Sealant for cedar picnic table?

My wife has decided that "we" are building a new table for the backyard. I'd like to put some sort or waterproofing sealant on it. I know cedar doesn't rot quickly, but I'd like to keep it looking good as long as possible. Not planning to stain it, just a clear sealant.

Would you use Thompson water seal or some other brand?

My shop doors are cedar and we used Thompson, no complaints and still looks like it did a year ago when we sealed it.

Do several coats, at least two with a brush.. then use 400 grit sand paper before applying the last light coat with a rag. Gives it a really smooth finish..

Just did this to an old pine picnic table and turned out nice.. did a cedar patio table about 3 years ago under the covered patio and can tell the legs are starting to wear a bit from the sun, rain, , and some snow..

Thompsons or spars varnish. Either will need to be reapplied every 2 to 3 years.

Spar varnish, I prefer Helmsman brand. For the first coat mix 50/50 with mineral spirits to thin it, it will soak in better. Let dry for 2 days, apply another coat all spar varnish, no MS. Plan on redoing it every few years.

I have been thinking about this, since it will sit outside, I think I might change my formula. I think I would add boiled linseed oil, aka BLO to the mix. This is a sort of homemade version of teak oil. A mixture of 1/3 of each, BLO, mineral spirits and spar varnish. If the wood is real dry it will soak up a lot of the mix. Slop it on heavy, let it soak in. After it won't soak in anymore wipe it off. Then let it dry 24 hours and add another coat. You can stop when you think you have enough coats. But let them dry at least 24 hours between coats.

Unless you put on a lot of coats of finish, with this combination, it will be easier to refresh the finish in a couple of years.

The BLO rags are susceptible to self combustion, so dispose of them properly.

Why not polyurethane?

^^ This; Thompson WaterSeal is goooood stuff;
did a picnic table 7 years ago and still looks great (recoated 3 years ago, NO sanding, just sloped a 'refresher' coat on because can was still half full and sitting around...).


DO NOT put any kind of 'hard' coating on , like varnish or poly; wood 'flexes' (especially seating section, and anything sitting out in the weather year round) and hard coats will just crack and peel before 3 years is up, requiring a PAINFULL FULL removal (of all previous coating) to re-do....

real cedar wood will last 40 years (bare) on its own - Thompsons will just help preserve color and reduce stain adsorption . . . and will NEVER crack and peel . . .

flood cwf (clear wood finish) oil base, they make both a water and an oil based.

get the clear, stir it very well then apply, I used this on redwood decks in colorado and it lasted 5 yrs or more.

best thing on the market for wood preservation imo.

Benjamin Moore 440 or Epifanes.

boiled linseed oil in a pump up sprayer every 6 months will keep it fresh. It is also a safe product to use around food.

where do you find linseed oil? We have a nice cedar porch swing but I haven't been able to find linseed oil ... I tried teak oil but it left a gummy mess

Walmart in the paint section.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Strip-B...13=&veh=sem

Well here's the table and one of the benches both are pre sanding and sealing. Don't look too close.... you might see I don't have much of a future as a furniture maker.

Looks good. Is that an Ana White pattern?

It is. Thanks to Pintrest and my wife.