Glass bedding

Anybody used the kit from midway? The reviews are great. I was planning to buy a new stock soon, but I decided to replace my scope first. My nikon isn't holding a zero, and it's not under warranty. I was going to buy a new scope soon anyways, but now it's cutting into my stock budget, so I'm just going to do the best I can with the factory stock. Anyways, this is the kit. Seemed like the best way to go, especially for the money, but its the first time I've bedded an action, so I wasn't sure if there's a better option.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/790049/...ack-to-top-link

Do yourself a favor, dig up an old credit card (or other thin piece of plastic) and cut pieces to fit your pressure points (you'll need to put holes in it for the screws). This will do a good job of floating the barrel....take it out and see how it does. If you need the cash for a scope you can do a fair job with the factory stock with no investment other than some sandpaper to hollow out the barrel channel.

The barrel is already free floated (synthetic stock, basically the entire barrel channel is hollow) which brings me to my second question. I'd like to fill that area with something to eliminate any stock flex. I've heard of guys using arrow shafts epoxied into place, then filling the barrel channel with something. I like DIY projects, but don't want to waste my time doing something that won't help, or even worse is counterproductive.

It looks like a nice kit, especially if you have not done the job before.

The price isn't bad at all, for what you get.

After looking at the stock some more, there's really not a lot of material to bed.

what kind of rifle is it.

Walter

On my Browning A Bolts I have cut the stock out to accept a steel rod (1/4") on each side and filled with an epoxy. As soon as I applied the epoxy I will drop in the action(covered with masking tape and wax) and screw it in place. I always hang a gallon of water off the sling stud to pull the stock away from the barrel. Let it set 24 hours, pull action and remove tape. Now you can shoot off bipod or bags and the wimpy plastic stock will not contact the barrel.

How many times has this gun been in and out of the stock? How many times was a torque wrench used?

I'd vote for a pillar bed kit, and a torque wrench.

Good call, here.

Savage 111 .270 (will eventually be a 6.5x284 possibly)
The rods just go in the barrel channel correct?



5-10 times that I know of. I bought it used. And I don't have a torque wrench. I'll pick one up. I know I need one anyways. But the stocks looks a little worse for wear because of bondo dust. It's not worn out like it looks in the picture.

In my experience... while not glamorous, factory synthetic stocks are not all that bad on bedding so long as they don't contact the barrel. I would look to other causes of any inaccuracy first. Load, base/rings, shooter error etc.

I know my scope has to go. It's not holding a zero. Took it out on Monday to try my hand at stretching out past the 100 yards I usually shoot. Set up a target at 100 just to confirm zero and get a couple shots down range. (I sighted the rifle in with about a 1" group early December. Havnt shot it since) and it was about 4" high and left, next shot was worse. 3rd ahot was right where the 2nd shot was. I though, that's strange, maybe my scope got knocked off zero. So I adjusted the scope to about the 4" in both directions it was off. Next 2 shots weren't even on the paper.

At that point I though, ok. Let's start over. I let my barrel cool while I plinked around with the .22, then pulled the target up to 50 yards. Not even on the paper. Shot a few rounds around the target trying to get One to land. Finally had one hit the target basically holding 1 foot right and 1 foot high. Realized at that point my scope was toast. It's a relativey new nikon prostaff 4-12x40 that was on the gun when I bought it used from a THF'er. So I'm going to replace that next month on my birthday. I'm running talley lightweights right now, wondering if I should replace those when I do the scope.

I have used this kit with good results on a Sporterized 1903 Springfield. Follow the included instructions and you should have no issues. Lay out all the steps ahead of time, once you add the hardener to the mix you have just a few minutes of working time before it starts to set. I was pleased with the product and the results, it brought the rifle back to life without having to restock it.
Good luck.

Savage stocks are not that hard to bed. The rear pillar must be ground down to clear the sear. Best bet, take the trigger group off, bed it, then grind the pill down to clear the sear. This ensures proper alignment. Also, make sure the tang is free floated, put 2 or 3 layers of tape under it while bedding.

Few articles that walk you through it:
Article 1
Article 2

I am also going to bed my Savage soon too, it helps a lot if you have an extra pair of hands. You can bed the barrel nut or not, thats up to you.

Check your rings and base before you toss the scope. I had a gun that was dead on for 10 years then suddenly couldn't group inside minute of man. Thought the scope was to blame. Went to start taking it apart and found one of the base screws had backed out a little. Went ahead and changed the base and rings to better ones and used loctite on the screws. Rifle holds zero again.

You very well may be right. But I want to uprgrading scopes anyways, and I'll do bases and rings when I do that. Then I'll try to move the nikon to my .22 with different rings and see if it'll hold zero.