TxAg, I don't think code will allow water and electric in same trench. In fact there probably a code distance between them.
If any thing would happen to either you would not want to dig in same trench to repair. Electric and water don't mix.

Thanks Dalroo, appreciate it. Did you run your direct burial wire and PEX water lines in the same trench? Any concerns there? Also, how many amps did you run to the building? I've got a similar run, looks like it will take some mighty big wire for the voltage drop.

Thanks Dalroo, appreciate it. Did you run your direct burial wire and PEX water lines in the same trench? Any concerns there? Also, how many amps did you run to the building? I've got a similar run, looks like it will take some mighty big wire for the voltage drop.

Thanks Lazyman. Very helpful.

Do you have similar "rules of thumb" for rough-in plumbing and electrical?

TxAg, I don't think code will allow water and electric in same trench. In fact there probably a code distance between them.
If any thing would happen to either you would not want to dig in same trench to repair. Electric and water don't mix.

Only 300' won't drop much voltage. I would not sweat it.

I did not run in same trench - agree, not good practice, but in my case it was more about meter locations. The electric trench to pole was a bit shorter and I used 4/0-4/0-2/0 aluminum if memory serves. We brought (electrician hired since tying into service) 300 amp box off meter at pole, then I tied in a 200 amp box inside barn. No real reason other than I had access to a free 200 amp box that my dad had left from another project. Also nice have an extra 100 amps at pole if I want to do another project. Wire was about $1.50 a foot at Locke at the time.

I will add, to start, I went pretty cheap on inside wiring. Just 3 breakers and wiring for a couple of switches, 2 floods on either side of shop, and 6 duplex receptacles. I also brought out a 30 amp outlet for travel trailer.

The other trench had to run to water meter near my front gate. I did the plumbing myself, first time working with pex crimp, and easy as can be. I ran 3/4" blue to a frost free hydrant, then 1/2" into barn. No problem with pressure fall off, and even after we added apartment with tankless and full shower, no worries.

Just a thought, in my case, we kept TT inside to use as living quarters until apartment completed. When we had original shell built, in addition to water and electric rough in, I also had a clean out to septic placed inside and capped. We could then drain black/gray water directly into septic and now I also have access should I ever want to add a bath or laundry room in shop area.

My prices are more for a regular house build....Metal building could be a little cheaper I would think...

My plumber normally charges around 1000.00 per fixture...For him fixtures are water heater, each toilet (if shower is right next to toilet it's included but if across room it's another fixture), each bathroom sink, kitchen sink fridge dishwasher disposal is considered one together.....If there is an island sink or another sink across the room in a big kitchen that's another fixture..That includes slab rough in, frame rough in and installing all fixtures at the end...He will usually throw in the cheaper toilets with that price also...

Electrical will normally run between 5-7 a square foot depending on how many plugs 3 ways under counter lights etc...That usually won't include any trenching unless it's very little...