After a lil questioning I find the cost to be quite high and the wait time to be quite a while to have a rifle rebarreled. I ask why? How hard would it be to do your self? what would the cost be? why so high why so long?

What rifle? Some are easier than others.

I've also got some sticker-shock after looking at prices on a number of aftermarket upgrades. Don't know who would pay most of those prices, but obviously there's a market at that level or they'd be out of business. Just not a market for poor folks like me.

Some things vary depending on what is being done. Some long waits are for barrels to come in others are just the fact that there is a waiting line. I just dropped one off and the smith already had a barrel but it needs to be turned to my contour and the action trued. He said about 4 weeks it will be done just due to waiting list.

I am hearing 6 months plus if you have barrel. I am talking about a rem 700 or a clone of a rem 700. Just want to chamber a new barrel and screw it on.

Gunsmiths are notoriously slow. And good gunsmiths have a waiting list.

Doing it youself will depend on how much lathe operation experience you have and if you own a lathe, the proper tooling, and the proper instruments. These days smiths are getting barrels centered in the jaws within .00005".

6 months seems a bit long with a barrel unless you're waiting on a stock or other pieces. I would call around to other places.

That is one of the reasons I like Savage, minutes to do a barrel change. Barrels readily available starting around $200.

I didn't even know this was possible. Are you sure you didn't stick an extra 0 in there? That's wild!

We're having trouble at work getting parts built to +/- .0025 tolerances. And that's much looser than .00005"

You could always order a remage pre chambered barrel and do it yourself. A few tools and a head space gauge is all that is required.

From my experiences professional and as an avid shooter...The enviable truth is that you always have to pay, both in terms of cost and time, for precision and accuracy when it comes to maching services and gu smithing is no exception since for rifle it's primarily precison lathe works.

You can most certainly get it built cheaper and faster. But like I tell all the foreigners in my office, yes u can use the cheap and fast machine shop. But there is a reason why even the Chevron's and Shell's of the world still plan and wait for the good shops to be available.

Lot of times you will find smiths don't keep inventory because of the high carrying cost and it could take 3 months easy just to get the barrel blank. We keep blanks in stock, our lead-times are about 10-12 weeks and its is strictly a backorder issue. As far as cost it really depends on what you are wanting done. With ours we do blueprinting, bedding, trigger work, and cerakote/kg painting and hand lap and dual indicate the chamber. It all adds up. But we believe doing all that is important as I don't want a rifle out there with my name on it that does not shoot because someone wanted to cut corners on the action or the stock.

Look at the cost of a good barrel blank, the time and material in lapping it, then owning the reamer time chambering and threading, time truing the action and wear on the action and chamber reamer (not cheap tools), and overhead. Your in a barrel well over 500 before you screw it on without any recoup of time.

If you are doing it yourself and you own the machines anyway and write off your time as a fun project you will be cheaper as you are obviously not running a business out of it. But on the flip side you are not chambering hundreds of barrels a year ether.

the first re-barrel is always the most expensive as Derrick indicated, its the time when you have your action "fixed".... after that the cost goes down a bit... Just like reloading it is defiantly not cheaper when you drop 500 buck on a press dies powder primers bullets brass powder dispenser and load your first 500 rounds..... but then you save your brass and so on.

barrel is a fixed cost 275-350
chamber job 275-350
some kind of finish 75-150
tread end for suppressor/brake 75-150.... "it is what it is".. is what i told my father when he asked the same question

that's why 308 is your friend, you can pretty much count on ~8K rounds before even thinking about a new barrel.... and hey ain't any cheaper playing golf.....

Pretty sure I was accurate on the zeros. If I wasn't I think Derrick would have corrected me.

I watched my smith get my first barrel centered to .000" Then he got rid of that dial indicator and placed another one on the barrel. I said "is that one ten thousandths?" He said add a zero to that. Then showed me one tic on the dial was five one hundred thousandths. If memory serves

So your saying 5/100000 of an inch? I bet the barrel isn't that straight or true.

I bet I dont dial one in to .00005. I think I will do one just so we can see if we get what we pay for. It may shoot behind me!!!

I believe you. I'm just very impressed.

I don't want to derail anything I did not look at the "0" someone else my indicate to that but we indact both ends to the .0005 so thats 1/2 thou a human hair is typically 3 thou .003

No the outside of the barrel isnt remotely close to that. It doesn't work that way. Put a boring bar in the bore and indicate from the bar hanging out.

Just text him. He told me wrong several years ago. (beer was involved)

Five ten thousandths. .0005"

Yup. Buy a used Savage, action wrench and bolt nut wrench, go/no go gauge, and all it takes if 5 minutes to change out the barrel. Sell off the old barrel for 100 bucks or so and that usually covers the money for the tools and gauges, couldn't be easier.

I bet the inside of the barrel is not as true as the outside?? any takers

[/quote] I bet the inside of the barrel is not as true as the outside?? any takers[/quote]


The inside is way more crutial than the outside, you do not want to indicate off the outside by no means in my opinion, the bullets not riding on the outside of the barrel. The OD is never ever concentric with the bore, concentricity is the key. We run indicators on both ends inside the barrel and indicate off the lands and groves you would be surprised how true you can get it to run. Got to take your time and do it right so you are not flexing the barrel but you can get a dang true run out, but you may spend 5 min or 25 min getting it indicated correctly.

[/quote] I bet the inside of the barrel is not as true as the outside?? any takers [/quote]

I bet the inside of the barrel is not as true as the outside?? any takers [/quote][/quote]

How much we betting.

I'd like to have a newer tractor.

i think i want in on that bet as well.......

oh wow me too tractors are fun
Question why do we index barrels?
how does that hole get in that barrel anyway?