline OP
Tracker
OP Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
I do both...

When I paint my blinds, I always paint a dark area over the closed windows that gives the appearance of a hunter in the blind. I'm not sure that it helps, but it gives me confidence to think it does. I know when I stand back at 100+ yards, it looks to me like there's someone in there.

I also use camo netting to help hide movement.

I paint the inside black. From the deer's perspective, the inside of any blind is basically a dark shaded area. Black is the way to go. That's what the pop up blind manufacturers are going to also. I paint only from the window up, because with any elevation thats all they see. You can get 3 cans of the cheapest flat black paint you can find and do that easy.

I did something else to my blinds that helps. I've moved the side windows slightly forward. The 24" side windows are only 8" from the front and 16" from the back. That gives you some room in the back portion of the stand to sort of hide in the shadows. I also have only one small 16" window in the back. I seldom use it, but I like having the ability to "take a peek" behind me every once in a while.

Hope that helps!


Last edited by texasspazzman; 05/11/11 04:02 PM.
Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #2309112 05/13/11 09:19 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 853
M
murph Offline
Tracker
Offline
Tracker
M
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 853
What a great series texasspazzman! I have used the same basic concept but your ideas go the extra mile I have been looking for.



[Linked Image]
Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: murph] #2338545 05/28/11 02:02 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,810
J
jdickey Offline
Extreme Tracker
Offline
Extreme Tracker
J
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,810
Good looking blind! I had the same type hinges on my windows, but after three panels got broken, I decided replace with a nut/bolt attachment instead of the rivets. Lot easier to replace, when/if one breaks again.

We had a tornado hit our lease few years back, my blind was moved 30 yards from its original spot....but still intact!



Bigfoot Research Specialist
http://www.texlaresearch.com/
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: jdickey] #2355143 06/06/11 10:41 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 624
T
TJ Goodpasture Offline
Tracker
Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 624
Looks great. Not sure if you mentioned this in another post, but how much is this costing you in materials on average?


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: TJ Goodpasture] #2400080 06/30/11 03:40 PM
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 16
T
t/c hunter Offline
Light Foot
Offline
Light Foot
T
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 16
THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO....


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: TJ Goodpasture] #2464182 07/29/11 06:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
T
texasspazzman Offline OP
Tracker
OP Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
Basic build with no legs and no plexi windows...material cost for me is about:
4x4 = $200
4x6 = $250
4x8 = $325
Keep in mind, that's just basic materials. That's assuming you have all the tools, nails, screws, glue, etc.
If you detailed out all that other stuff if would add up to more.
I charge about $25/hour for my labor on em, so final cost is usually about $400-500 for 4x4 / $600-700 for a 4x6 / $800-900 for 4x8 / other sizes are figured individually.
Usually folks want legs, plexiglass windows, and other "stuff" added too, so the final cost can be a lot higher.


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #2464221 07/29/11 07:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,547
S
scot Offline
THF Trophy Hunter
Offline
THF Trophy Hunter
S
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,547
One question on the outside window coverings, how exactly do you attach your hinges? Just to the plywood? With the overhang that you do can you reach all the way to the 2x2?


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: scot] #2475744 08/03/11 12:14 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
T
texasspazzman Offline OP
Tracker
OP Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
Yes, you can hit the 2x2 with the screws, but just barely. I usually drop it down just a hair. I screw the hinge flush to the outside of the stand, and to the inside of the window. It leaves like a 1/16" space across the top, but I've never had issues with that. I simply grind off the points sticking out on the hinge screws, where they come thru the window piece.
Haven't come up with a better design...yet.


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #2784458 11/26/11 04:54 AM
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
R
russ1588 Offline
Green Horn
Offline
Green Horn
R
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
Why are you such a "stickler" on glueing everything? Does it help with creeking noises later? Great looking blind!


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: russ1588] #2894584 01/03/12 06:30 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
T
texasspazzman Offline OP
Tracker
OP Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
Good wood glue is a MUST for any woodworking. It will hold long after the wood shrinks and the staples/nails/screws no longer hold. A good wood glue will basically make the two pieces of wood hold together as one. Just try it, and be liberal with it. You won't regret it, I assure you!


Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #3528011 08/30/12 05:28 PM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 302
T
tapout Offline
Bird Dog
Offline
Bird Dog
T
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 302
I am not real good with wood work but did you cut the windows out with the router or another saw then run the router over them

Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: tapout] #3531711 08/31/12 09:59 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
T
texasspazzman Offline OP
Tracker
OP Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
Router

Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #3534314 09/02/12 02:26 AM
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 43
T
twelvetines Offline
Light Foot
Offline
Light Foot
T
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 43
I build my blinds amost the same way. some basic differences are that use one 2x2 in each corner of front, sides, and back. this way you can make each seperate and screw it all togather in the field. I build mine on 10' towers and stand the base first then pass each panel up and anchor them down one at a time. I use 3\4 plywood on the floor and build the outer band of the floor out of 2x6's cut on a 45x10 compound angle so i will have the right pitch on my legs when i bolt them to the band. The top of the 2x6's are ripped on a 10 degree cut so the plywood will lay flat for the flooring. Nice job I love the design.

Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: twelvetines] #3549389 09/07/12 02:52 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,615
billybob Offline
Extreme Tracker
Offline
Extreme Tracker
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,615
How come you guys don't use OSB for walls and roof? It's cheaper and more moisture resistance than plywood.

Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: billybob] #3549717 09/07/12 04:48 AM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
T
texasspazzman Offline OP
Tracker
OP Offline
Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 799
Not sure where you ever got the idea that OSB is moisture resistant. Quite the opposite...if ANY water permeates OSB, it's toast! With a decent plywood, I can give it a quick pass with the sander before I paint it, and the surface is smooth and sealed...much less likely to be penetrated by water.
Show me a 20yr old stand made of OSB that's still in good shape...never seen one.
I can show you some of my stands that are 20yrs old, and they're in better shape than most 5yr old stands...proof is in the puddin!

Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #3576231 09/16/12 08:33 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 15
R
RichH Offline
Light Foot
Offline
Light Foot
R
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 15
Great build and thanks for all the tips!


Rich
Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: texasspazzman] #3991746 01/25/13 03:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 18,533
P
Pitchfork Predator Online Content
THF Celebrity
Online Content
THF Celebrity
P
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 18,533
Love the design, but am not sold on using plywood or any wood for the skin of the blind. Sheets of tin have worked great for me using a very similar frame design. Paints well and lasts for 20 years or more. I am very sceptical of any blind lasting more than 5 years that has any type of wood skin without needing major repairs. The tin skin also makes it much lighter to move around and you can screw everything together with weather proof washers.


Marc C. Helfrich
Retirement Planner

www.insured-wealth.com
469-323-8920
Re: Great Blind Design - part 7 (wrap up) [Re: Pitchfork Predator] #4009203 01/30/13 10:20 PM
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 389
H
Hill Country Stalker Offline
Bird Dog
Offline
Bird Dog
H
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 389
I hinged my exterior windows way they can be opened and closed from the inside. I used small diameter coated stainless wire instead of the twine.

I also use may of the same basic construction except I like to have the flexibilty to break it down and move on a trailer if i need to travel long distance. I basically build it more like a modular design.

great build and some fine carpentry!!!


BUCK
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Previous Thread
Index
Next Thread

© 2004-2019 OUTDOOR SITES NETWORK all rights reserved USA and Worldwide
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.3