If that doesn't make it clear as a bell, then the other stuff will just have you chasing your tail.

And with the short bearing surface, it is starting out farther away from the lands than a similar bullet with a longer bearing surface. So the .030" jump of a 140 gr. ELD-M is going to become more of a jump with a bullet with a shorter bearing surface. In order to get that .030" back in service, the bullet has to be seated out longer. And then, when your ELD-M was fitting in the magazine, now your Cutting Edge is not. Your COAL increased, even though your bullet jump was set the same.

Come on Texasteach... live your name up a little and teach. If all you can do is say the bullet might move in the case from recoil and name some jargon from the reloading/shooting practice I'm not interested in what you have to say anyway.

What I have to say goes over your head anyway. As I stated, unless you understand the correlation of those concepts, the solution to the posed problem is not something that you would understand.

Simple terms, it is too darn long for the way the factory made things. You must then compromise to make things work. You have to design the magazine/chamber around the longer bullet to make it work as intended.

Sure. About the bearing surface, this is the part of the bullet that is making contact with the rifling, or spinning the bullet. The shorter the bearing surface, the less contact there is with the rifling to stabilize the bullet. Not only putting the actual spin on the bullet, but the alignment keeping the bullet pointed straight as it goes down the bore. The less bearing surface, the greater chance of the bullet not being straight.

Take a look at these 2 different bullets (Berger 155 grain VLD and 155.5 FULLBORE). Both are 155 grain, but are shaped very different. The 155.5 grain full bore has a full .101" less bearing surface than the 155 VLD. That's 44% less surface contact than the same 155 grain VLD. This will make the bullet more sensitive to jump and finicky on the load. I'm not saying it won't shoot well, because it does. But the design of the bullet is more aggressive. Same thing on the ogive to tip length. The nose is longer, which makes the bullet more aggressive. The 155.5 fullbore bullet is also shorter than the 155 VLD, but yet has a higher BC, longer ogive to tip length, and less bearing surface. It's because the design of the bullet is more sleek and shaped more stream lined. This increases the sensitivity of the bullet to find the right load. So if you have a rifle that is having trouble shooting good, going to a really aggressive bullet would make it more challenging to dial the load in. The thing to do would be to go to a bullet that is less aggressive and not seating depth sensitive. I'd lean towards a flat base with a shorter ogive to tip length, with factoring in the barrel's twist rate.

The CE bullets are even more aggressive than this, since they are dealing with solid copper, and not lead. Copper is less dense than lead (it's a lighter material). To make a copper bullet similar to the BC's of the lead bullets, they make them more stream lined and aggressive. This increases the bullet length, which requires more twist to stabilize. The CE bullets are certainly that. They make a good bullet from my testing in other larger calibers (.375, .408, .338). I have not played with the 6.5mm or 308 bullets, but they will be sensitive on what load or loads they like

Bearing surface:
30 Cal 155 gr VLD Target= .330"
30 Cal 155.5 gr FULLBORE Target= .229"

Nose length (ogive to tip length)
30 Cal 155 gr VLD Target= .746"
30 Cal 155.5 gr FULLBORE Target= .816"

http://www.bergerbullets.com/pdf/Quick-Reference-Sheets.pdf

It's more finicky, or more difficult to dial in.

Thanks for the time and explanation Chad.

I use my Hornady OAL just to see how far they would go in and they stopped right on the "seal Tight" band. This ensures no gasses escape as with most solid metal bullets. I'll jump up powder charges. brass is prepped and tumbling now, i'll prime them later

The bullet shank goes far into the case. sorry, wish I know more about the details of reloading. Glad I got you guys

Buzz, I'd seat that bullet out LONG!!! (If you have the magazine room)

Here we go, I did set them out a little longer, trying some of their "suggested" powders, hope I don't blow up my sweet little, tiny, weak, inaccurate rifle

Well, at least you now know to buy a Tikka next time...

The 100 or 120 gr TTSX is your friend, and easy to make run well too.

dam straight