Hey guys sorry for the newbie question here but I want to make sure I buy the correct stuff the first time around.

I'm trying to get set up to reload for my .308 and maybe eventually my .40 s&w. I ordered a Lee Classic Cast press yesterday that should arrive this week. I've been reading the ABC's of reloading book about equipment and process.

So, heres my question, the ABC's book says that most seating dies apply a crimp to the bullet. So, do I need a seperate factory crimp die?

Also, is there great advantage either way to neck sizing only vs. full length?

I'm going to be loading for hunting rounds predominantly. Its not a benchrest rifle and I don't shoot competitively. Do you guys have a brand recommendation?

Thanks guys.

HK

No crimp is necessary for the .308, as long as it's a bolt-action. The ARs in .308 may or may not need a crimp. Most rifle die sets will apply a crimp but it's best to adjust the die so that NO crimp is applied. Read the instructions that come with your die set. If you're shooting a bolt rifle, forget crimping. It's not necessary and won't provide any advantage.

The .40 S&W requires only a taper crimp and the die set should have a seater die that applies this type of crimp. Again, read the instructions that come with the die set.

Neck sizing is an advanced technique used for bottle-necked rifle cartridges. Learn to load using your conventional FL die set and get that down before venturing forth in advanced techniques. Get the basics down and fall into all the unavoidable pitfalls before complicating the process even further. Take your time learning the hobby.

I would suggest full length sizing for hunting loads. If you were loading for accuracy in a benchrest rifle neck sizing would be the way to go. In pistol calibers the seating die usually has the crimping feature machined into it. Once you have the die set for seating the bullet, you then back out the seater plug and screw the die body down a bit at a time until you start to crimp the case into the bullet. There are roll crimps and taper crimps. Roll crimps are usually used on revolver rounds. Taper crimps are used on semi-auto cases that headspace on the case mouth because you do not want to alter the overall length of the case. Once you have the crimp set then screw the seater plug back down till it contacts the bullet and your die is set to seat the bullet and crimp in one operation. Various companies to sell separate crimping dies so you can do the crimping in a separate step if you desire to.

Randy

Thanks guys. I'm starting to get my stuff together and learn as much as I can before I get down to it. Judging by the availability of components there is no need to be in a huge rush.

there is alot of reloading forums. Suggest you read as much as you can.

Measure the diameter of five loaded cartridges at the neck in thousanths. Subtract two thousanths. Buy an RCBS or Redding bushing full length sizer die and bullet seat die as a set, no crimp die at all for bolt action. You will buy the bushing seperate to the subtracted two thousanths you came up with from the measuered case.

Hopefully you got, at least five brass that have been fired from that rifle. You need the Hornady head space guage that fits on your dial caliper. Measure the shoulder of all five brass and get an average. They may only vary two thousanths either way. Place a fired case in the shell holder, run it up, screw down the die until it's touching, return the ram to he down position, turn the die in 1/8 more. Size the bass, take a measurement. Keep at it until you have the shoulders "bumping" two to three thousanths shorted than the rifle's chamber. Lock it down!

This will give you brass that has been minimally sized to fit in the chamber, it will produce the most speed for a given powder charge (energy is used to flow the brass forward to fit the chamber), once it has been fired again it will still eject. I've seen many a shooter beat on a bolt handle due to stuck brass. Neck sizing only is no good!

Setting up your bullet seat die is another matter. I'll get into it unless you've already figured it out.

Full length resizing "works" the brass which can reduce the number of reloads before the cartridge case splits or otherwise becomes unusable. Neck sizing works well as long as you use the neck sized cases in the same rifle every time.
Caveat, neck sizing will eventually cause the neck brass to thicken, making it necessary to turn the necks down for uniformity (bullet release tension). IMO thats the problem with crimping..bullet release tension with crimped necks is a crapshoot..

Is ten loading from one piece of brass enough? Because I have some that are on number ten. This is where you get into the need for annealing.

Sizing and firing brass work hardens it, but neck sizing is a good way to get brass stuck in a chamber. I've seen bolt handles broken off trying to unstick brass that wasn't sized properly. This has been at matches where 6000 rounds of bolt action ammo has been fired by competitive shooters and every one of the experienced shooters full length size with a .002" to .003" shoulder bump.