Materials for a blind

Okay, so Home Depot is the place I will be getting materials from.

I was curious, what to use for the sides. The frame has to be wood because I don't weld :P

I found this great kit at Home Depot for using 4x4's:

4x4 Compound Elevators

Those should really stabilize them and such. I figured, why not..right?

But.. the next part: They have 4x8 sheets of 1/4" OSB with camo 'tape' on the side.. or wallpaper type stuff. I am not a big fan of OSB on a deer stand OR of the tape as it can peel off, but it is cheaper than their cheapest plywood at only $13 a sheet.

So.. what do YOU use for the sides?

I wanted to make a 4x8 stand and raise it at least 4 ft, if not 8.

Thanks!

Russ

Exterior playwood primed and painted if you want it to last. Ripping 2x4's in half to built the frame and using small brad nails to attach everything with wood is a highly effective strategy for a long term blind.

Will 1/4 inch be sufficient? Just curious as I was thinking the weight of the heavier pieces might be a bit much for a 4x8 blind.

Thanks for the info!

The exterior 11/32 is only like $6 per board more, so not that big a deal, compared to the cheapest $17 per board they have.

Russ

If I am going to build a 4x8 blind, I would use 4x4 and nothing wrong with using OSB so long as you prime and paint both side and caulk the edges very well. If you were closer to San Antonio, I would help with the build. I've built a 4x4 blind using the Home Depot Camo OSB board.

I use HardiBoard, it's heavy and tough to work with, but it will last a looong time.

i used 3/8 inch sheeting. i sealed the ends as suggested above and used 3 coats of good paint on it. it is 7 foot off the ground. call Home Depot and have them pull up the weight of the sheets of plywood that you are interested in. you will be surprised how heavier OSB is. i built the four walls and roof sections separately and my brother-in-law pulled them up on the platform and screwed them together and sealed the corners.

On the last wooden blind I built I used quarter on the outside and that was put out in the weather in 2001. I painted it probably 4 or more times since then, caulked it when it needed, but its about had it. If you are looking for a long term deal, I would spring for the slightly extra money and go to a thicker wood on the outside.

Meant to say 4x4 post.

The last two blinds I have built I have skined in steel, insulated, and on one carpeted. I do not like to, and don't paint as ofen as I should and end up having to rebuild every 4-6 years. I have had to be "frugal" most of my life and do not like re-paying more stupid tax than I have to. My blinds are 5 X 5' Metal and don't leak. Yes they cost a little bit more to build but it is a one time expense. The Point HAVE FUN and let you imagination go wild.

I used the Camo OSB from HD when I built my blind John.

Is there a blind there?!?!

Well, I wish I could use metal.. but I donot weld.. so.. have to stick to wood.

Thanks for the help guys!

Russ

You could get a guy on here to weld up a frame for you that would be light enough to load and haul to the lease and finish it there using siding of choice and drill point screws.

That would be awesome, will have to keep that in mind if I could find someone close by.

R

I'm sure that somebody here can help you find a good welder/fabricator in Austin.

Guys?

John you miss unter stand me. I framed the blind in 2X2's then I screwed the metal. The edges were cut yo with with a carberundum blade on a circular saw. I overlapped the edges using drip edge. I am attaching a photo. This was my first so of course the second one was "GOODER". Yes that is a dish, not it does not work but the pole on the right side does go to rabbit ears. I know too much time on my hands.

OH! Wow.. good idea.. that might be better than the OSB by far.. heck yea. I will look into that because the metal is not that much more.

Thanks for the idea!

Russ

Make it 5x8 !! You will not regret it !!

Well..if I use metal siding.. that would not be hard to do.

Thanks for the suggestions:)

R

The biggest cost will be the 3/4" flooring (don't skimp). Once you get something bigger than 4X4' you'll never go back. That blind has a shelf above the front window, 5" carpeted shel on three sides (made out of surplus 3/4" and a 2 corner shelves. I cannot tell you how pleasurable it is there is room for "stuff" and still room to move around. R panel will work that oue happens to be out of 5V.

Next blind i build I am going to try this.
Camo Siding

i will say this if possible take your time and most importantly think of most off the wall ideas them figure out how to make them happen. Imagination is a dangerous thing theres no telling where could lead if left unchecked.

To me... comfort and room and shelf space for all your 'stuff' would be the key aspects, so I am going to go with the 5x8 stand and see how it comes out.

Also goign to look at a metal siding as well. Is it loud compared to wood sides?

Lighter?

Was thinking if I go with a base that is large enough to allow a small "porch" to step into the stand on (i.e. base of 8x8) and then the stand a 5x8... my biggest worries would be how best to tie it down so the wind does not blow it over AND.. how tall to make it.

The easiest height would be 8ft tall, no need to cut the 4x4 posts.

Also.. I like the 4x4 "compoud elevators" that I listed in the first post, but are 4x4 posts enough, vs 4x6 or 6x6?

Then.. my ranch is all rock.. so... I guess set the stand over a really large cedar and around others, cut them down to like 6ft tall and anchor the stand to all of them.

Thanks for all the input guys... really do appreciate it.

