Berger 130 Hybrid 6.5 Creed Tikka

I finally got around to playing with the Berger 130 Hybrids and was happy with the results. Although they had a narrower window of H4350 charge they liked vs 140 ELDM or Amax, I did get some good results at the higher end of charges.

I also got a chance to try out the LabRadar and it is SLICK! I did experience a few errors in reading (likely due to a metal pipe obstruction in front of the unit... hint hint JG ) but was impressed with accuracy and all the data it collected.

An interesting note that velocities leveled off around 2850 at 43.4, 43.7 and 44.0. I believe the 44.0 was actually a bit higher but this was one of the cases where I had a few errors to read and the data is a bit suspect.

All loads were .015 off the lands. Based on the pic below, I think I am going to try new groups at 43.9, 44.0 and 44.1 and will also try seating depths of .020, .015, .010 and .005. Thoughts on this from the reloader braintrust? Anyone else tried the 130 Hybrids?

Two factors; seating depth, and powder charge is going to be lots of shooting.

3 charges X 3 seating depths X 5 round groups.

=45

I think I'd just roll with 44.0 gr. play with seating depth, and call it good. That Dang Judd has shown me how much of a difference seating depth can make.

Jason is right. Load up the 44gr load and call it good. Take it out and enjoy it! How many rounds on that barrel? Is it fairly new? I'm getting 2922 with 43.3 in a 26" bbl with 0 signs of pressure.

Hard to argue with the 44 charge. Before you go to seating depth, I'd try different primers and potentially neck bushings. I'm not a huge fan of double digit SD numbers.

I was thinking about trying different neck bushings as there is very little tension when seating these bullets. How tight (relative terms, I know) are we looking for Judd? Would you recommend going down just one insert size (.001) or two? Also keep in mind that some of the readings were missed and/or skewed by this giant metal pipe right in front of the bench and LabRadar (another hint JG ) so not 100% confident in the readings.

I'm using Fed 210M primers, what else would you suggest I try?

Jeff, I've got just north of 250 rounds down the pipe. It is only 21" so not going to be able to get 2900+ as it appears. I'm not a competitive shooter so playing with all the variables is part of the fun for me.

Didn't know it was only a 21. That's good for that length. My 130 load also has an SD of 8-10.5. Seating depth can also play a part in your #s too. I run a .288 bushing which yields around 2 thous neck tension. It might be a challenge to get your load sub 5-6 sd running hornady brass. My Nosler brass load with 140 hybrids will produce low single digit #s but hornady brass at its price point is just fine with me.

Fitz wonder if you took that same load/same brass batch and turned necks just to clean up the high spots/deburr flash holes and weight sort how much your #s would drop??

Never tried turning necks. This group of brass was on its 3rd load, beyond pushing primers out and cleaning primer pocket, what else can be done to deburr?

Is Nosler brass that much better than Hornady?

There is a deburr tool made by K&M that uses an insert inside the neck to help the tool align at the flash hole. They also make a neck turning tool that looks solid. If you measure your neck thickness you'll notice maybe 1-2 thou difference.
After they're cleaned up you're overall neck tension should be more consistent from piece to piece. The nosler brass is super consistent but they trash primer pockets faster than my Hornady brass....go figure. These aren't really reloading tools or practices that I use just suggestions based off research.

It's more consistent weight wise but not necessarily better from my experience.

I'd try cci large magnum and BR primers.

It'd do that before I turned necks...that is a time burner and pia. I believe if I was going to burn a lot of time prepping brass I'd get Lapua 308 Palma brass and work it down. It's even better brass than Nosler and cheaper. Plus, you get the small primer pocket.

Measure a loaded case neck and then one after you've sized it...you want .001 or .002 difference.

Edit after reading Jeff's post...you can look inside the case and see if the flash holes need deburred. Win brass is the worst for that. I find a flash hole reamer to be much more valuable than a debur tool to sd numbers. K&M makes great neck turner, it's what I use.

Fitz there's also a guy selling Lapua 308 brass that he's necked down and converted to 6.5 creedmoor brass. I believe he's asking $1.80 a piece? Could be a good option other than buying the tools and trying to polish a turd ( hornady brass ) I'm somewhat tempted myself to buy 50 pieces to try.

http://www.scout.com/military/snipers-hi...ing-no-c-c-fees

Thanks Judd and Jeff. I will definitely try the CCI primers. That processed 308 Lapua brass looks interesting and may be the way to go.

Just curious, what equipment is needed to form Lapaua 308 brass to 6.5 Creed?

Thats interesting. I wonder if Lapua will ever start making 6.5 brass considering to they are already doing 260. I wonder if its easier/better to reform 260 brass instead of 308?

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/making-6-5-creedmoor-brass.3860951/

If I'm turning necks this is the only brass I'd spend the time on.

You can usually find 308 stock 10-20 dollars cheaper than 260 stock.