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Another question

Posted By: BassCat'99

Another question - 08/04/17 03:21 PM

Good morning, its me again with another question. This is more of a procedure question. I've been practicing with my Annealeez and feel I'm ready to produce some ammo. By the step 1.decap, 2.anneal, 3.clean, 4.size, now this is where I have the question. What about cleaning sizing lube from the case and proceed to priming and balance of reloading. I'm using Dillon's spray lube and have found the point between too much and not enough. confused2
Posted By: ChadTRG42

Re: Another question - 08/04/17 03:48 PM

1- decap (if you decap before cleaning)
2- clean
3-anneal
4-size (check brass for length and defects)
5-clean again
6-prime (inspect the flash hole for any media in flash hole)
7-load

On #5, I throw my brass back into the tumbler for about 30 minutes to clean off the lube. You can wipe down the cases with a clean towel, and this will work also. How you clean the lube off is up to you.

I didn't care for the Dillon lube. I use Hornady One Shot. But yes, each lube has their own sweet spot on how much (or how little) to use.
Posted By: RiverRider

Re: Another question - 08/04/17 04:02 PM

I've always disliked dealing with case lube, but what ya gonna do? I usually put fired cases is a fabric bag of some kind (like an old pillow case) and pour some alcohol on it and then massage the whole works to get the brass clean enough to run through the sizing die. After resizing I give the brass my preferred cleaning treatment (stainless media) to get the lube off and make it all purty.

But, if I'm neck sizing only, I don't have to deal with lube because I use collet dies. I like that lots better and I think collet dies make the straightest necks you can get.
Posted By: TackDriver

Re: Another question - 08/04/17 04:30 PM

Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42

On #5, I throw my brass back into the tumbler for about 30 minutes to clean off the lube. You can wipe down the cases with a clean towel, and this will work also. How you clean the lube off is up to you.


Chad, I hear you use a vibratory tumbler with walnut like mine, how do you keep the dust to a minimum? Also do you clean the dust out from inside the necks as well? It's a pita doing that after tumbling compared to the SS media.

I wipe dust off the outsides of the cases after tumbling then used the drill with a very fine steel wool wrapped around an old bronze brush and a quick in and out to clean necks. Then used compressed air from the air compressor to blow the dust out from the inside of cases.

Like Chad said in order is correct.
I just use a little quick squirt of Horndady One shot lube to lube necks a little, ( once cases are full in the loading block, its hard for lube spray to get down to the bottom of the cases so ) I put a drop or two of CLP on the foam pad and spread it out good, a little roll on the foam with the case or touch the pad with your finger and spread a thin film from the shoulder down to the case head and size. Wipe off lube after the sizing is done with a rag then clean out primer pockets, the rest is what Chad said.

Posted By: ChadTRG42

Re: Another question - 08/04/17 04:44 PM

Originally Posted By: TackDriver
Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42

On #5, I throw my brass back into the tumbler for about 30 minutes to clean off the lube. You can wipe down the cases with a clean towel, and this will work also. How you clean the lube off is up to you.


Chad, I hear you use a vibratory tumbler with walnut like mine, how do you keep the dust to a minimum? Also do you clean the dust out from inside the necks as well? It's a pita doing that after tumbling compared to the SS media.


On new media, I'll treat it with Graf's brass polish. The Graf's brass polish is the best polish I have found for the money. I'll tumble brass the first time with a good amount of brass polish and add some water to the media (about a couple table spoons). This moisture cuts down on the dust and the polish helps also. Each time I tumble brass, I'll add a little brass polish to the media. My current batch of media has about 50/50 of walnut and corn cob. I guess it's the best of both worlds. But I only had one and was already using the other, so I just combines the 2 together. It works fine.

The list I made is a very basic order. Each step you can add on different methods and techniques to whatever it is you are trying to accomplish with your ammo. I keep my ammo simple, as I HATE case prep. If it increases the time of case prep, I frown on it.
Posted By: Smokey Bear

Re: Another question - 08/04/17 05:56 PM

Well let's see. If it a brass rotation that I am annealing:
1-de prime with a universal de capping die.(mine is a Lee)
2-anneal
3-run through tumbler with corn cob media and Lyman media conditioner.
4-size. Even though the brass has been de-primed, leave the de capping pin in the die. That will usually take care of any media in the flash hole.
5-trim as needed.
6-chamfer and de-burr
7-clean the primer pocket. Usually the appropriate brush is all it takes.
8-make about two swipes with a brush inside the neck.

Ready to load.
If it's not a cycle to anneal, skip #2. Everything else stays the same.
Posted By: Judd

Re: Another question - 08/04/17 11:12 PM

No reason to decap prior to annealing.

Clean
Anneal
Size
Posted By: J.G.

Re: Another question - 08/04/17 11:24 PM

Originally Posted By: Judd
No reason to decap prior to annealing.

Clean
Anneal
Size


This.

Add trim as a last step.
Posted By: Smokey Bear

Re: Another question - 08/05/17 09:34 PM

Originally Posted By: Judd
No reason to decap prior to annealing.

Clean
Anneal
Size


It will work either way. Decapping prior to cleaning knocks a good bit of the carbon out of the primer pocket. In turn I like the way the primer pocket cleans up easier when I decap first. Primer pocket in or out has no impact on the annealing process. The other thing I personally like about having the primer pocket out is if you quench in water, it seems to all come out easier with both ends of the case open. It's a minor detail. Do what works best for you.
Posted By: Buzzsaw

Re: Another question - 08/05/17 10:51 PM

ya'll make me want to quit reloading
Posted By: Judd

Re: Another question - 08/05/17 11:00 PM

No reason to quench either.

That carbon will get knocked out when you resize and one of the best features of the co-ax is it keeps all that mess contained in the primer tube and not slung all over the press.
Posted By: Smokey Bear

Re: Another question - 08/06/17 01:30 AM

Everyone that has that co-ax seems to like it.....as far as my system. I've been loading since 1974. I have tried it about every way there is and that's what works for me. You probably did the same. There's usually more than one way to skin a cat....
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