If it has creep they probably do. But being one who is sometimes susceptible to flinching, I prefer a light, single stage trigger with zero creep. That way, there is nothing going through my mind that in any way reminds me to anticipate the shot going off.

But when shooting a rifle with creep, the two stage trigger squeeze seems to make a lot of sense.

FiremanJG helped me quit the trigger slapping. Didn't affect my accuracy but took me totally out of my sight picture. Not good to make sure you watch the animal upon bullet impact. Not good shooting steel when you need to know POI to adjust for wind and elevation.

I notice creep a lot when I am bench shooting. I can’t stand any and will replace a trigger that has any if I target shoot with it. However when I am hunting I never notice any creep at all. Even in triggers that I know have a good bit of creep. So I quest the bottom line is that if a trigger has some creep and I use it for hunting only, I don’t really worry about it.

I'm pretty sure alot of novice shooterz have bad practice on the trigga. Seen it with release aids and triggers on powder burners. I know a chick that is doing a better job of over coming the close her eyes when she shoots situation. It took some preachin and practice. If nobody steps in and helps, they will just keep doing their norm. Which can be horrible.

I bought a cheap Savage Axis, 6.5 Creedmoor. Diddled with the trigger and now have it at 2#. Lightest trigger pull of any rifle in my safe.
In my case, the lightweight trigger pull is taking some practice. I have learned to keep my finger AWAY from the trigger until the crosshairs are locked on the target.
If you have never tried a truly light trigger pull weight, you might be disappointed with your results...

I think my Tikka trigger is around 2-2.5 lbs with no creep and it's perfect for me. I'd want it lighter for benchrest shooting. For weekend target shooting and steel pinging, it's perfect.

My Ruger AR 556 trigger is atrocious, on the other hand.

I think its been covered. Follow through is important so you don't jerk your gun and affect bullet flight in anyway, similar to foolow thru with a bow, or a basketball shot, or a golf swing, or a throw...

My triggers are set to give a ever so slight travel/creep but break crisp. I didn't have to mess with the trigger on my Cooper, but I re did the trigger on my savage .243 (timney), and dropped a two stage (Giselle SSA-E) in my AR. The AR is used for hunting pigs and coyotes a lot, and the two stage helps when I am timing shots with other people (can gather up the first stage and be right on the second stage for a crisp fire) but also allows for some safety when stalking or walking in. I love a trigger right around 2-3lbs and that is right where all my triggers are, although the AR second stage is sub 2# but the overall is a bit over 3#. Not hardly a big deal when shooting moving targets as there is such little slop in the trigger compared to the stock 6-8# slapstick...

I need to do some trigger jobs on my pistols tho, haven't gone there yet and they aren't pretty. But they still shoot pretty well due to proper trigger pull and being good weapons.

I have toyed with this approach and found it to work very well, especially with triggers that have some creep. Another way of looking it is to say you're priming the finger muscles and then breaking the trigger with a secondary squeeze that breaks straight thru any creep without any notice of it.

However, it does seem to worst best on triggers that have higher weight to them so that the "wall" of the trigger is deeper into the squeeze.