I have recently bought some old guns that have rust , to variuos degrees on their barrels....from light spots to almost pitted, to heavy corroded when one slug barrel was left in a wet closet rug or something for an extended time.

Also, what is best lubricant to use to prevent rust on the steel and what to use on the wood ?

I have picked up at guns shows some stuff... but as yet nothing working very well...

If this is an old topic , then point me to the thread that can help.

I would like to avoid blueing since the value of the gun may go down more than with a little rust.

Any input would be appreciated.

There are a bunch of good products for keeping a gun barrel lubricated properly, you will get a bunch of responses - oil to wax most work pretty well if applied after every time the gun is handled and periodically (every 6 months) when stored. The key is to get the rust off that you have now. If you don't get it off, the prevention products don't work too well. Get this:

http://www.flitz.com/p-31-flitz-polish-liquid.aspx

Make certain all the rust is gone, the apply preventative oil or wax. Don't go to crazy w/ the flitz - you can rub the bluing off....

HTH

David

One of the best things I've found, after an old man told me to try, was a #2 pencil and gun/mineral oil. This is a slow process but it's not nearly as abrasive as other techniques. I tend to be paranoid about over scratching the surface. Pencil lead (graphite) has a lower hardness than any steel. So techincally you will never take off any steel once you've removed all the rust. The oil is more of a medium.

Just use a regular pencil, the old kind you have to sharpen, dip the tip in oil and rub the rust. Wipe and repeat until it's all gone.

Once again, not a every efficient method for large spots, but very safe.

Like the pencil method and to stop rust adn keep it from starting I have cound nother that beats Corosion-X. If you have ever used cold blue to touchup some blueing wear you know it is an invitation for rust. Bought a Marlin 1894 that had been cold blued for boue ewar at end of barrel, rust in it whne took from safe a couple weeks later, used teh pencil methoid, touched up the blueing and applied corosion=X, that was at least 5 years ago, no rust problems since.

So where can you buy this corrison-X......and do you use it AFTER you get the rust off.. or does it help get it off with the pencil method??

Sure appreciate all comments and ideas... sure many others have this rust problem.

It is a penetrating oil and can use with Pencil, it out penetrates anything I have used, even for rusty bolts. I have bought mine at Ray's Hardwar and couple other gun stores around Dallas area. Or can get it online http://corrosionxproducts.com/
I also wipe my guns down before season with it before season and have ot had to worry about rust during season even if got wet, wipe them off and go on.

I found this web sight on 6mmbr.com that tested various oils , from remington, to corrosionx, , etc... the link is below.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

It seems like good tests, and it showed that Corrosionx came in barely 2nd place behind "Eezox"....

The following is the beginning of this article from the web site.....

Corrosion Protection Products
How to Keep Your Rifle Rust-Free in Storage

6mmBR.com SPONSORS


How do you ensure your nice rifle won't pick up rust or pits during long-term storage? They say "rust never sleeps" but if you follow our advice, you can enjoy peace of mind when put your guns away for the season. First, coat your rifles with a proven corrosion-inhibitor, second use a good storage bag, and third keep moisture out of your safe with a warming device and dessicants. Do NOT store guns in foam hardcases. The foam attracts and retains moisture. If you must use a foam case, wrap the gun first in plastic or use Brownells' thin Vapor Lock bags. These have a 0% moisture transmission rating.

Through the efforts of Andy from South Carolina, we've tested some of the best anti-corrosion products on the market, together with some old standards like RemOil. The results may surprise you.

Bottom Line--Eezox and Corrosion-X Are Superior
Use Eezox or Corrosion-X to coat your firearms. Eezox has the advantage that it goes on wet, but protects dry. Corrosion-X works nearly as well, is easy to apply, and is widely available. BreakFree works very well but starts to fade after repeated extreme exposure. However, we still like BreakFree because it penetrates into recesses better than almost anything else, and it is a very effective lubricant, not just a rust preventitive. You can also use thicker coverings like Rig Grease, Military Cosmoline, or even Petroleum Jelly, but these are messy to apply and a pain to remove.

Have never tried Eezox, might have to try t when my supply of CorrosionX runs out, which will be a while.

Get it blasted and cerakoted. Worry free after that.

Flitz is great stuff, but as noted, it is abrasive and will remove the finish if pushed

the tried and true rust removal method is light oil and 0000 steel wheel. Rub lightly with plenty of oil, and it works very well.
Most any chemical process will remove blue as well, since that's what blue is - rust.
But if the part is too far gone to save the bluing, get some Evaporust. It will remove every trace of the rust, but it will most likely remove the blue. However, I have found that if you soak the part in it for the minimum time to "just" remove the rust, it doesn't always take the blue around it. Further, if the part has a high carbon content, you can let it soak for several days and the chemical imparts a dark blue/black coloring of it's own. I don't know how durable that is.

No scratch scotch brite works real well with a little rem oil