I need to buy a tap for the size I already drilled it to. I hope there’s enough left to make it work.

Could I fill the case with jb weld, let it cure. Drill the jb weld. Tap it. And then get the case out?

Now I see what Jeh7mmmag was saying at first.

Thanks:)

Can I use jbweld instead of epoxy. I have a 5” all thread rod and some jbweld already. Just jb weld the rod into the case and let it dry. Then tighten the case out.

Mink oil outside, Motor Mica inside the case neck.
(Got that little recipie from a member here.)

Smooth as butter, no stuck cases.

Did you get it out?

I haven’t had time yet. Once I try I’ll let y’all know:)

I’m going to try the JBWeld and all thread rod.

Tonight I put jbweld in the case and the rod. I’m going to let it cure for two days. Then Friday I’ll try to get it out.

Mathman I had a 45-90 case separate on me when shooting the nationals one year. Head came out, the rest stayed in the chamber. I tried a lot of things to get it out, but in the end your method was the one that worked. Once the JBWeld cured, it was a simple pop of the cleaning rod and it came right out.

It happened on the first day second relay.

Woohoo!!! Super easy!!!

Good news.

Is that nickel cases? I don’t like them and they seem more difficult to resize and have been told the nickel can flake off.

+10,000!!!!

I don't reload nickel cases. So, with a lack of lube and that it's nickel, it's a double whammy. Plus, when (not if, but when), the nickel cracks and/or flacks off, it will scratch your dies. Once your dies are scratched, every case after that will also be scratched.

I have done a few reload projects for people with nickel cases. I buy a die just for them in the cost of the project.

Thanks. It’s what I had. Next time I buy ammo I’ll buy brass. I had no idea about the issues with nickel.

Plus, nickel has much less internal case volume than regular brass cases. So, if book max is, say, 45 grains, your max in a nickel case should be about 1 to 1.5 grains less than that. I always reduce the load when loading nickel. Plus, nickel is really rough, and likes to scratch the bullet as you seat it. I'll chamfer the case mouth, but you can feel how rough the material is when chamfering the mouths. I don't like reloading nickel cases at all.

And use all the same head stamp brass, if you want consistent ammo. A mix bag of brass will have different internal case volumes and different neck thicknesses, which will cause various pressures and effect the load. If you just want the ammo to go bang, then you can load any brass you want. If you want to reload to dial in your ammo to your rifle and make good shooing ammo, keep everything the same. The name of the game for good ammo is consistency.