Russ

i used the elevator system on my 7 foot stand with 4x4's. home depot carries 6 and 7 foot 4'x4's if you don't want to go 8'. the base on top is 6'x6' and the elevator system brings the legs out to over 8'. the box stand on top is 6'x8' with a foot hanging over each end with a solid "false" floor.



you have a good ideal with the tree. here is a recent thread if you haven't read it. http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/u...own#Post3692951



with the metal, you don't need as many wood stud/supports to screw it to. you can glue foam insulation or carpet to inside to reduce noise. 5x8 is a good size i have found with my 6x8 that can put a small cot in one end for over night hog hunts. if you go with R panels or even wavy metal sheeting then both come out to 6 feet with two (R panels) or 3 wavy panels. just a thought.

Excellent input.

I figured to use leftover 2x6 treated lumber for the floor. We have a lot of it and it would be like decking. I would not need to use 3/4 OSB on the floor then, just make the base as a platform and build the stand on top of that. The carpet and padding would cover and gaps in the 2x6 flooring.

Since the base would be 8x8 anyway (nothing to cut much then).. I could very easily make the stand itself larger, if needed. I want to go for comfort and the ability to hunt well into the night for hogs.

Going to the ranch this weekend to work on the cabin and get a good nventory of what wood I already have available.

R

If you don't need it soon, you might be able to find a school that still does welding and have them do it as a class project. Don't know if many of them are still around.

We used OSB for the sides of ours back in the day, but went all out and added caulk to the sides and painted them every few years. The blinds were in great shape and lasted until we let the property go this year. I think about 6-7 years. The general rule of thumb we followed was to spend the extra money for the better wood and supplies and it'll save you money in the long term.

I am going to the ranch this weekend to see what all I already have. Now, I might already have enough hardi-plank left over and could use that, or I could return it to HomeDepot and buy double the materials.. heh

That OSB with the realtree camo sure does look nice.

I also have a ton of 2x6x16's and 2x4's and 2x8s left over, so am going to inventory all that and bring home what I need.

If it all works out, I should only need to buy a few joist hangers and the roofing tin...not that much.

I'll update ya and get pictures as we build it

R

How I did mine 12 yrs ago 5x8, 4x6 legs 12ft high to a base made of 2x6's braced well, decked with 2x6 topped with 3/4 marine plywood. Hardie plank siding on 2x4 frame with an insulated sheet metal roof with a 16 inch overhang on all sides. Sealed with foam and caulk. All wood painted. I got the crank windows and a door from an old r/v. After repairing stands blown over, this time set 2, 5ft pcs drilling pipe at the SW & NE corners 4ft deep in concrete. A tractor with a front end loader and a pto digger make it a lot easier. Stand is still in great shape, always dry with no bugs and has never budged. I did repaint it 4 years ago. If you are on a lease long term you will not regret it.

There are many kinds of blinds materials. But for windows blinds there is use of fabric, wood, plastic or metal types of materials. Most strongest among these are metal blinds that have a long life and maturity.

Ok.. so.. here is what I am planning to do.. easiest and least expensive.

I have $400 in home depot gift cards. lol. so time to use it:

Going to use 8 6x6 posts 12 ft long
Going to use the camo OSB and make sure to use drip edging and lots of calk
I have like 60 2x6x8s and not all are pressure treated, so I am going to paint them to protect them
Going to use treated 2x8x8's for the 8x8 base and then place 2x6x8's every 12" for joists.

Instead of a OSB floor, I am going to use those 2x6x8's I have

Gotta use all that extra wood.. heh

The roof will be regular galvanized metal roofing

I have extra insulation, so going to insulate the inside and then put thin paneling in to cover that.

Probably go with plexiglass and hinges for the windows, we have extra of that as well.

I am going to make the door open inwards instead of outwards, to make it safer getting into the blind.

Each corner of the base will have a large eye hook for cables to secure it downwards and outwards so that it will be safe from high winds.

I'll start on it the end of the month and post pictures.

Anyone ever used 16ft 6x6 posts?

Curious if it is even worth doing that.

Funny how these things grow before you buy the parts.. lol

I think I will stick with 12ft.. heh

R

are you building a 16 or 12 platform and then building a box on top?

6x6 posts? if going 16 foot then OK but you can get away with 4x4 at 12 foot with cross bracing.

Ok.. I am being told by a RL friend, if I am goign to make this secure, I need to sink the posts into the ground.

Here is the issue, I see:

1 - If I use 4x4 posts and I want to make this 16ft tall and I am using 8 legs, not four. I can angle the corner legs outwards and that should give more stability, but I will need to "trim" the middle legs as they will be too long.

2 - If I use 6x6 posts, angling them out will not be near as easy to do and they do not make those steel "elevators" that fit a 6x6 post... so.. all the legs would be straight down (still 8 legs not 4).

Would sinking them in the ground be required?

I also would have cables on each corner extending 60-80 feet outwards and anchored to the ground as well.

8x8 platform with a 6x8 blind on top of it


Russ

if i went straight down with the legs (6x6s) then i would sink them but the legs will be more sensitive to rot.

using the 4x4s and the elevator system the legs on the four corners would be angled out. with a 8 foot platform then the legs will be almost 12 foot apart at the bottom.
i would recommend a add piers or large/wide concrete blocks under the legs to keep the stand from sinking.

you could run diagonial braces from the legs to the middle of the plaform for support instead of extra legs.

Well, you guys know this stuff better than me. I tend to over-engineer stuff.. but I sure do hate 4x4's when it comes to holding weight...heh

Let me get it built and then I will look at how it rests and moves. I might be making it too complicated.

I think I will go with the 6x6 posts, cross beams on each side, and long tie-downs from each corner, and if I need to sink it, I can always wrap the legs to protect them.

R

if your going through this much trouble stay away from the osb