I'm sure you guys have seen videos of the DIY annealers but if not,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e862MYQUj-Q

For a guy who doesn't shoot thousands of rounds a year, is this a good option? I could build this for about $80, that's the equivalent of sending 500 cases to an annealing service provider. Seems like a good idea to me, but you know how those can turn out.

Go for it!

One thing I would recommend is using a 20 pound cylinder and install an in-line regulator for the flame.

I did my own not hard at all. I still use the 1 lb bottle but once I run out of bottles I will think about switching to the 20 lb.

I anneal my cases on the back of my tail gate with a propane torch. 6.5 to 7 seconds will do it, if you do it right. $30-$40 for the torch, and a cordless drill with the right size case holder, and done. But, when I have a lot to do for a customer, I pay to use a good friends Giraurd.

What is more important in the annealing process, how long they are heated? How consistently long you heat them? Can you overdo it easily? If you just get them hot but not hot enough will it damage the cases or worsen your situation?

The idea is to get the neck temperature up to about 750 F as quickly as possible so that you don't heat the case head to the point of softening it. Brass anneals nearly instantly at that temperature. Lower temps will do it, but take way too much time.

This has me thinking too because I already have everything to do it this way. If my drill will accept my shell holder. Even if it doesn't, I can get another one and JB Weld a steel dowel to it. How do you know when you've reached the right temp?

Tempilaq

I hear that stuff is a huge PITA.

Turn the lights off, soak it until the brass has some orange, don't glow it, set it to dump.

Not really, its the best indicator to get an exact temperature. A 450 degree paint down the sides of a case from the shoulder to the base will work for me. I also put a 700 degree inside the necks of about 2 or 3 cases with the 450 degree swipe along the shoulder to base of case, and watch till the 700 degree burns off and index it in a second, and its all good to go. If the 450 degree Templiaq turns clear about 1/3 of the way down the case, then I call it good.

Gary you don’t need a shell holder,just a deep socket that’s a little larger than the case. It will still spin the case and when done just tip it over and the case falls out, then repeat.

^^^^^^This

You guys dropping them in water, does it help at all?

According to those regarded as credible experts, quenching in water is unnecessary. I don't think you'll soften case heads unless you heat necks for way too long. I also think Tempilaq is a very good thing to have and use, but I don't see any use in using it on every case. Once you see how long it takes for the Tempilaq to change color, just keep using same that timing and go.