As a weekend warrior/garage reloader that does not burn through hundreds of rounds a month is there any valid reason I should spend twice this amount on 1 of several options? This what I'm looking at https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/rcbs-partner-cast-iron-reloading-press#repChildCatid=3108981

I just loaded 200 rounds for my newly acquired precision rifle and want to upgrade. I don't mind spending 150 or so on 1 of the others but if this will load just as good of ammo, whats the point?

When all is said and done, how many rifle and pistol cartridges will you be loading for?

You can't go wrong with RCBS. Their customer service & support is legendary. At $76 to your door I can't see how you can go wrong. As a reloading press, it is capable of loading as accurate as any single-stage press. Buy it! JIMHO

Only 2 now, 6.8 and 7-08. I am not one to buy and sell with the wind change either. I save my 223 and 9mm but have yet to find it efficient to bother reloading those. So, 2, probably never more than 4. What are you getting at?

Why do you want "an upgrade?"

In other words, what are you looking to accomplish in a new press that your old one doesn't do?

For each rifle cartridge there are 2 dies. For each pistol cartridge there are 4 dies. The number of dies needed can add up quick. I agree, 9mm and .223 are the two cartridges that a guy cannot buy components and make "less expensive" ammo. But a guy can make better, tighter tolerance ammo, tuned to the gun. I have my .223 ARs running on a hand load. Not to save money, but to produce the best consistency the rifle can.

So lets say you decide to load 7mm-08 A.I., 6.8 SPC, .223, and 9mm. That comes out to 10 dies. When I used a typical single stage press I made Sharpie marker timing marks on the body of the press (where the die screws in) timing mark on the lock ring, timing mark on the threads of the die (prior to going to Hornady lock rings that do not move). So each time I screwed a die into the press, I knew I tightened it down to the same place as the last time. Dealing in thousandths of an inch a little more, or less rotation changes things.

Then I found myself loading for so many cartridges that things were less than handy. I purchased a Forster Co-Ax. It is significantly more money than the venerable RCBS Rockchucker. But it was an almost life altering purchase. Dies slide into a slot, instead of screwing in, allowing for front to back alignment. The universal shell holder allows for left to right alignment, thereby making for very "straight ammo". The biggest benefit was the ease of changing dies. Another extremely cool feature is the primer catcher.

You're not wrong in buying this $75 press, or stepping up to a Rockchucker. I just wanted to make you aware of, in my opinion, the last press you would ever purchase, because there is no upgrade from the Co-Ax as far as I know.

Co ax is nice....

But I am a bit confused. You have a press now? Which one?

I got a rcbs press for the low price of free... it�s older than me but still works. Upgrading my press to the coax would be nice but for the money there is always something else that will help me more. Eventually I will find a coax...

My point is what are your goals? Is your press making good ammo? If it is, are there other areas of reloading that would be better suited for upgrade. Ie case trimming, powder measure, etc

Seating depth is not as consistent as I want with the old one. I want more better precision.

Not to defame you but it sounds like you have a ways to go before you can shoot better than the rockchunker can load. I load on a rockchunker and I can shoot. My buddy went to a coax and likes it but he was already a shooter. He�s no better now.

How much variation in seating depth are you getting? How are you measuring it?

Generally around 3 thousands but some were as much as 7. Sinclair hex nut.

What is better about the chucker supreme than the Partner? It cost twice as much but I don't think it will produce twice as good of ammo. If it will produce better ammo at all, I'll get one, but I'd like to know that it will.

I may leave it up to some of the reloading experts, but I am not sure a press would solve this problem...if you want a new press have it, but i would step up to the coax if I did for fj reasons.

I would look at my die and make sure it�s tightened down, I would look at my lock ring and play between shell holder and press. Also are you doing a full cam over?

If your complaint is inconsistent seating depth and IF your current press is to blame, you'll probably get better results with a press having a heavier frame to reduce flexing. The problem is that there are several things that could be causing inconsistent seating depth. It might even be the way you're using your calipers or the calipers themselves.

If you're bent on replacing your press, though, and you think you really want the best you can get then Co-Ax is the answer.

How are you measuring seating depth?

not while seating

Then how do you know when to stop?

Which one of these do you have? They�re both called breechlock. If it�s the one on top I�d say it�s not your problem. If the the one on bottom it could very well be an issue. As long as it�s a full circle and not a �C� type press there should be no flex in seating dept. although they make much nicer presses the breechlock challenger on top will make precision ammo or I�m just one lucky bastard.

^^ This. You have to cam over during the seating process.

That very well be my problem then. I have always followed the manufacturers instructions that came with the die, it states nothing of cam over.

Maybe some folks have a different definition of cam over but I can say I have never heard that term used to describe the seating process. I believe one die manufacturer said leave your die about the thickness of a nickel above the shell holder unless you are crimping your brass. That would make it impossible to get a cam over?

The body of the seating die is largely irrelevant. I can see that at varying heights. If I recall it�s generally says do bottom it out then half turn back or so. Then use the seating stem to control the height. If you don�t cam over you will never repeatability get to the same oal

My understanding, as well.

All of my seating dies have a slight gap between die, and shell holder. But, the handle always goes to full length of its' stroke. Back when I started, I made the mistake of having the die screwed too far in, so much that the handle did not have the ability to make the ram make a full stroke. I set the dies up to use as much of the die as possible, but not rolling a crimp, for the ones that do, and the handle making a full stroke.

Agreed.