I have a 30TI suppressor that was built by RPG some while ago. It works fine on my AAC Micro 7 in 300 BO. I tried it on a S&W MP15 in 300 BO with mixed results. I see a lot of ARs on the forum with suppressors. Do most of you guys just remove the muzzle brake and screw on a suppressor? Or do you get a custom barrel to use the suppressor with?

Yes, just remove the muzzle and screw it on. You will generally have a point of impact shift low when adding a suppressor. But it is a repeatable shift, so write down the corrections needed with and without the can, and you can change back and forth, if needed.

What were your mixed results on the S&W?

Thanks, Chad.
When I tried it on the S&W I was using supersonic loads. I would get a good group of 3, then a flyer of 6" off. Then another group of 3 or 4, then a flier- but in another offset direction. Remove the suppressor and the groups tightened back up-without fliers- albeit to a different POI. I did leave the crush ring on the barrel that came with the muzzle brake. When I purchased the suppressor long ago, the builder said something about the suppressor needed "relieved?" threading on the barrel. I assumed he meant that the threads did not continue all the way to the resting point for the suppressor on the threaded barrel. I am not near the AAC right now but I believe that there is a small, non-threaded portion below the threads on it.

Stress relieving the suppressor via heat treatment? IDK

He might have been talking about indexing the brake or suppressor. That's why the crush washer is on my AR-15. So that you can index the muzzle brake to the right position. (Solid side down and birdcage up. Controls recoil direction and keeps from blasting dirt up when on a bipod.) This is all I can think of - if the suppressor has some kind of vent hole in the body of it?

You want the suppressor threaded all the way down to flush with the barrel...take the crush ring off.

Yes.

And I've got a theory for a late shot in the group being a flier. Some of mine have done it.

Theory is, as the barrel heats up, it also becomes more flexible. That extra weight on the end exaggerates the flier that would normally be closer to the group, if the suppressor were not on the muzzle. Which is another reason, light suppressors are a good thing. Mine is not light.

Good info, all. Thanks. The suppressor is titanium so it's lighter than the steel versions. But the S&W was a lighter barrel- and surely not as stiff as the AAC.
And the suppressor isn't indexed to a particular orientation- i.e. no up or down.

When I talked to Jeremy at Silencer Shop he said some brands have a quick detach coupling, it was recommended for cans that go from one to another rifle.

I would strongly disagree with that statement. I would never buy a QD can and all my suppressors go from one gun to another regularly.

Same here. I direct thread the can onto all of the rifles. I have a 5/8" X 24 end cap, and a 1/2" X 28 end cap for the AR-15. Seen more trouble out of quick detach suppressors on my range than direct thread.

I have a Hybrid with the ASR adapter that I use on 3 of my ARs. I'm very much a fan of it, especially because it allows me to retain a useful muzzle device without having to screw it back on after I'm done running them suppressed.

I think once I finally get around to having my 6.5CM threaded, I might actually leave that one bare because I feel like the POI shift is more repeatable when the suppressor shoulders against the barrel rather than the muzzle device.

A well-designed QD system like the ASR, or even better, Dead Air's Key-Mo will give you no trouble. On the other hand, AAC's 51t mounts wear, and SiCo's Trifecta mounts launch suppressors downrange with alarming frequency. If you want QD functionality, do your research and pick a system that will give you long-term reliability.

Uncle Sam won't give me mine for about 3 more months so I have no first hand experience either way. I'm going to try the QD.

I have a Gemtec and prefer the QD. No issues so far.

My Griffin Armament cans with their taper mount quick detach don't affect accuracy at all and never loosen under fire. In fact some of the best groups I have shot have been with them on the rifle. Very consistent POI shift when taking the can on and off. I don't have experience with AAC QD systems but I have heard they are not made for precision.

IF you are looking to buy any cans take a look at Dear Air......Mounts and cans are top notch. I too have an RPG suppressor and have had to send it back 3 times and finally just had it re-cored to finally fix everything that was wrong with it.......

Remember Dead Air and you will thank me later.....

QD's are all I use and they are good if you buy them from a company that knows what they are doing. I use them on all of my guns and I switch them around all the time. QD's have came a long way from the start and like I stated earlier, Dead Air make a great one that locks up tight......