Triad ZL showed up

http://www.horizonfirearms.com/triad-zl.html

got these a couple of days ago......just got a chance to play with them


had derrick hit them with some color to match the gun he made for me.

Great mounts so far, kinda of hard to align the gun, scope, and level on the rings at the same time....

You need a non-swivel bipod, or a swivel bipod tightened, or a rifle vise. With any one of those supporting the rifle, get the platform on a table, with the rifle pointing at a known level object, vertically or horizontally. Place a 6" level on the pic rail, and make adjustments until the pic rail is level. Install the bottom half of the rings, place the scope inside, and set eye relief. Once that's done remove the scope and recheck level on the pic rail. Put the scope back and rotate until the reticle is parallel to the level object down range. Put the ring caps on, they should read level if you haven't moved the rifle adjustment. If things aren't lined up, make the anti-cant level, level, and rotate the scope until the reitcle matches the level object down range.

I think the issue was there was cerakote on the inside of the rings so the scope was not moving as freely as other ring install, so making fine tune adjustment was hard.


Other than that build of these rings is awesome

JG, I understand how to level a scope, but what kills me is the tightening of the top rings and it moving the scope. I was told to use hand sanitizer on the rings because it will allow the rings to tighten without the friction to move the scope. But I've been afraid to use the alcohol based sanitizer on expensive scopes. Any suggestions?

I've slathered acetone on scopes. Alcohol wouldn't give me any pause. If the scope is moving while tightening, that tells me the rings need to be lapped. Every time I tighten down ring caps on great rings, the scope doesn't move. Often when tightening rings caps on not great rings the scope moves. If the scope moves on great rings then you just have to have tons of patience, and ease things along.

I look at tightening ring screws like head bolts on an engine (I know you know all about that). There's a sequence, and you go half torque in the pattern, then full torque in the pattern again.

Rear ring
L rear
R rear

Check level

Front ring
L rear
R rear (maintaining equal gap on each side between ring and ring cap)

Check level

Rear ring
L front
R front (maintain gap)

Front ring
L front
R front

Check level

If it's a six screw ring, half torque the middle screws last.

Repeat the process at full torque.

I would have requested the inside of the rings be left in cerekoted bc most of the time the inside of rings and a very tight tolerance. That Cerekote may have made the rings a little to tight and lapping may help I would think. I know Vortex told me if I have my Strike Eagle cerekoted do it either with the rings on or have the areas where the rings touch left as is so it doesn't effect the mounting.

Exactly how I do it. But I always have the scope twist just a little. Usually have to apply downward pressure on the scope. I don't know if my Bightforce rings are high quality, but they were high dollar, I lapped them anyways and it still twisted the scope

I tighten mine in a similar pattern, but I tighten them all just a turn or two at a time-might take several passes through the pattern before I get to the point of applying torque.