I heard how difficult this was, the filter that is. Saw a few Youtube videos and they all had a few different ways of going at it. I raise the bed, sit on the left rear tire, with my left arm reach in, get a hold, spin, boom. It's off. I've also done it this same way using an oil filter tool that fits on a small socket wrench when it was put on too tight by the dealer ship. $59.00 for a kit with 2.5 quarts of oil, filter and copper crush washer. Done with hauling it to a dealership, leaving it, going back, spending too much $. I also log it on the Polaris site under My Garage for warranty purposes. Transmission and front Xfer fluid is easier.

If you aren't doing this yourself and want to, I have the wrench, perfect funnel for the front diff fluid and transmission fluid as well. I think it's 2-3 different sizes of allen keys that are driven by a socket wrench in total. Air filter, oil/filter and the other fluids, like 45 minutes tops. I think this is a few hundred $'s in labor at a dealership.

I changed the oil by myself in my Ranger for the first time this past fall. I had a hell of a time accessing that filter, even wit the the filter wrench I had. Went to town and got a different wrench and was able to get it. I also stripped that little 6mm Allen oil drain plug. It's pretty sensitive. So I had to use a bolt extractor to remove it and ordered another drain plug. So, the first time doing it was kind of a PITA, but now I am set to do it going forward for a fraction of the cost.

I bought the Polaris ATV Full Synthetic Oil Change Kit on Amazon for $55.

I don't know how you went about it, but seated on the rear tire, it's an easy reach to the filter. I don't even have to bend the heat shield. I installed hand tight, so it will prolly be hand tight coming off. But even with the wrench coming from the angle I do, it's easy. I'd do it for anyone for practice. I've done three now, mine twice and my friends once. It's getting easier.

It’s a shame a filter 2.5 quarts of oil and a crush washer cost $59. It’s a bigger shame that crush washers go on anything.

It is, and it's even more to walk into a dealership and buy it, then pay them to complete the job.

I drive mine everyday on my ranch and change the oil once a year. I buy the Polaris oil online and change it without much issue. It doesn’t seem too expansive to me. That’s really good oil and a high rpm motor.

What year model you have?

I have a Ranger 570 midsize and the oil and filter is easy to change.

2021 XP1000.

Same. Great machine, really happy with mine. You still on original battery? I am, going to change it next trip. I'd rather change it when I decide than wait for it to crap out.

Yes still on the original battery. When your brake to start sensor starts going bad, I have the best fix for it. You will know it when you have to push all the way down with a little force to get it to start. They will all do it eventually.

My friend just had that (brake to start sensor) issue. Part was cheap on Amazon, like about 70% cheaper than dealership price. Is that your fix?

How about this one, shift lever really hard to move. Never been an issue at all. About a month ago I had to put it away really wet and muddy. Next time I went hunting and went to back out of my cargo trailer, lever was tight, real tight. Stayed that way a few hours then loosened up to operate as normal. Is this a cold, wet freeze up issue?

I found a guy who makes them, or has them made, and they are about the same money as OEM but it lasts forever so says folks on the ranger forum. Your shift cable was packed in mud most likely.

You can bypass that switch easy, just like all the "safety" switches on lawn mowers.

Yes but it has a pretty advanced computer for a UTV. Lights going haywire is the most common issue with bypassing it.

I’m sure that’s the same guy I bought ours from, the factory switches lasted about a year before going to crap and his is still going strong.

If the belt deflection gets off to much they become hard to shift, a new belt will generally remedy the situation unless the clutch sheave gets worn from slipping a belt and then it has to be shimmed or replaced normally so if it becomes a common occurrence this is the remedy more than likely however the shoes inside the clutch can stick causing this to but generally this is a temporary problem that self corrects Itself after some use.

He sells them on a FB business page and a couple of months ago he was working on finalizing his own website.

I found a guy who makes them, or has them made, and they are about the same money as OEM but it lasts forever so says folks on the ranger forum. Your shift cable was packed in mud most likely. [/quote]

I’m sure that’s the same guy I bought ours from, the factory switches lasted about a year before going to crap and his is still going strong.[/quote]

He sells them on a FB business page and a couple of months ago he was working on finalizing his own website.[/quote]

I bought them from him off the Polaris forum, solid product and they’ve worked flawless compared to the half dozen Polaris has covered under warranty. I finally got tired of dealing with them and ordered these. The only 2 machines that don’t currently have them have new ones in the toolbox ready to go on as soon as they mess up

I’m sure that’s the same guy I bought ours from, the factory switches lasted about a year before going to crap and his is still going strong.[/quote]

He sells them on a FB business page and a couple of months ago he was working on finalizing his own website.[/quote]

I bought them from him off the Polaris forum, solid product and they’ve worked flawless compared to the half dozen Polaris has covered under warranty. I finally got tired of dealing with them and ordered these. The only 2 machines that don’t currently have them have new ones in the toolbox ready to go on as soon as they mess up [/quote]


Toxic-21 Motorsports
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Thanks. Bringing my machine home in a few weeks for after season clean up and some maintenance. Battery, and now this brake pressure switch. How much was it?

I think 80 bucks or so, shipping included. One and done though. The OEM’s are crap shoot and I need mine to work every day. Yours might never need it, and it slowly goes out, so you could always wait and see but I need mine to work every day.

I am said friend that had the brake pressure switch problem. Polaris dealership wanted $115ish for an OEM. I found one on Amazon for less than $20. FULL DISCLOURE, cheaper isn't always better, and it's only been on for a couple weeks so I can't speak to its durability yet. If it goes out soon, I will definitely reach out and try your buddies part!!

Side note, if you do replace the pressure switch, go ahead and get three more of the washers-grommets that go with it. Part No. 5413212.. $10 a pop could probably be found on Amazon cheaper as well.

Good luck with the Amazon one, They don’t have a a good reputation on the forums. If it starts going out, the one I posted in the link has a reputation for lasting forever. They are so hit or miss, yours might last too though.

Maybe I got lucky, out of the three involved in this discussion with 2021 identical machines I have no issues. Matter of time I suppose.